Hemelse florale frisheid en schitterend rood fruit (kersjes op getorrefiëerde boontjes) ten spijt, komt Trotanoy 2017 nog gebald uit de hoek. Dit is normaal (en zelfs wenselijk) op dit stadium van de ontwikkeling. De intense tanninestructuur zal de fruitige kern van sappige kersjes nog wel laten exploderen! Ondertussen kunnen we de beloftevolle majesteit aanschouwen. Grand Vin. 90% Merlot en 10% Cabernet Franc op 7,2 hectare kleihoudende graves en zwarte klei op crasse de fer.
IN DE PERS
95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2020)
The 2017 Trotanoy fulfills the promise it showed from barrel with an enticing, captivating mineral-driven bouquet, crushed rocks permeating the black fruit. Subtle aromas of black truffle and smoke emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, perfectly pitched acidity, fresh and vibrant. A very harmonious and sapid finish gets the saliva flowing. Quintessentially Trotanoy, expect up to 30 years drinking pleasure from one of Pomerol’s most consistent performers. Drink 2024-2050.
93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Trotanoy is one of the standouts within J-P Moueix's range this year but hey, what’s new? The bouquet is just quintessential Trotanoy, exquisitely defined with wonderful mineralité, very poised with subtle scents of pencil lead and flint interwoven into the black and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, a killer line of acidity and an arching structure that does not put a hair out of place. This is a magnificent Trotanoy and although yes, La Fleur Pétrus shows a little more flair and flamboyance at this primordial stage, I feel that Trotanoy is the one that will attract the plaudits with bottle age. Perhaps the dark horse of the appellation? Edouard Moueix opined it was a bit "obvious". Well, obviously good in my humble opinion! Drink 2024-2050.
95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Maart 2020)
The 2017 Trotanoy is a dark, brooding wine, as it so often is. The tannins are forbidding at this stage, but then again, that is Trotanoy. Smoke, incense, game and a whole range of mineral inflections run through the 2017. Energetic and impeccable in its balance, Trotanoy is compelling in 2017, but readers need to cellar it for a few years at least, after which it will drink well for a number of decades. Drink 2027-2057.
93-96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Trotanoy is a dark, brooding wine with massive tannins and tons of structure. Graphite, scorched earth, smoke, game and incense add to the wine's decidedly virile, potent personality. There is real density and power in the glass. Then again, that is Trotanoy. Even so, in 2017 some of the wine's typically inward, brooding personality is tempered.
94 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2018)
The 2017 doesn't take my breath away as the 2016 did - with the 2015 a very, very close companion - but this has incredible persistency, and those cassis and bilberry fruits are drip-fed carefully and confidently. Subtle and very effective charred coffee beans play in through the mid-palate and onto the finish. This is a hugely serious wine, not giving much away at the moment, but you just know it's going to reward patience and cellaring. There was no frost to contend with here. Drink 2027-2040.
97+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (Maart 2020)
Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Trotanoy is 100% Merlot and begins quite stubborn and broody on the nose at this youthful stage, needing a lot of coaxing to reveal a core of plum preserves, blackberry pie and licorice with suggestions of cast-iron pan, underbrush, tilled soil and charcoal. Medium-bodied, the palate is not at all weighty, but it is built like a brick house, with bags of restrained, muscular fruit and a solid line of firm, grainy tannins, finishing with epic length and fantastic tension. A very impressive wine that should by incredibly long-lived! Drink 2024-2067.
96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (April 2018)
A final blend of 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Trotanoy opens with expressive red and black fruit notes including redcurrant jelly, kirsch, Black Forest cake and cassis plus hints of roses, dried Provence herbs, tobacco and underbrush. Medium to full-bodied with generous, expressive fruits supported by plush tannins and just enough freshness, it finishes long. This is quite an opulent, decadent Trotanoy! Drink 2025-2037.
99 James Suckling - jamessuckling.com (Augustus 2021)
A very pure nose that exudes poise and precision, in every aspect of this wine's composition. Aromas of violets, blueberries, cedar, fresh truffle, wet earth and plums lead to a palate that offers a very full, plush and intense core of pristinely ripened red-plum fruit and mouthwatering freshness, as well as tannins that imbue the long, balanced finish with great clarity. Incredible triumph for the vintage. Try from 2023.
96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2018)
This is very solid for the vintage with a core of fruit and ripe tannins. Full-bodied, structured and intense. Shows focus and beauty already.
17/20 Julia Harding MW – jancisrobinson.com (April 2018)
Very deep crimson. Scented with the purest of dark-red fruit. This has the same lovely dark finesse as the La Fleur-Pétrus just tasted but is perhaps very slightly less elegant at the moment, if even more persistent. Bone-dry, extremely fine tannin texture. All to come on this dark beauty.
91-93 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2018)
Black cherries, cassis, spice, dried earth and plenty of tobacco leaf show in the muscular, structured 2017 Château Trotanoy, which is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. More on the medium-bodied side of the equation with firm tannin, it has good density and length but needs more fat and opulence. I suspect it will round into form over the course of its élevage, but short-term cellaring is going to be the name of the game here.
95 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr (April 2018)
93-96 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (Maart 2018)
Ripe and focused, with sleek tobacco and mineral edges alongside the core of cassis and bitter cherry fruit. There's a nice tug of earth throughout too, and this has serious length, with ample reserves.
15-16/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2018)
94-96 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2018)
TrotanoyHet basisbeginsel dat Trotanoy leidt is superlatieve majesteit. In zijn zelfzekere en beredeneerde stijl, vertoont het de absolute perfectie die slechts enkele Grands Vins kunnen bereiken.
Trotanoy is oud Frans voor « trop anoi » of « trop ennuie » (waarmee verwezen wordt naar de lastige bodembewerking). De wijngaard van zo'n 7,2 hectare is één van de best georiënteerde percelen van Pomerol en is sinds 1953 eigendom van Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix. De bodems kunnen we opsplitsen in enerzijds graves rustend op klei en anderzijds "argiles noires profondes". Beide rusten op een substraat van "crasse de fer" die de wijnen zowel kracht, diepte als complexiteit bezorgen. De wijngaard bleef gedeeltelijk gespaard van de grote vorst die Bordeaux teisterde in de nacht van 19 op 20 februari 1956 en benadert een gemiddelde leeftijd van 35-40 jaar. Hij wordt over het algemeen geplukt over drie halve dagen. De vinificatie gebeurt in ciment en de élevage in de helft nieuwe eik. Trotanoy is uiterst begerenswaardig en grote millésimes mogen vele decennia lang worden gekelderd. Er worden jaarlijks slechts zo’n 2.000 kistjes gemaakt.
Trotanoy zet een indrukwekkende reeks prachtige millésimes verder. Trotanoy 2005 tot 2012 rivaliseren telkens met Pétrus. Geen enkele Pomerol, tenzij misschien Lafeur, kan deze status ambiëren. Vroeger, tussen 1960 en 1975, was dit al het geval en nu dus opnieuw... MoueixChristian Moueix is net zoals zijn legendarische vader, Jean-Pierre Moueix, vereenzelvigd met Pomerol. Na zijn studies aan UC Davis eind de jaren 1960, vervoegde hij de Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix waarvan hij de leiding nam. Zijn zoon Edouard staat nu aan zijn zijde. Hij bestuurt een indrukwekkend imperium dat ondermeer La Fleur Pétrus, Trotanoy en Hosanna omvat in Pomerol, Bélair Monange in Saint Emilion en Dominus in Napa Valley. In 2008 werd hij “Decanter Man of the Year”. | |
