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 | 2018 Ch. Les Carmes Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan | € 135,00 (€ 163,35) |
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Les Carmes Haut Brion ontpopte over de laatste millésimes tot een ware successstory. Razendsnel ging het: je kan er niet meer om heen. Dit is Bordeaux’s meest kordate antwoord op de hedendaagse smaak van de ervaren wijndrinker en l’air du temps. Net als Canon in Saint Emilion, Rauzan Ségla in Margaux of Calon Ségur in Saint Estèphe is het flamboyante Les Carmes Haut Brion de wijn die in Pessac Léognan de grenzen verlegt. 2018 is “it”: een showstopper die alle aandacht opeist. Het vatstaal overtuigt met hemelse fraîcheur en ultra-fijne complexiteit. De neus intrigeert met rijpe kersjes, pioenen en viooltjes. De attaque is fijn en mineraal en het palet lijkt reliëf te vertonen. Zo vitaal en intens is het, dat je een hartslag hoort kloppen. Een beat. Onbeschaamd rijp fruit brengt intensiteit. “Whole cluster fermentation” (in ciment voor 53% van de oogst) brengt fraîcheur. De combinatie van beide geeft een “je ne sais quoi” eigen aan de de meest wonderlijke wijnen; moest de Zuidafrikaan Eben Sadie een Bordeaux maken (een van de pot gerukte hypothese, hij houdt meer van Chenin Blanc, Grenache, Cinsault enz.) zou hij misschien “zoiets” neerpoten… Bovendien lukt dit alles in aromatische zuiverheid en met een beheerst pH en alcoholgehalte (respectievelijk 3,61 en 13,75%vol). Deze zelfzekere Pessac Léognan vertoont massa’s reserve. Het assemblage: 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon en 29% Merlot. Het succes van Cabernet Franc in 2018 wordt hiermee nog eens onderstreept. Sommigen vinden dat die druif minder gedijt op Graves… Gelukkig slaat deze ideosyncratische wijn conventional wisdom in de wind. Hoera! De oogst vond plaats tussen 13 en 28 september 2018 en het rendement klokt af op 37 hl/ha. Elevage en foudres waarvan 75% nieuwe eik (Taransaud, Ana Sélection, Ermitage en Stockinger). 9% van de productie passeert wel in amforen. 6.000 kistjes van 6 flessen. Gelieve ons te raadplegen, want dit is uiterst beperkt (misschien per fles?) beschikbaar. IN DE PERS 100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a rock star of a wine. (...) it hits the palate with a full-bodied yet almost understated, building style that carries ripe, supple tannins, gorgeous amounts of smoky black fruits, and an endearing, layered, multi-dimensional texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. (...) Hats off to Guillaume Pouthier for a magical, seamless, singular beauty! 96-98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) In the same realm as the magical 2016, the 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion comes from the talented Guillaume Pouthier, who has this estate firing on all cylinders. Checking in as an interesting blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot, and 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, it was fermented with roughly 40% stems and is expected to spend 18-24 months in 75% new French oak. Its deep purple color is followed by an incredibly pure and complex bouquet of sweet cassis, crushed violets, graphite, smoke tobacco, and beautiful minerality. Medium to full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, and elegant on the palate, it shows a more vibrant, fresh side to the vintage, has terrific tannin quality, and is simply pure class any way you look at it. I was served the 1945 Carmes-Haut-Brion by Guillaume blind, and it reminded me of a ripe, youthful vintage from Haut-Brion. It certainly didn’t taste like a wine approaching 75 years in age! This is a magical terroir which is being maximized by Pouthier today. Believe the hype. 97 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a total knock-out, just as it was from barrel. Soaring in its aromatic intensity, Les Carmes dazzles from the very first taste. Inky red fruits, mocha, new leather, licorice, dried flowers, sage and mint envelop all the senses. Today, the 2018 appears to be slightly closed, but time brings out tons of aromatic energy and nuance. Cabernet Franc plays the leading role, unusual for this part of the region. Franc aromatics and a fair amount of whole cluster savoriness lend energy but also a feeling of richness without weight that is especially appealing. This is a masterpiece from Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier. Drink 2026-2048. 95-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is one of the wines in this vintage that comes very close to its 2016 sibling. A wine of dazzling intensity and stature, Les Carmes Haut-Brion is simply magnificent. Rose petal, wild black cherry, sage, menthol, licorice and dried herbs add myriad shades of complexity to this explosive, dense wine. As always, Les Carmes is done with a fair amount of whole clusters, 40% in this case, but in 2018, the maturity is such that the stems are very well integrated into the wine's fabric. The blend is 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot and 29% Cabernet Sauvignon. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) This is really exotic with peaches, oranges and blackberries. Full body, lovely purity of fruit and soft and integrated tannins that are barely detectable. Extremely long and persistent. Savory. White pepper and bark with black-tea and charcoal undertones. Superb complexity. 53 per cent whole-cluster fermentation. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) The march of Carmes Haut-Brion continues in 2018. Once again it stands out for a number of reasons: not least because of its high amount of Cabernet Franc, and also because it is made with 53% whole-bunch fermentation - a brave choice by winemaker Guillaume Poutier and one that pays off hugely in terms of balance and lean muscular build. Even without knowing any of the story behind the bottle, you would be hard-pressed to pass this wine by. It has obvious intensity but as you sit with it the softness and approachability of the tannins becomes apparent, helped by the inviting floral edge to the nose, adding peony and violet lift. The black fruits running through the palate are tight but silky and seductive - this has a higher Cab count than usual because the Merlots were more affected by the challenges of the vintage. The palate pulses, switching between richness and delicacy, feeling expertly handled. You get the feeling that you can relax - they've got everything covered! It will inevitably close down in a few years, but until then you could almost go for it with a good carafe. IPT95. Harvested 13-28 September. 3.58pH. Ageing is mostly in large oak casks, 76% new, plus 9% aged in amphorae. Drinking Window 2027 - 2042. 96+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is composed of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. It was made using 52% whole cluster and has 13.75% alcohol. It was aged in 75% new oak barriques, 16% foudres and 9% amphorae. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a little coaxing before bursting from the glass with vibrant scents blackberry preserves, redcurrant jelly, mulberries and Black Forest cake, leading to an undercurrent of pencil lead, black truffles, cast-iron pan and charcoal with an emerging waft of violets. The elegantly crafted, medium-bodied palate dances with red and black fruits before bursting into earth and mineral sparks. It has a sturdy frame of firm, grainy tannins and bags of freshness, finishing long and savory. The stem tannins lend this wine a firmness and textural interest, which should integrate further with another 5-6 years in barrel, allowing the nuances to shine through even more, then you can continue to enjoy its slow evolution for a further 30+ years. Drink 2026-2056. 94-96+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is composed of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. It was made using 52% whole cluster and has 13.75% alcohol. It is anticipated to age 18-24 months in 75% new oak barriques, 16% foudres and 9% amphorae. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is slightly broody and reduced to begin, slowly growing to reveal notions of charcoal, smoked meats, truffles and tilled soil over a core of black raspberries, warm black cherries, blackberry coulis and redcurrant jelly plus wafts of Provence herbs and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is taut and muscular, tense with latent energy, offering a rock-solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the bright, vibrant fruit, finishing long and mineral laced. 95-98 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (April 2019) This throws off a stream of cassis, cherry preserves and raspberry fruit that is pure and bright, laced with a racy mineral edge through the finish. Stands apart from the pack for its purity and finesse. Really beautiful. 94+ Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was always going to be a wine that I would leave for 12–24 hours to monitor its evolution. It has a splendid bouquet of a mixture of blackberry, freshly rolled tobacco, autumn leaves and touches of brine. It is classic in style and showcases the Cabernet Franc element supremely well. The palate is in many ways uncompromising. The Cabernet is in full effect: herbaceous, with bell pepper and bitter cherry, quite tannic, and for the vintage, one of the most austere wines you will find in Bordeaux, let alone Pessac-Léognan. I personally find it to my taste, but it is not a wine for hedonists seeking bundles of juicy fruit. An intellectual Les Carmes for sure, one that leaves you pondering in which direction it will age. Drink 2024-2050. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was picked from 13 to 28 September, vinified 52% with whole bunch and pigeage only. It is aged in 75% new oak, 16% Stockinger foudres and 9% terracotta amphorae. I love the aromatics here: intense black cherries, violet, black olive compote and orange blossom, all beautifully delineated and focused, the oak seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a structured opening, the whole bunch contribution altering the texture with a slight graininess. Good freshness here, very well balanced with fine tannins and plenty of freshness, this segues into a poised sapid finish with hints of oyster shell on the aftertaste. Drink 2024-2050. 18-18,5/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 96 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 92-94 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 17,5-18,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 98-100 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) Caliginous in hue, the wine exudes tobacco, smoke, blackberry, pepper, flowers, and spearmint. On the palate, you'll find density with lift, intensity with complexity, sweetness with verve. The fruit shows a sublime sense of purity, similar to picking grapes off the vine during harvest and eating them right there. The finish matches power with elegance and length. The deep, opulent, mellifluous, mineral accented fruits just don't want to quit and they remain with you for at least 60 seconds. From a blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot and reaching 13.75% alcohol with a pH of 3.61, the wine was made using 55% whole bunches during fermentation. Currently aging in 75% new, French oak barrels, 15% in foudre and 10% in amphora for 18-24 months before bottling. The harvest took place September 13 to September 28. Les Carmes Haut BrionSinds 2012 maakt Les Carmes Haut Brion schitterende wijnen, met 2016 en 2018 als voorlopige benchmarks. Een anecdote: het is de enige Grand Cru Classé met een postcode in Bordeaux stad: 33000. Hij werd in december 2010 gekocht door de immobiliënmakelaar Patrice Pichet voor la Patrimoniale Foncière Pichet. Deze initiële aankoop van 7,6 hectare was de duurste transactie ooit in de geschiedenis van Bordeaux. Ondertussen is 25,5 hectare in bezit en sinds 2015 gebruiken ze nieuwe installaties gebouwd door designer Philippe Starck en architect Luc Arsène-Henry. De encépagement is atypisch voor Pessac Léognan: 41% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc en de rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Régisseur Guillaume Pouthier kwam over van bij Chapoutier en Stéphane Derenoncourt en Simon Blanchard zijn consulenten. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||