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 | 2018 Ch. Pontet Canet - Pauillac GCC | € 98,00 (€ 118,58) |
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Dark matter met een robijnrood randje… et des jambes. Dit is prachtig, alleen al voor het oog. De neus is complex met garriguette, framboos en veenbessen, zoethout en heerlijke poivre de kampot. Het soepele palet is hyper: de sensationele crescendo slaagt erin om minéralité te behouden. Dit is onwezenlijk mooi. Pontet Canet is al meer dan tien jaar biodynamisch en niet bestand tegen mildiou. Het rendement van 10hl/ha is dan ook pitluttig. We vreesden een moordende prijszetting maar kunnen weer slapen. "The greatest Pontet Canet ever" en “the new 1961” kost maar 1 eurootje meer dan de 2017 in primeur en een derde minder dan 2015, 2009 of 2010. Een no brainer. De werkwijze blijft gedetailleerd: dertig mensen sorteren de oogst met de hand. Paarden ploegen tussen de rijen. Stopcontacten werden verbannen van het productiepoces, et ceterae. 45% van de oogst krijgt een élevage in amfores, de rest is nieuwe eik. De wijngaard is aangeplant met 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. IN DE PERS 98 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) When I tasted the 2018 Pontet-Canet in barrel I described it as a "freak of nature." The 2018 is more than that, it is a freak of nature. Made from yields of just ten hectoliters per hectare, the 2018 possesses off the charts richness, phenomenal balance and head-spinning intensity. Crushed red berries, flowers, mint, cedar and rose petal saturate the palate in a Pauillac of breath-taking richness. The silkiest of tannins frame the phenomenally pure, long finish. This is a towering achievement from the Tesseron family and former Technical Director Jean-Michel Comme, who together spearheaded biodynamic farming in Bordeaux and built the present-day estate around a philosophy of non-interventionalist winemaking. In 2018, grapes were crushed solely by hand. Because of the tiny yields, the entire production was vinified in Pontet-Canet's new smaller concrete vats. All winemaking was done manually, without the aid of external temperature control or electricity. Put in another way, if Lalou Bize-Leroy made Bordeaux, it would taste like this. Drink 2028-2058. 96-99 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Pontet-Canet is a freak of nature. Dark, rich and explosive, the 2018 possesses off the charts richness and concentration, much of it coming from tiny yields of just ten hectoliters per hectare, or one third of a normal crop. The 2018 soars out of the glass with stunning aromatic intensity and depth. Black cherry, gravel, grilled herbs, leather, lavender and menthol stain the palate. Dense and hedonistically ripe, the 2018 is a stunningly beautiful wine. The grapes were crushed by hand. Because of the tiny yields, the entire production was vinified in Pontet-Canet's new smaller concrete vats. All winemaking was done manually, without the aid of external temperature control or electricity. The 2018 is aging in a combination of 55% new oak and 45% terra cotta amphora. Quite simply, I have never tasted anything like it. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) A bright and open young wine with polished and soft tannins that spread out and fold into the wine, becoming barely discernible, yet the feel and beauty of them frames the wine in a beautiful way. Love the fruit and purity. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) The concentration that comes from having yields of 12hl/ha is extremely clear - it makes it feel very Pauillac, again resembling as at Latour, a 2010 style in terms of its backbone and sense of hunkering down. The fruit quality is dark and knitted, with a creamy texture if you give it a minute to settle, an obvious tannic structure and a menthol finish that lets in some juice, bramble and hedgerow pleasures. It’s clearly impressive, although I get just the slightest touch of over-concentration with hints of prune on the finish. The small yields meant the entire process, from destemming to sorting, was done by hand (last year around 30% of the crop was treated in this way), then fermented in small 40L cement vats that had seen their first service for just part of the crop in 2017. There was huge amounts of hard work and stress to ensure that no dried grapes made it through, with no pumping over and only soft manual punch down to control extraction. This is 100% 1st wine, same as it has been here for the past three years. 55% will be aged in new oak barrel, 45% in amphoras. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040 98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Pontet-Canet is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. It was aged in 55% oak barriques and 45% amphorae. Deep garnet-purple colored, it explodes from the glass with an atomic perfume of raspberry pie, blackcurrant pastilles, rose oil and Chinese five spice, giving way to suggestions of cinnamon stick, dusty soil, pencil lead and underbrush. The rich, seductive, full-bodied palate is a hedonist's dream, delivering layer-upon-layer of black and red berry preserves with loads of fragrant accents, a beautifully firm yet plush texture and tons of freshness, finishing long with a whole firework display of exotic spices. This is pretty much out-of-the-gate delicious, but it has the backbone to evolve over three decades or more. Drink 2023-2053. 97-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Pontet-Canet is made up of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Picking began on September 24 and finished on October 5; aging is in 55% oak barriques and 45% amphorae. Very deep purple-black in color, it comes rolling sensuously out of the glass with all the opulence and seduction of Cleopatra on a carpet. It emerges with flamboyant scents of crème de cassis, preserved plums and blueberry compote, and after a few moments, it bursts with nuances of molten licorice, sandalwood, Chinese five spice, candied violets, dark chocolate and dried roses, followed by underlying earthy suggestions of fallen leaves, black truffles, underbrush and wild sage. Full-bodied, wonderfully dense, rich, impossibly layered and very, very decadent, the palate delivers all it promises on the nose, with a firm, wonderfully velvety frame and finishing with epic length, a scintillating wave of freshness and a beguiling perfume. This is one for true hedonists. 96-98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) Deeply colored, the 2018 Pontet-Canet checks in as a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot that was destemmed by hand, fermented all in concrete tanks (punch downs only) and is still aging 55% in new French oak and the balance in concrete amphoras. It's an incredibly rich, opulent, and plush Pontet-Canet that offers loads of black and blue fruits, licorice, crushed violets, and graphite aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, powerful, beautifully textured and layered, it's reminiscent of the magical 2009 with its rare mix of both hedonistic and intellectual pleasure. Unfortunately, the estate was decimated by mildew in the spring and lost a full two-thirds of their total production. 18/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 98 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 19-20/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 97-99 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) 16,5-17/20 Le Point (April 2019) 18+/20 Matthew Jukes – matthewjukes.com (April 2019) (70 Cabernet Sauvignon, 22 Merlot, 5 Cabernet Franc, 3 Petit Verdot) | 55% new oak, 45% goes in concrete tanks (the equivalent size of four casks) The perfume on this wine is like nothing I have ever encountered in Bordeaux. It is the quintessence of juiciness and concentration, but the palate quickly nips this explosion in the bud and then the flavour is seriously controlled and elegant. The main thrust of fruit is purple and decadent with more than a glimpse of heather and liquorice. They were badly affected by mildew at Pontet-Canet and because of their biodynamic rules they couldn’t not simply run out and spray what they wanted in order to prevent catastrophic damage. In addition, they had to hand sort every berry and destem everything by hand. Winemaker Jean-Michel Comme said that they had, ‘11 people for one table’! In the end they made only one third of a normal production here and yet it shows that the biodynamic path still manages to make headline-grabbing wines. With so much exuberance and theatricality, this is a mesmerising wine with a shockingly vibrant flavour. Only a light pigeage (punching-down) was used with no remontage (pumping over) at all. Jean-Michel stated that the levels of quality and concentration achieved in this wine has ‘never been seen here before’. In his opinion it is higher than 2016 and even 2010. While I appreciate that this is an extraordinary wine, I am not as excited about it as I am the aforementioned vintages, so I have given it a cautious score because I have no idea how far or for how long this elixir will develop. Pontet CanetPontet Canet zet de trend. Al tien millésimes lang staan biodynamie, harmonie met de natuur en "cette compréhension du vivant" centraal in hun gedetailleerde werkwijze. Elke wijnstok wordt piekfijn gesoigneerd "zoals een individu gewaardeerd wordt voor zijn originaliteit". Daarmee werden op Pontet Canet sommige "traditionele" ingrepen zoals de ébourgeonnage bijvoorbeeld overbodig. De voordelen zijn veelvuldig: natuurlijk lage rendementen (niet meer dan 30 hl/ha), een grotere natuurlijke weerbaarheid van de wijnstok en sneller rijpe druiven. Gaandeweg zijn trekpaarden, koeien en ezels de wijngaard gaan bevolken; elk heeft er zijn functie en nut. Minimalisme typeert de vinificatie. Alles gebeurt handmatig en electriciteit werd verbannen uit het productieproces. Een dertigtal mensen sorteert de oogst en cuves worden pomploos gevuld. Ook het élevage is baanbrekend met amfores van 900 liter. De wijngaard is aangeplant met 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De ware test is in het glas en wijnliefhebbers wereldwijd juichen. Pontet Canet kreeg perfecte parkerscores voor 2009 en 2010. TesseronVooral sinds 1994 maakte Alfred Tesseron klassieke Pauillac van hoog niveau, maar in de recentste wijnjaren overtreft hij niet alleen zichzelf, maar ook de meeste van zijn collega’s. De verbluffende jonge wijnen die hij brengt, aanvankelijk met zijn rechterhand Jean-Michel Comme, maakten van Pontet Canet misschien het meest besproken Château, in en buiten Bordeaux. Dochter Justine Tesseron is op vandaag de knappe Directeur Général, die Pontet Canet leidt samen met broer Noé en nichten Melanie en Phiippine. |