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 | 2018 Ch. Calon Ségur - Saint Estèphe GCC | € 112,50 (€ 136,13) |
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Calon Ségur 2018 is Madame X. Wie is Madame X? In 1883 portretteerde John Singer Sergeant een societydame. Het model was Virginie Gautreau, de Amerikaanse echtgenote van een Parijse bankier. Ik weet niet of de gelijknamige eigenaar van Sociando Mallet familie is... Het portret is een prototype van de verfijnde, elegante parisienne. De compositie is aangrijpend: haar profiel wordt geaccentueerd. De opvallende bleekheid van haar huid contrasteert op de sombere achtergrond. Een tiara verwijst naar Diana de godin van de jacht. De uitstraling is gecontroleerd, aristocratisch en afstandelijk. De taille is strak gebonden. De jurk verhult en onthult tegelijk. Dit erotisme werd oorspronkelijk nog versterkt door een afzakkend bandje. Le Figaro verweet onkuisheid: “nog een klein rukje aan de andere kant en de dame is vrij”. Na smeekbeden van het model werd het bandje overschilderd en het schilderij opgeborgen. De schilder stopte een tijd met schilderen en verhuisde naar London. Vandaag zie je dit meesterwerk in het Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Dit lijkt heel hard op de bloedmooie Calon Ségur 2018. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, en de rest Petit Verdot. De oogst vond plaats tussen 19 en 25 september voor Merlot, tussen 25 september en 5 oktober voor Cabernet en op 8 oktober voor de Petit Verdot. Het uiteindelijk rendement bedraagt 41hl/ha. Elévage zal 20 maand duren in 100% nieuwe eik. 14,9%vol. pH 3,75. Voor “to the point” commentaar, lees hier onder wat nuchtere critici ervan maken. IN DE PERS 97-99 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) A stratospheric, regal wine, Calon Ségur embodies all the best qualities of the vintage. Rich to the point of being exotically ripe, 2018 reminds me of the 2014 in its composition, but with more of everything. On the palate, the 2018 is towering and statuesque, with soaring structure and tremendous overall intensity. Striking aromatic top notes and bright saline underpinnings give the 2018 its energy, tension and nuance. As in 2014, the entirety of the château's Cabernet Franc went into the Grand Vin. Inky, powerful and explosive, Calon Ségur is a headspinning wine. Don't miss it! 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) The quality of the tannins is most notable here; they are present, but totally integrated and folded into the wine. Medium-to full-bodied with lovely savory fruit and a persistent and long finish. Very harmonious and fine. Yet, with air, it takes off with tannin power. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) An impressive, concentrated and powerful Calon that will win many admirers without a doubt, but I would be a little hesitant if you're a fan of the more classic balance found in the 2016. It has gorgeous chocolate and rich coffee notes, with complex exotic spices and even salted caramel on the finish, along with a lovely mouthwatering quality helped by a relatively low pH of 3.75 and a good yield of 41hl/ha. This will need long ageing, probably 20 months. I tasted it on several occasions and there are no arguments that it's a stunning wine but I would probably favour the 2016 if looking to cellar something, because it's more in character for what is one of my favourite properties in the appellation. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 100% new oak. Drinking Window 2028 - 2042 96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Calon-Ségur is blended of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (14.9% alcohol). It is anticipated to age for 20 months in barriques, 100% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs just a little coaxing before it reveals seductive notes of baked cherries, warm cassis, licorice and smoked meats with nuances of hoisin, camphor, Chinese five spice and dried roses with a waft of cardamom. Full-bodied and completely packed with concentrated black fruit and spice layers, it has a firm frame of grainy tannins and a wicked backbone of freshness giving an energetic lift to the very long finish. There's lots of brightness coming from the Cabernet Franc component in here, but it is nonetheless a decadent expression. 96-99 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (April 2019) Delivers a laser beam of cassis, bitter plum and cherry reduction notes, with an extremely fine-grained structure carrying this through a long finish. Accents of iron and violet are piercing in their purity and definition. A very complete and precise wine. 97-100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) In the running for the wine of the vintage in Saint-Estèphe (if not the whole Medoc), the 2018 Château Calon Ségur is a tentative blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and the balance Petit Verdot that will spend 20 months in new French oak. In comparison to the more backward Montrose and more classically styled Cos d’Estournel, this beauty is as sexy and opulent as Saint-Estèphe gets, revealing a saturated purple color, awesome notes of crème de cassis, crushed rocks, spicy oak, and cedar pencil, full body, remarkable purity, and sweet, mouth-coating tannins. Checking in at 14.9% natural alcohol, it’s a big wine, no doubt, yet is perfectly ripe (not overripe or underripe), has terrific purity of fruit and a seamless texture, all making for a singular, thrilling 2018. 92 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Calon-Ségur has a classic Saint-Estèphe nose. Rather obdurate at first, it takes time to coalesce, revealing black fruit, charcoal and warm gravel scents, well defined but distant and not predisposed to charm the imbiber. In a funny way, I quite like that stubbornness. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins and fine acidity. Maybe this feels a little pinched compared to recent vintages; it does not possess the amplitude of the 2016 and 2017 and it is rather serious on the brine-infused finish. This is a fine and very typical Calon-Ségur, though it is not the most finessed in recent years. Drink 2023-2045. 93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Calon-Ségur was cropped at 41hl/ha and matured for 20 months in 100% new oak. The last racking had been done in mid-July, a couple of months before the tasting, when the barrels are transferred into the second year cellar. What I find fascinating is that comparing this with the 2017, they are actually quite similar, despite significant differences with respect to the growing season. Mainly black fruit, raspberry coulis, hints of leather and undergrowth, this is well defined and focused, disguising the 14.9% alcohol. The palate is less predisposed to disguise the warmth of the growing season, with ample confit-like black fruit, mulberry, fig and bilberry jam. This is a Calon-Ségur of considerable girth: quite muscular in style and grippy towards the finish. I do not find it as nuanced or as pixelated as other recent vintages. This opulent Calon-Ségur will provide plenty of drinking pleasure over the next 20 to 25 years but writing this has a massive fan for many years, I need to be more convinced that it truly ranks as one of the estate's all-time greats. We shall see. Drink 2023-2045. 19/20 Bettane & Desseauve 100 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 18-18,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 97-99 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) Dark, inky with deep purple accents, the wine is dense, concentrated, full bodied, fleshy and powerful. The fruit shows lift, sweetness and purity. Even though the wine is quite high in alcohol, you never sense it. There is no heat or jammy aromatics. Instead your palate is ensconced in waves of ripe, intensely pure, spicy, red pit fruits. The wine was produced from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, reaching 14.9% alcohol with a pH of 3.75. The harvest took place September 19-October 8. The Grand Vin was made from 40% of the harvest. 18/20 Le Point (April 2019) Calon SégurCalon Ségur is de meest Noordelijk gelegen Grand Cru Classé van de Médoc en één van de mooiste terroirs van Bordeaux. De wijngaard omvat 50 hectare uit één stuk, ten noordwesten van het gehucht Saint Estèphe. Er is een bovenlaag van Graves argilo-sableuses, die werd gedeponeerd door de Gironde, en een kleihoudende onderlaag. 45 hectare zijn beplant met 56% Cabernet Sauvignon 35% Merlot, aangevuld met Cabernet Franc en Petit Verdot. De Cabernet Sauvignon gedijt er prima en omvat dan ook doorgaans ¾ van het assemblage. Densiteit van aanplanting is voor hen primordiaal en ze mikken op 8.000 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard is slechts 22 jaar in 2017. |