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 | 2018 Ch. Canon - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 135,00 (€ 163,35) |
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Stel: u koopt maar één wijn dit jaar. Toegegeven, dit is een bizar idee en we raden dit gevaarlijk gedrag af. Maar soit: dan is het waarschijnlijk Canon. De neus is Chanel geparfumeerd met moccha, zoete kersjes et ceterae. Canon verovert het palet met aplomb: vers fruit, gesneden met fraîcheur, rolt opulent over de tong. Hij is superlatief in elk opzicht met verfijnde tannines, fluwelen structuur en glanzend fruit. Gechocolateerd. De cremeuze epiloog is spannend en floraal dank zij, weer eens, die hemelse fraîcheur. Lang hoeft u niet op Canon te wachten (hij is nu al zijdezacht), maar dat hij zal bewaren en nog openbloeien. 72% Merlot en 28% Cabernet Franc. De oogst vond plaats tussen 7 en 27 september voor de Merlot, en tussen 2 en 5 oktober voor de Cabernet Franc. We noteren een flink rendement van 42hl/ha. De druiven werden tweemaal gesorteerd: eens voor, en eens na éraflage. Daarop volgde koude maceratie op 8°C gedurende 72 uur, cuvaison over 28 dagen en malo-lactische gisting op barrique. 18 maand élevage op 52% nieuwe eik, 48% op vaten van een jaar. De tonneliers zijn Darnajou, Saint Martin, Sylvain, Nadalié, Taransaud, Quintessence en Demptos. 14%vol. pH 3,66. De steroenoloog van het moment, Thomas Duclos, werkt mee. IN DE PERS 96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Canon was picked starting on September 7 and finishing on October 9. Given a two-hour decant, it reveals a surprisingly precocious bouquet, more exuberant than I recall from barrel, offering predominantly black fruit, though the floral element is now amplified and masks the crushed limestone I observed previously (for how long?) The palate delivers multilayered black cherry and blueberry fruit, wrapped up in supple tannins and such a cashmere texture that it feels deceptively approachable when in truth, it has the substance and persistence to merit long-term aging. I wagered that it is the best Canon since the watershed 2015. Don’t expect me to alter that view. Drink 2024-2055. 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Canon was picked from 7 September and finished 9 October. It has an immediate bouquet with intense black fruit, crushed limestone, pressed iris flower and a soupçon of crème de cassis. It retains the freshness and delineation one seeks from this Saint-Émilion. The palate is beautifully textured on the entry: velvety tannin, fine acidity, a wine that evokes that oft used "iron fist in a velvet glove" phrase. It fans out wonderfully on the finish. This is a deeply impressive Canon that might be the best since the 2015. Brilliant. Drink 2024-2055. 98 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It is another magnificent effort from Technical Director Nicolas Audebert and his team. Drink 2028-2068. 94-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Canon bristles with energy, tension and explosive, vertical lift. Dark, powerful and full of personality, Canon is magnificent in 2018. Time in the glass brings out a range of dark fruit, mineral, floral and saline notes, but readers will have to be patient in order to enjoy the 2018 at its fullest splendor. Most importantly, I am blown away by how much precision and persistence there is given the wine's concentration and overall richness. The 2018 Canon is magnificent. That's pretty much all there is to it. The blend is 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon. Technical Director Nicolas Audebert added that he and his team left more leaf cover to protect the fruit from the extreme heat and dryness of the summer. Once in the cellar, extractions were done as gently as possible, Audebert explained. Tasted four times. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) This is a dense and focused Canon with beautiful blackberry, almond and hazelnut character. Vivid and lifted. It’s compact and complete with tannins that melt into the center palate and then build at the end. Full-bodied yet reserved and driven. A superb and focused wine. Classy all the way. New 1955? 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Februari 2021) 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) Pretty closed up right now, this is full of latent energy. It's extremely powerful and precise, with poise and tension but also with generosity and density, yet it errs on the side of not giving much away rather than giving too much. You have to give it time in the glass for those cool blueberry, bilberry and tightly spiced notes to come to the fore. The stunning texture is clear but the aromatics take their time. This is a wine that carries its finesse with great skill, and they have done a brilliant job of allowing this aspect to shine amongst the heat of the vintage, allowing the density to inch deeper with every minute in the glass. This wine just gets better and better, Harvest ran from 7 September to 9 October, the longest ever here, with no pressure of rot. 42hl/ha yield. Thomas Duclos consults. Drinking Window 2027 - 2043 97+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) A blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, the 2018 Canon has a pH of 3.69 and 14% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in color, it tumbles effortlessly out of the glass with a gorgeous perfume of candied violets, preserved plums, black cherry compote and Ceylon tea with hints of kirsch, powdered cinnamon, chocolate box and fertile loam. The medium to full-bodied palate is packed with juicy black fruit layers, supported by plush, oh-so-soft tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing long and fragrant. Drink 2025-2052. 97-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Canon is blended of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, with a pH of 3.69 and 14% alcohol. Deep purple-black in color, it comes sashaying out of the glass with glamorous notes of cinnamon stick, baked blackberries, black cherry compote and licorice plus an undercurrent of plum preserves and smoked meats and, with coaxing, reveals a lovely floral signature of candied violets and red roses. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is wonderfully soft-spoken, whispering of fragrant floral and earthy scents beneath a core of profound, mouth-coating black and blue fruits, draped in a high level of super ripe, plush tannins, finishing with amazing freshness and perfume with loads of mineral sparks emerging. 96-99 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (April 2019) Features a gorgeous core of plum and black currant fruit, deeply inlaid with tobacco notes and chalky minerality. Everything melds wonderfully through the finish, which is refined in feel. 98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (2021) 96-98+ Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) Reminding me of a slightly fresher, more focused version of the 2009, the 2018 Château Canon boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as awesome minerality in its smoked red and black fruits, graphite, cocoa, scorched earth, and spice box driven aromas and flavors. Deep, full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, and structured, this is a powerful Canon that’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for decades. The 2018 is a blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc that hit 14% natural alcohol (the pH is 3.66) and is still aging in 52% new French oak. Tasted twice. 19/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 98 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 17,5/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) Deep purple with bright rim. Lovely Cabernet Franc fragrance of stony/mineral pure black fruit, both restrained in character and yet aromatic. Juicy and fresh on the palate, full of energy and great finesse in the tannins. Dark, refined beauty with a tiny hint of dark chocolate on the finish. Great persistence and cool subtlety. So fresh and juicy, pure and precise. Lightly chalky tannins on the finish, no sign of the alcohol and the tannins have an underlying power. 'Les tannins reactifs', as technical director Nicolas Audebert calls them (I didn't know what he meant either), give a mouth-watering finish. Silky freshness and elegance. Drink 2025-2038 16-17,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 97-99 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) With delicate, cashmere tannins, the wine is lavish, opulent, fresh and loaded with ripe black fruits, licorice, smoke, plums, minerals, flowers and cherries. The wine balances perfectly with elegance and a wealth of sensuous fruits. There is length, which is what the doctor ordered as you want to enjoy as much of this for as long as possible. The wine blends 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, 14% alcohol. Picking took place September 7 to October 9, making 2018 the longest harvest in the history of the property. 18/20 Le Point (April 2019) 18+/20 Matthew Jukes – matthewjukes.com (April 2019) A very detailed Canon with super-ripe fruit but also flashes of greenness and beautiful complexity, too. The oak is under control and the length is minutes long. Concentrated and also quite closed right now, this will open beautifully over 20-30 years and I expect it to gather pace as it goes. CanonCanon is een Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé die zijn sporen verdiende in een ver verleden. De aankomst in 1996 van de broers Wertheimer werd een kantelmoment. De eigenaars van Chanel pasten Haute Couture toe: vandaag is een typische Canon extreem elegant, fijn en complex. De wijngaard werd gaandeweg uitgebreid van 20,5 tot 34 hectare (31 in productie), na de aankoop van Curé Bon la Madeleine (plateau, argilo-calcaire) en Matras (de zuid-zuidwestelijke helling en pied de côte ten Zuiden). John Kolasa en nu Nicolas Audebert zetten orde op zaken. Twintig jaar “volstond” om Canon er weer helemaal te doen “staan”. Canon is vandaag the talk of town (in Bordeaux en tot ver daarbuiten) zeker sinds de legendarische 2015, 2016 en 2018. Er werd 70% Merlot en 30% Cabernet Franc aangeplant op een densiteit tussen 6.500 en 7.200 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard was 30 jaar in 2018. De bodem bestaat uit kalk onder een dunne laag klei op het plateau en zandering klei op de helling. AudebertNicolas Audebert is een wijnmaker van formaat en een tovenaar. Hij bouwde zijn carrière uit bij Champagne Krug en Cheval des Andes in Argentinië voordat de gebroeders Wertheimer hem aanstelden als opvolger van John Kolasa sinds 2015 op Château Canon, de Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, en Château Rauzan Ségla, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé Margaux. Zijn “coup d’essai” werd een “coup de maître”: zijn magische Canon 2015 is nu al de legende ingegaan. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||