Fenomenale kwaliteit tegen een onberispelijke prijs! Canon zet sinds 2015 echt wel de toon in Saint Emilion met een reeks indrukwekkende, schitterend gemaakte wijnen. Wijnmaker Nicolas Audebert zet Saint Emilion op stelten en dit niet alleen door met zijn vintage Defender van het ene perceel naar het andere te crossen. Als geen ander soigneert hij de élevages. De onwezenlijke fraîcheur, het stralend rood fruit en de suave persoonlijkheid van het “nieuwe” Canon overtuigen. De 2017 vertoont een diep robijnrode schijn. Tonaliteiten van blauwe pruimpjes en rijpe kersen worden genuanceerd door licht rokerige en subtiele vanille-toetsen. De textuur van cashmire verbluft in de mond dank zij de onwezenlijk verfijnde en soepele tannine. Het fruit glijdt over de fluwelen structuur en fraîcheur doorkruist het rijpe fruit in een bijzonder elegant en precies geheel voorzien van een bijblijvende finale. Chapeau!
Geen noemenswaardige vorst op Canon in 2017 met een gezond rendement van 42 hl/ha. De oogst vond plaats tussen 4 en 21 september. Het assemblage van 77% Merlot en 23% Cabernet Franc zal gedurende 18 maand een élevage genieten op 56% nieuwe eik om precies te zijn.
IN DE PERS
95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2020)
The 2017 Canon was bottled on 15 May, 2019. This needs time to settle in the glass, the oak rather vocal at this early stage and overshadowing the blackberry and briary aromas. It only takes a couple of minutes for this Saint-Émilion to settle and reveal more limestone-infused fruit that really shows its terroir. The palate is very well defined with crunchy black fruit. I appreciate the chalky texture and freshness of this Canon, almost brittle, with blackberry and brine-like notes on the finish. Whilst not up there with the superlative 2016, the follow-up is still very fine. Note that over multiple tasting this Canon improved between September and December. Drink 2022-2045.
92-94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Canon was picked 4 to 21 September and 22 to 27 September for the Merlot and Cabernet Franc at 42hl/ha and matured in 56% new oak. There is 14.0° alcohol this year and the pH comes in at 3.66. This takes a little time to open, eventually revealing blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light iris scents. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and good backbone. Strangely, it reminds me a little of modern-day Figeac, that Cabernet component smaller here but very expressive with touches of graphite and flint towards the linear but beguilingly fresh finish. I like the manner in which the limestone shines through the wine here, something noticeable in recent vintages. Whilst not the sensational 2015 or 2016, it is a damn fine Saint-Émilion that will settle at the top of my banded score. Drink 2022-2045.
97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Maart 2020)
Nicolas Audebert and his team have done it again. The 2017 Canon is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Rich and vertical in construction, the 2017 possesses off-the-charts richness and intensity in all of its dimensions. In the glass, the 2017 is sumptuous and layered, with superb detail and tons of sheer pedigree. In 20 years, readers will have a fabulous time tasting the 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 together and debating their respective merits. Dark plum fruit, striking Franc aromatics and the clean, focused energy of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau make for a ravishing, exquisite wine of the highest level. In a word: breathtaking. Drink 2027-2057.
93-96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
A rich, explosive wine, the 2017 Canon exudes class from the very first taste. Huge aromatics resonate through to the palate, where the wine is deep, fleshy and beautifully layered. Effortless and gracious, Canon is a wine of real pedigree. I don't think the 2017 will reach the dizzying heights of the 2015 or 2016, but it will be interesting to see how close it gets.
94 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2018)
Another successful year for Canon; not as voluptuous as in 2016 or 2015, but it has a wonderful salinity and a crisp, fresh curl to the fruit. They aim for crystalline flavours, vibrant fruit and a sense of forward motion, and for me it has that again this year. The flavours of blueberries, blackberries and soft, smoky almonds are drawn out through the palate, and by the time it has finished you are ready to go again. It has an austerity that is overridden by the juice, not quite overriding the vintage, but it's a delicious wine that again showcases the beauty of limestone. 50% new oak. Thomas Duclot is consultant here, and it really is a great year for the estates that he works with. Drink 2025-2040.
96+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (Maart 2020)
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Canon bursts from the glass with expressive notions of baked black cherries, kirsch, plum preserves and black raspberries plus hints of red roses, Ceylon tea, black olives and fertile loam. Medium-bodied, the palate is wonderfully elegant and refined, with a soft, finely grained texture and seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral laced. The blend is 77% Merlot and 23% Cabernet Franc and it was aged for 18 months in French oak, 50% new. Drink 2021-2045.
94-96 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (April 2018)
The deep purple-black colored 2017 Canon offers-up intense notes of crushed blackberries, black cherries and warm cassis with touches of fertile loam, yeast extract, beef drippings and iron ore plus a waft of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied with great freshness and firm, rounded tannins, it's very earthy in the mouth, finishing long and mineral-laced. A very serious wine, it is also fun, bright and vivacious and should age impressively.
94-95 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2018)
This is very focused and fresh with limestone and crushed-stone character. Medium to full body, integrated tannins and a salty finish. Shows lots of minerality already. Umami licorice undertones.
17/20 Julia Harding MW – jancisrobinson.com (April 2018)
Deep crimson. Sweet dark plums and a touch of vanilla. Lovely pure black fruit that sings, if quietly for now. Silky and elegant. Refined and just slides over the palate to a very long finish. Subtle beauty. Drink 2022-2032.
94-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2018)
One of the gems in the vintage is the 2017 Château Canon, which checks in at 73% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc. Sensational notes of black cherries, blueberries, liquid violets, awesome graphite, and scorched earth-like minerality all give way to a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, incredibly pure, yet masculine beauty that has building tannin, beautiful purity of fruit, and a great finish. It's not going to match the 2015 on sheer size and scale, but it's a sensational wine. It’s going to need 3-4 years of bottle age to be drinkable and will keep for two decades or more. Tasted twice.
96 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr (April 2018)
93-96 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (Maart 2018)
A very pretty, slightly high-pitched version, featuring sleek cherry, cassis and damson plum fruit racing through, picking up light savory and mineral notes. The minerality blooms through the finish, with a floral gilding adding a sparkly effect on the long, unencumbered finish.
16,5-17,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2018)
93-95 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2018)
CanonCanon is een Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé die zijn sporen verdiende in een ver verleden. De aankomst in 1996 van de broers Wertheimer werd een kantelmoment. De eigenaars van Chanel pasten Haute Couture toe: vandaag is een typische Canon extreem elegant, fijn en complex. De wijngaard werd gaandeweg uitgebreid van 20,5 tot 34 hectare (31 in productie), na de aankoop van Curé Bon la Madeleine (plateau, argilo-calcaire) en Matras (de zuid-zuidwestelijke helling en pied de côte ten Zuiden). John Kolasa en nu Nicolas Audebert zetten orde op zaken. Twintig jaar “volstond” om Canon er weer helemaal te doen “staan”. Canon is vandaag the talk of town (in Bordeaux en tot ver daarbuiten) zeker sinds de legendarische 2015, 2016 en 2018. Er werd 70% Merlot en 30% Cabernet Franc aangeplant op een densiteit tussen 6.500 en 7.200 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard was 30 jaar in 2018. De bodem bestaat uit kalk onder een dunne laag klei op het plateau en zandering klei op de helling.
AudebertNicolas Audebert is een wijnmaker van formaat en een tovenaar. Hij bouwde zijn carrière uit bij Champagne Krug en Cheval des Andes in Argentinië voordat de gebroeders Wertheimer hem aanstelden als opvolger van John Kolasa sinds 2015 op Château Canon, de Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, en Château Rauzan Ségla, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé Margaux. Zijn “coup d’essai” werd een “coup de maître”: zijn magische Canon 2015 is nu al de legende ingegaan. | |
