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 | 2018 Ch. Pichon Comtesse de Lalande - Pauillac GCC | € 210,00 (€ 254,10) |
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Baryton Nicolas Glumineau annonceert: "Pichon Comtesse 2018". Met zijn opera verleden is theatraliteit nooit ver weg. Hij weet van wanten: eerder maakte hij Montrose 2009 en 2010, beide 100-punters. Deze Comtesse is een machtige Aïda en mijn proefgenot een staande ovatie. Het gordijn is robijnrood. De intense neus blijft frivool met een zwarte bessen, kaneel, kruidnagel en viooltjes. De grandioze ampleur en bouche laat een myriade aan fruitaroma’s de revue passeren als een slavenstoet nabij de piramides Gizeh. Het bevallig palet is gedrapeerd. Zijdezachte tannine laat zwarte kersjes en cassis schitteren. Elk facet is excellentissime, toonvast en afgestemd. De opbouw is fenomenaal en de epiloog beklijvend. Nicolas Glumineau omschrijft "a true Pauillac, albeit in the Pichon Lalande style". Pichon Lalande is voor mij de meest gedistingueerde Médoc in 2018. De ticketprijs is stevig maar net terecht. Welkom in deze delicieuze Scala; de voorstelling kan beginnen! Het assemblage verraadt Pauillac: 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De oogst nam bijna een maand in beslag van 13 september tot 11 oktober. Het fruit werd gesorteerd per laser en een vernuftig Oscillys systeem erafleerde. De vinificatie is uiterst precies met infusion als sleutelwoord. Na 24 dagen cuvaison volgde een écoulage en barriques (60% nieuw). 14%vol. IN DE PERS 98 James Molesworth - winespectator.com (Maart 2021) Offers a deep well of dark currant, blackberry paste and plum preserves fruit that needs time to unwind fully, as it’s shrouded in warm earth, tobacco, singed cedar, sweet bay leaf and savory notes. A ramrod of graphite adds to the racy, structured feel. Best from 2030 through 2050. #2 Wine Spectator Top 100 Most Exciting Wines from 2021 Owner Frédéric Rouzaud hired Nicolas Glumineau as general director in 2012, and this famed Bordeaux second-growth has been on an upward trajectory ever since. Glumineau has overseen a replanting program, increasing the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyards and shifting steadily to organic and biodynamic farming. A cellar renovation included new, smaller vats for a more exacting, parcel-by-parcel and even intra-parcel vinification process. The results show: In 2018, the estate hit the bar set by its acclaimed ’82 and ’59 vintages with its grand vin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a blue chip built for long cellar time. 97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the start, the acidity slicing through the layers of quite plush black fruit, judiciously laced with tobacco and mint. There is a beguiling sense of harmony conveyed by this Pichon-Lalande and although there is clearly plenty of structure, the tannins are so pixelated and pliant that it might well be broachable in 4–5 years’ time. Personally, however, I would prefer to cellar it for 8–10 years (by which time I hope that the new Cure album is finally released). However long you decide to keep it tucked away, this is a quite brilliant Pauillac. Drink 2025-2055. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was picked from September 16 to October 10 at 35hl/ha. It has a voluminous, generous bouquet of ample black cherry and blueberry fruit, quite floral if not exhibiting the killer definition of the 2016 tasted in direct comparison. The palate is very seductive and lithe thanks to the supple tannins. There are plenty of layers of black fruit here, laced with graphite and touches of mint, and building nicely to a defined finish. Touches of dark chocolate on the aftertaste mingle with minerals. This is a seriously fine Pichon-Lalande that might ultimately stand shoulder to shoulder with the 2016. Drink 2025-2055. 97+ Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would cellar the 2018 for a decade or so, if patience permits. It's a stellar wine in the making. Drink 2028-2058. 95-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is powerful, dense and explosive, with a real sense of vertical lift that conveys energy. Grilled herbs, lavender, inky blue/purplish fruit and spice notes develop in the glass, but it is the wine's balance, purity of tannin and finish that stand out most. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Februari 2021) 99 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) This has to be up there with one of the most seductive Comtesses on record with layers of alternating softness and concentration combined with a lot of 2016’s elegance and power. The nose on this stands out a mile, getting it right up on the podium before you even take a sip. Rich raspberries combine with peonies and curls of woodsmoke while the appellation’s signature slate, cedar, liquorice and tannic grip slowly builds up on the palate. 97+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot with a pH of 3.85, an IPT (total polyphenol index) of 87 and 14% alcohol. The grand vin represents 50% of the crop this year. Deep garnet-purple colored, it charges out of the gate with bold scents of baked plums, ripe blackcurrants and wild blueberries, followed by hints of cedar chest, pencil lead, bouquet garni and charcuterie, plus a waft of lilacs. The medium-bodied palate is beautifully crafted with its seamless freshness and firm, grainy tannins supporting the compelling, finely knit black fruits and savory nuances, finishing on a lingering fragrant-earth note. This will need a good 5 years to come around and should easily cellar for another 30 years or more. Drink 2026-2056. 96-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The grand vin represents 50% of the crop this year. The 2018 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is made up of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot(...). Full-bodied, concentrated and completely laden with tightly wound black fruit and savory layers, the palate gives a rock-solid backbone of firm, super ripe, super fine-grained tannins and soft background freshness, finishing very long with a veritable display of mineral fireworks. 98 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (Februari 2021) 97-100 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (April 2019) Cassis, blackberry, pepper and tobacco notes are in the mix, with good energy on the graphiteedged finish. Shows textbook typicity, and should be ready in the near term after bottling. 96-98+ Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) The top wine is the 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De Lalande, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Compared to the 2010 by director Nicolas Glumineau, this saturated purple-colored effort offers the classic elegance and regal style of the estate as well as plenty of pure Pauillac character. Crème de cassis, liquid violets, charcoal, and scorched earth nuances all give way to a full-bodied, deep, layered 2018 that has remarkable purity, building yet ultra-fine tannins, flawless balance, and a great, great finish. It's in the same class as the magical 2016, and while I suspect it will be approachable with just short-term cellaring, it's going to age for 40 years or more. This estate has been on a qualitative roll over the past 5-6 years thanks to the talents of Glumineau, and this is unquestionably another great wine from him and his team. 18-18,5/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 97-99+ Yohann Castaing – Anthocyanes (April 2019) Cerise noire, un peu prune, un très beau nez de fruits noirs ""al dente"". Charnu, juteux, dense sans être lourd, des tanins suaves et laissant penser à du velours, de la soie. Un vin qui ne se laisse pas trop approcher mais qui reste d'une race et d'une splendeur magnifique. Plein, sapide et aérien. De très beau amers avec des notes d'âtre de cheminée et de fumé en finale. Un très grand Pichon Comtesse qui fera date. 97-98 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 96-98 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 17,5/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot; 60% new oak. 35 hl/ha. Barrel sample. Black core. Cedary cassis-leaf aroma, typically Pichon Lalande. Like the Réserve de la Comtesse, this is so gentle, charming, rounded, fresh and tender. Easy to underestimate. Extremely fine, intense but no show of power even with a long finish and even knowing that it has real depth. A gentle and surprisingly subtle beauty. 14%. Drink 2028-2038. 19-19,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 98-100 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) Full-bodied, rich, powerful, dense, opulent and frankly, incredibly sexy, as well as structured, stylistically it feels like a blend of 2009 and 2016 with the best attributes of each vintage. This wine is sensual with firm tannins, vitality, length, complexity and vibrancy in the finish. Yes, the wine is high in alcohol. But there is no heat, jam or lack of freshness. Everything here is in balance. Lay this down for a decade and pour sensuality right into your glass. 16,5-17/20 Le Point (April 2019) IN DE WOORDEN VAN NICOLAS GLUMINEAU Il est des millésimes qui traversent le temps et demeurent pour nos propriétés de véritables références. A Pichon Comtesse, sans aucun doute, 2018 sera l'un d'entre eux à plus d'un titre! Millésime de tous les extrêmes, réunissant plusieurs millésimes en un seul, 2018 nous ravit, enrichit notre expérience et entretient notre passion pour faire du vin ce vecteur d'émotions. There are vintages that traverse time and remain a true point of reference for our estates. At Pichon Comtesse, 2018 will undoubtedly and in every sense be one of those! A vintage in all extremes, uniting several vintages in one, 2018 is a delight, an enrichment of experience and cultivation of our passion for winemaking, a vector of emotions. Pichon ComtessePichon Lalande is de Amazone onder de wijnen en blijft zeer populair. Ook in Azië spreken hun licht exotische, kruidige karakter, het volmondig fruit en de gepolijste textuur aan. Het zijn elegante wijnen met ambitie. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc en 5% Petit Verdot. De percelen van deze mooie wijngaard van 89 hectare dragen mooie namen als Les Ardileys, le Moulin Riche, Longueville, Grand'Plante, la Chapelle, Virginie, Sophie, Marie-Joséphine... De ene ligt nabij de Gironde langs Latour, de andere strekken zich uit over het plateau ten Zuiden van Pauillac en we vinden zelfs 11 hectare aan de overkant van het beekje de "jalle" in Saint Julien. Zoals bij Palmer in Margaux brengt een relatief hoge proportie Merlot in het assemblage vrij zachte, soepele wijnen. Pichon Lalande was de bruidschat van Pierre Mazure de Rauzan toen zijn dochter Thérèse huwde met Jacques de Pichon Longueville in 1700. In 1850 werd 3/5 geërfd door de drie zusters van de Baron Pichon en in 1926 samengebracht in Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. Vanaf 1978, onder het bewind van "la Générale", de dynamische Madame de Lencquesaign, werd de rivaliteit met overbuur Pichon Baron aangewakkerd. Vandaag beheert Nicolas Glumineau deze Grand Cru Classé namens de eigenaar sinds 2007, het Champagnehuis Louis Roederer. De investeringen zijn groots opgevat; de nieuwe installaties laten voortaan perfecte "vinification parcellaire" toe en werken geheel op zwaartekracht... Maar het uitzicht over Château Latour en de Gironde blijft enig! In de komende wijnjaren verwachten wij zonder meer grandioze wijnen van Pichon Lalande, de legendarische 1982 achterna... | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||