De dialectiek ligt voor de hand. Minor: Mouton Rothschild is de epitomie van Cabernet Sauvignon en Médoc. Major: Mouton 2016 bezit alle attributen van het wijnjaar in overvloed (intensiteit, evenwicht, spanning en fraîcheur). Conclusio: dit is de wijn van het jaar en een monument voor de toekomst.
Het gelaagd geheel van zwarte bessen en kersen, chocolade, exotisch kruid, zoethout, vanille en peper wordt omlijst door een perfecte tanninestructuur. Kracht en finesse verenigen in een fluwelen textuur waarvan de gratie straalt. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De Grand Vin vertegenwoordigt 53% van de totale productie.
Mouton is één van die perfecte wijnen van 2016, niet alleen voor ons, maar voor de verenigde pers: Neal Martin (98-100 “startling” “pinnacle of Pauillac 2016”), James Suckling (100 “stupendous”), Jeannie Cho Lee (99 “glorious”), Jane Anson (98 “Astonishing!”) en Antonio Galloni (98 “utterly captivating, exquisite Mouton”). Martin en Galloni vergelijken de 2016 met 1986 die tot 5 maal toe een perfecte 100 score kreeg van Parker, en aanzien wordt als één van de grootste wijnen uit de geschiedenis. Wij zijn genoodzaakt deze wijn enkel aan te bieden aan trouwe en goede klanten. Spreek ons niet aan als u zich niet herkent.
IN DE PERS
100 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Januari 2019)
The 2016 Mouton Rothschild bowled me over when I tasted it from barrel. Philippe Dhalluin compares it to the 1986 in terms of intensity of fruit, although there is more maturity and refinement in the tannins apropos of the 2016. Bottled in July 2018, this has an intense bouquet with pixelated black fruit, crushed stone, hints of blue fruit and a touch of India ink. But it is the delineation and focus that take your breath away. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannin framing the pure black currant and cassis fruit. The acidity is pitch-perfect, and there is a gentle but insistent grip toward the extraordinarily long finish. Racking my brains to think of another Mouton Rothschild that I have tasted over the last 20 years that was as good as this, I simply cannot come up with one. Drink 2030-2080.
98-100 Neal Martin – The Wine Advocate Issue #230 - robertparker.com (April 2017)
The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the latter two co-fermented, picked from 26 September and finished on 14 October. As usual, it is being matured in 100% new oak. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cold limestone and crushed violet aromas that if anything, appear to gain vigor with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, juicy tannin. There is a lot of fruit packed into this Mouton-Rothschild and therefore one can feel the weight in the mouth, yet the acidity keeps everything on tip-toes. The finish has superb precision and opulence, completing a Mouton-Rothschild that will rivet you to the spot. Tasted on two occasions, the second confirming that this is simply a magnificent wine. Whichever artist eventually designs the label is going to be drinking well. Drink: 2026-2065.
100 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Januari 2019)
A towering, thrilling wine, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild is unbelievably beautiful today. Aromatics, fruit density and vertical structure all come together. In the glass, the 2016 is remarkably vivid and powerful, and yet a gentler, more feminine side emerges with time in the glass. The intense, mineral, savory profile recalls the 1986, but the 2016 has more grace, inner sweetness and sophistication than that wine. Even so, the 2016 is going to need at least a number of years in bottle before it starts drinking well, although it won't be the bruiser the 1986 remains to this day. This is breathtaking wine from Mouton, Technical Director Philippe Dhalluin and his team. Drink 2026-2041.
95-98+ Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2017)
On first impression, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild is incredibly reminiscent of the 1986, especially in its aromatics. On the palate, the 2016 naturally reflects the more finessed personality of the year as well as 30 years of continual refinements in vineyard and cellar work. Graphite, grilled herbs, smoke, crème de cassis, bittersweet chocolate and ripe plums are some of the many flavors that flesh out in the glass in an utterly captivating, exquisite Mouton that I had to taste twice and then directly from barrel because of its pure allure. Although it is early, the 2016 Mouton is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage.
100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com (Oktober 2019)
Composed of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild has an opaque garnet-purple color. WOW—the nose explodes from the glass with powerful blackcurrant cordial, black raspberries, blueberry pie and melted chocolate notions, plus suggestions of aniseed, camphor, lifted kirsch and the faintest waft of a subtle floral perfume in the background. Full-bodied, concentrated, bold and totally seductive in the mouth, it has very fine-grained, silt-like tannins, while jam-packed with tightly wound fruit layers, finishing in this wonderful array of mineral sparks. Magic. Drink 2022-2085.
100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com (December 2018)
The 2016 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, with the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot vinified together. It has a very deep purple-black color and slowly slides out of the glass with spicy notes of Sichuan pepper, cloves and cinnamon stick giving way to a core of perfumed black fruits and florals—blackcurrant cordial, candied violets, blackberry compote, rose hips and black plums—plus suggestions of espresso, damp soil, tar and beef drippings. Medium-bodied, the palate is very firmly structured and jam-packed with latent energy about to burst, offering superbly ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the intense floral and black fruit layers and finishing very long and very minerally. Powerful, profound wine. Mouton’s congenial managing director, Philippe Dhalluin, was unfortunately in Napa while I was in Bordeaux in October, so I was hosted by Eric Tourbier—Mouton’s technical director—and Clerc-Milon’s winemaker, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy. While discussing the particularly abundant range of aroma/flavor compounds I was perceiving in the 2016 reds, Danjoy commented, “When you have a wet spring, you tend to have more aromatic precursors. Also, it was a long maturation period. The vine made a lot of aromatic components. The gap between the Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon for ripening was very long. In fact, Cabernet was very late this year. We didn’t know if the Cabernet Sauvignon was going to make it! The big surprise for us was the Cabernet Franc—all of it was delicious. We used it all in the grand vin at Clerc Milon.” When we came to taste Le Petit Mouton and Mouton Rothschild, Eric Tourbier, smiling like the cat that got the cream, said simply, “It was a dry summer. We had very small berries and a good level of ripeness.” He then added, matter-of-factly, “I’ve been at Mouton for 30 years. I think this is my best vintage. The 2016 may be compared to the 1986?” Maybe, but while I’m a huge lover of the incredibly provocative and sometimes formidable 1986 (I had it again just a few weeks ago), I’m thinking this 2016 is going to give a lot more hedonic pleasure in its first 25 years in bottle than the 1986—just coming around now—certainly did.
100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2019)
Dark ruby, purple color. Aromas of blackcurrants, black truffle, crushed stone, licorice and hints of tar. Full-bodied, deep and vertical on the palate, drawing you in and down. The structure is very tannic and powerful, yet the tannins are folded into the wine. One of the most powerful Moutons ever for me. Try after 2027.
100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2017)
This is a phenomenal, muscular red that shows incredible power and depth. Full-bodied and with great concentration of tannins but this remains agile and polished. The form to this is stupendous. Such precision and clarity. The new 1986 but better.
99 Jane Anson – decanter.com (November 2018)
98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2017)
For the 2016 vintage, Philippe Dhalluin and his team have wrought a big, rich Mouton full of seductive grilled coffee bean, slate, graphite, tight cassis and bilberry. This has depth and impact and closely approaches the 2010. Astonishing! Clearly powerful but with the beauty and flourish of Mouton. It is a long lasting wine, just stretching out endlessly in front of you. The tannins are ever present and precise with a sweetness to them and a satin edge. This is 100% new oak, but has that 2016 trick of seeming perfectly integrated already. A wine to age then sink into on some happy future date. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot (the last two were co-vinified, unusually). Drink: 2027-2050.
100 Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com (Maart 2019)
98 James Molesworth - winespectator.com (Maart 2019)
99 Jeannie Cho Lee – jeanniecholee.com (April 2017)
No. 2 in Top 10 Left Bank Bordeaux. Gorgeous, subtle, layered Mouton with delicate and detailed flavors that linger on the palate for a long time. The density of the tannins combine with wonderful freshness and layers of flavors that range from dark berries, savory spices to cedar and earth. A glorious Mouton that has stature and concentration without any heaviness. The blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cab Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The latter two varieties were co-fermented.
19/20 Jancis Robinson - jancisrobinson.com (Februari 2020)
18,5/20 Jancis Robinson – jancisrobinson.com (April 2017)
83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot picked from 26 September (Merlot) until 14 October (Cabernet Sauvignon). Exceptional crimson. Real lift and transparency. Quite a soaring dry style with great texture and refreshment. Very strong style statement. Infusion of Cabernet. A sort of amalgam of cassis and tar in that very Mouton way but with 21st-century lift and transparency. Quite brave in a way. Bone dry and utterly embryonic compared with most of the 2016s (with the notable exception of Las Cases). Drink: 2030-2055.
95 Tim Atkin – timatkin.com (April 2017)
Aged in 100% new oak, this is a bold, dense and very serious Mouton that will reward long cellaring. Toasty, rich and very concentrated with lashings of dark berry fruit and crème de cassis, some Asian spices and plenty of backbone and acidity. 2028-40
98-99 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2017)
19-20/20 Revue des Vins de France (April 2017)
100 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2017)
18-20/20 Gault & Millau (April 2017)
Mouton RothschildMouton werd Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1973 dank zij de niet aflatende inzet van baron Philippe de Rothschild, een stijlvol en gecultiveerd man. Vijftig jaar deed hij erover. In 1922 kocht hij het Château van de familie. In 1924 lanceerde hij samen met Margaux de “Mise au Château” gevolgd door de bouw van de Grand Chai in 1926. In 1933 kocht hij het naburige d’Armailhac.
Mouton kan perfect zijn zoals in 1945, 1959, 1982 of 1986. Haut Brion lijkt dan lichter, Margaux misschien minder compleet, Latour te intens en Lafite strenger… Maar soms is het ook een stuk minder fraai zoals 1990 en zeker tijdens de povere, schralere jaren 1970. De redenen voor het succes van Mouton zijn nochtans veelvuldig: er waren de flamboyante persoonlijkheden van Philippe de Rothschild en zijn dochter Philippine, er is zijn opulentie in de grote wijnjaren dat contrasteert met het austere Lafite of het gespierde Latour, en er is het kunstig etiket dat van Mouton een collector’s item maakt. Vandaag staat Mouton er weer: na de perfecte parkerscores voor 1945, 1959, 1982 en 1986, zijn 2005 en 2009 nieuwe referenties.
Het opzet van Baron Philippe de Rothschild was om van wijn kunst te maken. Dit symboliseerde hij vanaf 1945 met het etiket, dat elk jaar door een andere kunstenaar werd ontworpen, Picasso, Warhol of Prince Charles om er maar een paar te noemen. Mouton huist bovendien een “Musée du Vin dans l’Art”. DhalluinWijnmaker Philippe Dalhuin zette orde op zaken op Mouton Rothschild: enkel druiven geplukt op de historische kern van de wijngaard (60% van de oppervlakte) komen nog in aanmerking voor de Grand Vin. Een nieuwe cuverie werd gebouwd om met nieuwe, kleinere cuves preciezere vinificaties te kunnen doorvoeren. Onder “druk” van buurman Pontet Canet slaat het team van Mouton met Château Clerc Millon resoluut de groene weg in. "Second je fus, Mouton ne change"? Ondertussen nam Jean Emmanuel Donjoy zijn functie over.
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