Clos Fourtet werd geplukt tussen 20 september en 4 oktober en geassembleerd met 86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon en 4% Cabernet Franc. 2017 werd een halve oogst met slechts 2.500 kistjes: 30% van de oogst ging verloren met de vorst, er was 10% minder rendement en een overige 10% werd weggeselecteerd.
We proefden Clos Fourtet op herhaalde tijdstippen en zagen de wijn als het ware vlinders in de buik krijgen. Met de lente in aantocht bloeide hij open van achter een somber, nog gebald geheel. De kleur herinnert aan purperen inkt. Rijp rood fruit op mocca en een vleugje kirsch vertonen de nodige frisheid en typische elegantie van deze Cru. Hij is intens en volmondig in zijn tanninestructuur, maar heeft de voorkeur aan lekker rijp fruit zonder het evenwicht ook maar in vraag te stellen. Bravo! We zien gelijkenissen met Canon bijvoorbeeld en dit is een compliment: het is fijn, precies, compleet en stevig. Al op middellange termijn (2022-2027?) zal deze geslaagde Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé al in zijn kaarten laten kijken.
Clos Fourtet ligt in het hart van Saint Emilion nabij Canon en is er één van de groten. De wijngaard van 19 hectare is beplant met 87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon en 3% Cabernet Franc. Doorgaans wordt 70% nieuwe eik gebruikt in het élevage. Stéphane Derenoncourt en de legendarische Jean-Claude Berrouet verlenen er advies.
IN DE PERS
93+ Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2020)
The 2017 Clos Fourtet has a refined and very pure bouquet, perhaps one that is more discrete than recent vintages with finely tuned blackberry, raspberry, cassis and mineral scents. Light violet aromas surface with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that impart a satin-like texture. This is a seamless Saint-Émilion with a plush and seductive finish of blueberry and cassis fruit. It is very primal of course, so give it several years to evolve secondary aromas and flavours. The Cuvelier family have overseen a Saint-Émilion endowed with great potential. Drink 2024-2045.
92-94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Clos Fourtet has a powerful, almost burly bouquet with upfront, quite bold blackberry, raspberry and strawberry fruit that maybe miss the precision of some of the appellation’s more elegant offerings. There is just a touch of cassis and violet that emerges with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, more rounded in texture than its peers. There is impressive volume towards the finish that is uncommon in this vintage, but you have to just stand back and admire its persistence. Drink 2023-2045.
96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Maart 2020)
The 2017 Clos Fourtet is vivid, rich and super-expressive. Beams of salinity give the 2017 its energy and shape. In the glass, the 2017 is wonderfully vivid and nuanced. Lavender, mint, blue fruits and blood orange all build into the beautifully layered, exquisite finish. In 2017, Clos Fourtet is all class. This is a terrific showing from the Cuvelier family. Tasted three times. Drink 2025-2047.
92-95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Clos Fourtet is very good, but also very tightly wound. Powerful and tannic, the 2017 is likely to require many years to come in its own. Today, the 2017 is certainly less charming than some recent vintages and other 2017 Saint-Émilions. There is certainly no lack of depth or concentration. The dark red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal and lavender flavors are very nicely delineated. Clos Fourtet is one of the wines that improved over the two weeks I followed it. I won't be surprised if it is even better from bottle.
94 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2018)
Good quality with depth of complexity and layers. An excellent Clos Fourtet that really lives up to the success of recent vintages, if not quite at the level of its 2015 and 2016. Damson, dark chocolate and saline notes are bolstered by extremely dark fruits that have the juice to carry them through the mid-palate, the oak supporting rather than overwhelming. There's a slight austerity and savoury edge to the fruit that speaks of 2017, but this is easily hitting the heights of St-Émilion in this vintage. Drink 2025-2038.
93+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (Maart 2020)
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Clos Fourtet is profoundly scented of baked blackberries, plum preserves, mulberries and kirsch with hints of cedar chest, iron ore and tapenade plus a waft of smoked meats. Medium-bodied, the palate is laden with earthy/savory nuances, supported by finely grained tannins and loads of freshness, finishing long and earthy. The blend is 90% Merlot,7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Franc. It was aged for 16 months in french oak barrels, 60% new. Drink 2021-2041.
92-94 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (April 2018)
Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Clos Fourtet is scented of crème de cassis, blueberry compote and plum preserves with touches of hoisin, truffles and dark chocolate plus a waft of anise. Medium to full-bodied, the generous fruit is plushly textured with great freshness, finishing long and spicy.
94-95 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2018)
A very sexy young wine with a solid center palate and refined, integrated tannins. Medium body. Everything is in the right place.
16/20 Julia Harding MW – jancisrobinson.com (April 2018)
Black core with purple rim. Sweet and a little charry on the nose. A little less fruit on the palate than I expected from the aroma. Tannins are chalky but hold a firm grip and this needs time. But there's fruit at the core. Drink 2024-2030.
94-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2018)
This incredible terroir located just outside the village of Saint-Emilion has turned out a spectacular 2017 that has more richness and texture than most in the vintage. A rough blend of 86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, brought up in 60% new barrels, the 2017 Clos Fourtet offers a deep, saturated purple color to go with a huge nose of pure red and black fruits, bouquet garni, crushed rocks, and spice box. With medium to full-bodied richness, terrific sweetness and depth of fruit, ripe tannin, and a big finish, it’s a gem in the vintage and a no-brainer purchase. Tasted twice.
94 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr (April 2018)
94-95 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (Maart 2018)
Intense, with blackberry, cassis and boysenberry puree notes racing through, inlaid with subtle anise and black tea details. Offers a gorgeous feel, with a long, fine-grained chalky spine buried on the finish. A beauty.
17-18 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2018)
Clos FourtetOp de westelijke vestingen van Saint Emilion kijkt Clos Fourtet uit op een uniek terroir van 19,66 hectare “argilo-calcaire” beplant met 87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon en 3% Cabernet Franc (in double cordon de Royat) op een densiteit van 6.000 tot 9.000 wijnstokken per hectare. De wijngaard is gemiddeld 27 jaar. Een dunne laag klei op diepe kalkgronden is de basis van de glore van Clos Fourtet. De élevage gebeurt er in ondergrondse kelders die zich over 12 hectare uitstrekken. Zeker in de laatste wijnjaren is Clos Fourtet één van de meest betrouwbare en meest performante producenten van Saint Emilion. Aan de wieg staan de eigenaars Philippe en Matthieu Cuvelier en de consulenten Stéphane Derenoncourt en Jean-Claude Berrouet, de levende legende.
CuvelierPhilippe Cuvelier kocht het befaamde Clos Fourtet in 2001. Samen met zijn zoon Matthieu kocht hij ondertussen Poujeaux in Moulis, maar ook Grandes Murailles en Côte de Baleau in Saint Emilion. Ze bezitten in minderheidsaandeel in Clos Saint Martin. | |
