Slechts 18 van de 82 hectare kampten met vorst. 37% van de oogst wordt Grand Vin en bestaat uit 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. Pavillon Rouge (22% van de oogst) leed het meest onder de vorst. 15% van de oogst gaat naar de derde wijn en de overige 26% wordt in bulk verkocht. De kleur is relatief licht robijnrood. De geparfumeerde neus spreidt rozen, viooltjes, bloedsinaas en cassis ten toon. Château Margaux 2017 is opmerkelijk toegankelijk met een verfijnde tanninestructuur en zijdezachte textuur. Een mooie, klasssieke Château Margaux.
IN DE PERS
93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Margaux, matured in 100% new oak, was blended in the second half of February. It has a very pure, floral bouquet with scents of iris and violet infusing the black and subtle blue fruit. There are touches of crushed stone and with aeration, a little candied orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, very harmonious in the mouth, caressing and sensual with black fruit, hints of graphite and a light marine influence. There is a fine build to this Château Margaux, commencing almost understated but finishing with an insistent grip and a long, quite spicy aftertaste. It's not the bewitching 2015 however, it purrs like a Rolls Royce and will age with panache. Drink 2023-2045.
94-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Margaux is one of the highlights on the Left Bank. Surprisingly powerful and virile, the Grand Vin clearly reflects the influence of a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Beams of tannin give the wine support through the mid-palate and into the finish. Estate Manager Sebastian Vergne told me the winemaking team opted to raise temperatures at the end of fermentation to gain a bit more color, depth and polymerization of tannins. The Grand Vin represents 37% of the estate's production.
96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2018)
Wow! This makes the whole room smile. The stunning nose hits you right off the bat, followed by wonderful fleshy damson fruit. This has some of the best aromatics in the business this year and a wonderful creamy texture through the palate. There's great density, and the tannins flatter it but they have menace and intent too, pulling the structure inwards and bouncing along to finish beautifully. This is more opulent than the Pavillon, which has some clear austerity, and the scale of the fruit is a little fresher than the 2015, with around the same ripeness level as the 2016. The 3.7pH is a little higher than the last two years, while an IPT of 73 is the same as last year. 37% of production went into the grand vin, including a 1% drop of Petit Verdot. Drink 2027-2040.
96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (April 2018)
A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Château Margaux charges from the gate with opulent kirsch, raspberry preserves, wild blueberries and cassis notions accented by roses, violets, Chinese five spice and fragrant earth with touches of underbrush and truffles. Medium-bodied, it fills the mouth with vibrant, ripe red and blue fruits, layering in perfume and spice nuances. It's framed by very finely grained and plush yet firm tannins and great tension, finishing with epic length.
97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2018)
This is a very dense Margaux, and especially for the vintage, with a full body, grainy tannins and a long and rich finish. Impressive depth of fruit and structure. Luscious and muscular at the same time.
17,5/20 Julia Harding MW – jancisrobinson.com (April 2018)
Deep glowing crimson. Pure, very dark cassis fruit. Fragrant and lightly floral too. And the fruit smells sweet, the oak so subtle. Intense without being flamboyant. Firm, smooth, chocolate-textured. Creamy and rich and supple on the long finish. Depth of fruit, both red and black on the mid palate. Well sustained.The tannins are powerful but hidden by the lovely fruit. Succulent even though well structured. Drink 2027-2042.
95-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2018)
Compared to 1996 by winemaker Philippe Bascaules and from only 37% of the total production, the 2017 Château Margaux is unquestionably in the top 2 to 3 wines of the vintage, and it’s certainly the wine of the vintage in Margaux. Boasting a deep purple color as well as an awesome bouquet of cassis, blueberries, smoked herbs, graphite, and crushed flower, it builds incrementally on the palate and is full-bodied, multi-dimensional, and layered. It has surprising ripeness, yet like all the wines from this estate, it stays vibrant and fresh, with plenty of tannin. While most Margaux in 2017 seem to have a charming upfront style, this backward, concentrated beauty will need at least 5-6 years or bottle age.
96 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr (April 2018)
18,5-19/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2018)
95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2018) Château MargauxChâteau Margaux is het meest aristocratisch wijndomein van Bordeaux en één van de oorspronkelijke Premiers Grands Crus Classés en 1855.
Ondanks een prachtig wijnjaar 1953, haalde Margaux gedurende meerdere decennia niet het kwaliteitsniveau en de reputatie die het opgebouwd had in zijn eerste “âge d’or” op het einde van de de XIXde Eeuw. Pas toen de André Mentzelopoulos eigenaar werd in 1977, en na de aanstelling van Paul Pontallier als directeur in 1983, keerde het lot. Sindsdien is Margaux misschien wel de meest regelmatige Premier. De wijnen maken indruk zonder evenwel het DNA van finesse en elegantie te verdringen. Ze zijn briljant, gratievol, rijkelijk en complex. Zeker in de jaren 1980 was er geen betere Bordeaux dan Château Margaux. In de wijnjaren 1900, 1990 en 2000 werden perfecte parkerscores behaald. Margaux is één van de mooiste bouwwerken van Bordeaux. Het dateert van het begin van de XIXde Eeuw. Twee honderd jaar later leidt de wereldbefaamde architect Sit Norman Foster een ingrijpende maar respectvolle renovatie.
Pavillon Rouge is de tweede wijn. Daarnaast maakt Château Margaux ook een droge witte wijn, Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux, een 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Vroeger werd deze droge witte wijn gemaakt in het aparte Château Abel-Laurent enkele honderden meters verderop. Voortaan zal hij gemaakt worden op Château Margaux. De kans bestaat dat Pavillon Blanc binnenkort Château Margaux Blanc wordt... | |
