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 | 2018 Ch. Clerc Milon - Pauillac GCC | € 77,50 (€ 93,78) |
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De beste Clerc Milon ooit? Dit leek de meest opvallende wijn binnen de Mouton-stal. De wijngaard leed minder onder mildiou en stress hydrique dan Mouton of d’Armailhac. Na een kriekerode impressie, toont de tongval majestueuze ampleur. Het evenwicht in milieu de bouche is perfect en de frisse zuiverheid van het krokante fruit voorbeeldig. Deze Pauillac proeven is een privilege. Het is een zilveren Mercedes van een wijn: betrouwbaar en degelijk, maar geen taxi, eentje met Flugelturen die de Nürburgring op kan. Volgend jaar verhuist régisseur Jean-Emmanuel Danjou naar Mouton Rothschild. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot en 1% Carmenere. 14,2%vol. IN DE PERS 93 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Clerc Milon is showing beautifully today. Gorgeous savory notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon open first, showing the modern direction of Clerc Milon towards a more Cabernet focused wine. Dried flowers, menthol, licorice, graphite and black cherry are all laced together effortlessly. The tannins have settled down a bit since en primeur, which is a very good sign for the future. Drink 2024-2043. 91-93 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Clerc Milon is laced with generous dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and gravel, all of which give the wine its distinct aromatic inflections. Powerful and tannic, the 2018 is going to need at least a few years to come into its own, but it is quite promising. The Cabernet Sauvignon is particularly expressive at this stage. Clerc Milon is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère. 95-96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) Very generous and dense with layers of gorgeous blackberries and blueberries. Full-bodied and so layered with fantastic tannin backbone at the same time. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) The progression of this property continues to be evident in the glass with a beautiful classicism, full of life and layers comprising dark spice and touches of black pepper against blueberry and cool fruits, pumped up by black chocolate and liquorice. It’s confident and clearly has a fierce quality to the tannins giving a long life ahead of it. The harvest started on September 17, one week later than Mouton because of its cooler terroir, with the blend completed by 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmanère. This is the last vintage with Jean-Emmanuel Donjoy at the helm as he’s making his way over to Mouton-Rothschild to work alongside Philippe Dhalluin. A tough gig to turn down of course, but I will miss the work he has done here and look forward to seeing what his successor will add. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040 94+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Clerc Milon is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carménère. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it has a very pure, beautifully delineated nose of crushed blackcurrants, fresh black plums and boysenberries with hints of wild thyme, damp soil, tar and black olives. The medium to full-bodied palate offers taut, muscular black fruit with loads of savory layers and a firm, grainy texture, finishing long and mineral tinged. Drink 2023-2039. 93-95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Clerc Milon is composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carménère. Grapes were harvested a bit later here than at Mouton, from September 17 to October 10. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with bold scents of warm cassis, blackberry compote and dark chocolate with hints of Morello cherries, baking spices and dried roses plus a waft of underbrush. It has a wonderfully rich, confidently sensuous palate with plenty of spicy layers and a velvety texture, finishing long and perfumed. This should age incredibly. 92-94 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) Beautiful, with a thrilling freshness and purity, especially in its tannins, the 2018 Château Clerc Milon is full-bodied, concentrated, and layered on the palate, with ample fruit and texture paired with terrific overall balance. Loaded with dark, smoky red and black fruits, graphite, cedar, and tobacco, it's an elegant yet powerful wine. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot and Carménère, all aged in 50% new oak. 17/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère; 50% new oak. Barrel sample. Very dark cherry colour. Beautifully aromatic – not just pure black fruit but tea leaf and a touch floral. Silky and fresh, elegant in its texture. Juicy and fresh on the finish and much more open than the Armailhac just tasted, the tannins not as thick. (JH) 14.1% Drink 2028-2038 92 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Clerc Milon has a nicely detailed bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, light cassis and iodine aromas gently unfurling from the glass, the new oak neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with graphite-infused black fruit. Quite a strict and linear Clerc Milon, it is classic Pauillac from start to finish. The pencil-lead-tinged, quite sinewy finish lingers wonderfully. Give this 3–4 years in bottle and then serve with a simple meat dish. Drink 2024-2045. 91-93 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Clerc Milon has an open, generous bouquet of black cherries with hints of cassis and iodine, strangely reminding me of its sibling d’Armailhac. It shows good delineation and the 53% new oak is neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. This is a dense, grippy wine, one that I suspect will require more bottle age than recent vintages, and there is a pleasant saline aftertaste that completes this very endearing Clerc Milon. Very fine. Drink 2023-2045. 17/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 95-96 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 93-95 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 16,5-17,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 94-96 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) Clerc MilonClerc Milon is een Cinquième Grand Cru Classé en 1855 en behoort toe aan Mouton Rothschild sinds 1970. De wijngaard van 40 hectare grenst aan Mouton en Lafite in Pauillac en is beplant met 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot en 1% Cabernet Franc. In 2007 werd de cuvier volledig vernieuwd met oog voor duurzaamheid. Het zijn heerlijke wijnen waarvan de neus dikwijls herinnert aan zwarte olijfjes. De recente wijnen van Clerc Millon worden gemaakt door een gedreven team met Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy aan het hoofd en zijn van hoog niveau. DhalluinWijnmaker Philippe Dalhuin zette orde op zaken op Mouton Rothschild: enkel druiven geplukt op de historische kern van de wijngaard (60% van de oppervlakte) komen nog in aanmerking voor de Grand Vin. Een nieuwe cuverie werd gebouwd om met nieuwe, kleinere cuves preciezere vinificaties te kunnen doorvoeren. Onder “druk” van buurman Pontet Canet slaat het team van Mouton met Château Clerc Millon resoluut de groene weg in. "Second je fus, Mouton ne change"? Ondertussen nam Jean Emmanuel Donjoy zijn functie over. |