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 | 2018 Ch. Haut Bailly - Pessac Léognan GCC | € 116,50 (€ 140,97) |
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"Tout était bon!” rapporteerden Gabriel Vialard en Véronique Sanders. Gezien hun succes over de laatste wijnjaren is dit veelzeggend. De oogst verliep tussen 17 september en 9 oktober. Het rendement beperkt zich tot een schamele 21 hl/ha (ipv 40). 60% van de productie wordt Grand Vin. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot en 5% Cabernet Franc. IN DE PERS 97 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Haut-Bailly soars out of the glass, showing magnificent poise that only grows with time. Sweet, perfumed aromatics, silky tannins and mid-weight structure add to its considerable allure. Ripe red berry fruit, spice, blood orange, licorice, cedar, tobacco and menthol are all woven together in an effortless, classy Haut-Bailly that delivers the goods. I suppose the 2018 doesn't quite have the explosive energy of the very best years, but it more than makes up for that with its sensual, seductive personality. Drink 2028-2048. 94-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Haut-Bailly speaks with real authority and class. Deeply spiced notes lead into a core of red/purplish berry fruit, lavender, licorice, new leather, menthol and tobacco. Vivid and dramatic in bearing, the 2018 possesses striking resonance from start to finish. There is plenty of tannin as well, but it is pretty much buried by the sheer luxuriousness of the fruit, while the mid-palate and saline-infused finish show terrific freshness as well as purity. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. 99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2021) Complex and expressive nose, offering red and dark fruit, spices and pepper with wood and mushroom undertones. Fresh mussel shell and a hint of ink, too. Full-bodied with a fine texture and great balance between the acidity and the controlled, tannic structure. Very long finish. Goes on and on. Tiny production, 21 hectolitres per hectare. Try after 2025. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) Incredible depth of fruit to this with a center palate that shows superb character and texture. I love the hazelnut and coffee-bean undertones to the beautiful fruit, which shows great finesse. Full-bodied yet compact and tight, giving a sense of agility and flight to the wine. Extremely tight and polished tannins. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) This is a serious 2018, structured, layered and full of Haut-Bailly signature. The texture is striking, with the silkiness emphasised by a pH of 3.87 and a relatively high alcohol that is effortlessly integrated into the body of the wine. The complexity builds slowly through the palate but the persisting feeling is of menthol, a lifting off and peeling back of the intensity, revealing the fresher more nuanced notes underneath. There's a lot of the 2015 character here, in terms of its enjoyable structure and generous fruit, but it's more like 2016 in its serious finish, and there's no question that this will age well. The IPT is 86, more than the 84 measured in the 2010, but you don't feel it in the same way here. 5% Cabernet Franc completes the blend, co-fermented with Petit Verdot because they like the balance that it gives. 21hl/ha yield. Drinking Window 2027 - 2042. 96 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Haut-Bailly is blended of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, and it has 14.4% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a little coaxing to unlock a powerhouse of black fruit preserves, offering notes of blackberry pie, crème de cassis and black cherry compote, giving way to nuances of Chinese five spice, camphor, chocolate box and licorice with a touch of crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate is jam-packed with plush textured, rich black fruits, supported by a lively backbone and finishing long and spicy. It is decadently tempting to drink now, but give it 5 years in bottle to begin to see its full glory, while it should continue to transform for a further 20 years or more in cellar. Drink 2026-2046. 96-98+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Haut-Bailly is blended of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Grapes were harvested September 17 to October 9, and the wine has 14.4% alcohol. Deep purple-black in color, it opens slowly with profound notions of Black Forest cake, crème de cassis, roasted nuts and black olives, unfurling to reveal notions of menthol, crushed rocks, molten licorice and chargrilled meat plus a hint of lilacs. Full-bodied, rich and densely laden with layer upon layer of vibrant black fruits and mineral nuances, it has a solid backbone of firm, velvety tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long with compelling restraint and exciting energy. 98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (2021) 97-100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) A wine that's going to flirt with perfection, the 2018 Château Haut-Bailly is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, brought up in 60% new French oak. Hitting 14.5% alcohol, its deep purple color is followed by a fabulous bouquet of pure crème de cassis, crushed violets, white flowers, graphite, and damp earth. An incredibly powerful, opulent wine, it nevertheless has sensational purity as well as the freshness and elegance that's the hallmark of this terrific estate. It will drink well in just a few years yet keep for 20-25 years or more. 95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) After one bottle broke in transit, Véronique Sanders dispatched a replacement toute de suite. The 2018 Haut-Bailly retains its almost sumptuous bouquet of black cherries, boysenberry and huge bunches of freshly picked violets. The medium-bodied palate presents layers of black fruit laced with white pepper and iodine. This Haut-Bailly is very supple, the tannins very fine, and during its barrel aging, it has gained decidedly more grip on the finish. Whereas on day one it exhibits hedonism, returning on day two, it coheres marvelously and attains far more complexity and sense of grandeur on the finish. A sophisticated Haut-Bailly that should not be underestimated. Drink 2025-2055. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Haut-Bailly was picked from 17 September and 9 October. It has a very pure bouquet with perfumed black cherry and raspberry fruit laced with violet and iris petals. This is very impressive: very focused and demonstrating exquisite delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that mask the structure underneath. It is velvety in texture with a complex truffle and iodine tinged finish that according to Véronique Sanders has a softness that has manifested in recent months after en primeur. This is a very promising Haut-Bailly, one from the top drawer. Drink 2024-2055. 17,5-18/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) Nez complexe et intense, grand fruit mûr, des notes de tabac, cèdre, graphite, bouche très volumineuse, charpentée, avec une grosse structure tannique mais aussi un fruit explosif et une bonne fraîcheur. Un haut-bailly massif. 96 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) Couleur sombre, intense et belle. Nez intense, fin, fruité, pur, mûr et suave. Pulpeux en entrée de bouche, ample au développement, riche et puissant, un tantinet austère, le vin évolue noble et complexe vers une longue finale plutôt profonde pour le millésime. C'est superbe! Il est rare à Haut Bailly en primeur de ressentir des sensations à la fois pulpeuses et légèrement austères. 95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) This wine initially seems easy and just packed with fruit. As you delve behind the black fruits, the tannins come into play. The considerable structure shows concentration with a dense side that has power and a lighter side that has fresh fruit. The wine should age impressively. 18,5/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) Black core. Intense black fruit, less open than Haut-Bailly II, as you might expect, but just as intense in fruit. Deep, more chewy than velvety but the layers of tannin are very fine, there are just a lot of them. A more savoury quality on the palate than in the Haut-Bailly II. Packed with fruit but all coiled up on itself. Big but nothing sticks out. Clean, dry, dark-chocolate finish. Very ripe Cabernet cassis but with the freshness of the Merlot (they always pick the Cabernet late and the Merlot early). Juicy at the core. Big, harmonious and smooth. Embryonically elegant in its power and concentration. 14.4% Drink 2026-2040 18-19/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) Il s’agit d’un pur-sang. Un vin énergique, profond et, comme souvent à Haut-Bailly, parfaitement défini. Serré, tendu et très persistant. Quelle classe! Cette bouteille entrera dans la légende du cru. 96-98 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) With a gorgeous, deep ruby hue, the wine pops from the glass with floral, tobacco and a mélange of fresh fruits. The wine is full-bodied, concentrated, powerful and refined but what's more important here is the elegance in the mouth, the sweetness in the fruit and the balanced levels of acidity, giving you simultaneous weight, lift, length and purity in a classic, restrained style. 17,5/20 Olivier Bompass - Le Point (April 2019) Fruits noirs, fruité pur, bon volume, de la chair, tanins fins, serrés, fermes, note fumée, en longueur, racé. 19/20 André Kunz – Bordeaux Total (April 2019) Konzentriertes, komplexes, mineralisches, kräftiges Bouquet, Pflaumen, fein Zwetschgen, schwarzer Cassis, Rauch, Graphit, dunkle Edelhölzer, Black Currant. Dichtverwobener, vielschichtiger, kraftvoller, eleganter Gaumen mit viel feinem Tannin, konzentrierter, fein muskulöser Struktur, vielfältiger, dichter, dunkler Aromatik, sehr langer, dichter, aromatischer Abgang mit vielen Rückaromen. 98-100 Yves Beck (April 2019) Pourpre violacé. Bouquet intense marqué par des notes florales. Notes d’iris, de violettes, de griottes et de baies noires. A l’aération le bouquet exprime également des notes de fèves de cacao et gagne en complexité. La mise en bouche est ample et crémeuse. Haut-Bailly sait parfaitement allier la race, le charme, la puissance et la densité. Les tannins sont puissants et se révèlent en crescendo le long du palais pour atteindre leur maximum en fin de bouche. Ils ont un grain fin et sont de pair avec la structure qui est racée et qui confère de la fougue à l’ensemble du palais. Une très grande réussite. 19/20 Le Figaro (April 2019) Un vin superbe qui prend le meilleur des deux mondes en se dévoilant à la fois très séveux et ultimement aristocratique. Dense et riche en matière colorante, sa structure fière est dynamisée par une intense fraîcheur et une souplesse spectaculaire. 97-99+ Yohan Castaign – Anthocyanes (April 2019) Réglisse, graphite, épices, fruits noirs « al dente », des notes florales. Bouche pleine et charnue, de très beaux tanins délicats et doux (un peu taffetas), un milieu de bouche très imposant dans la délicatesse et l’affirmation de soi. Un Haut-Bailly au plus juste de son terroir. On ressent bien les angles en milieu de bouche avec une finale sur l’allonge et le côté aérien. Très sapide. Un vin de très grande classe. 19+/20 Weinwisser Undurchsichtiges Purpur mit schwarzer Mitte. Verführerische Nase nach Backpflaumen und Schat- tenmorellensaft. Im zweiten Ansatz duftige Veilchen und Cassis(likör). Am kräftigen Gaumen mit engmaschigem Tanningerüst, cremiger Textur ge- paart mit unglaublicher Eleganz und Rasse, die Tannine sind superfein, auf den Punkt gelesen. Im gebündel- ten Finale schwarzbeerige Frucht, Eisenkraut, Mokka, endet mit einer edlen Bitternote – ein À point-Pessac und die Nr. 1 in Léognan! Dieser PLV-Wert ist weiterhin auf Erfolgskurs und bei passendem Preis eine Top-Empfehlung. 96 Jacques Perrin – Vinifera (April 2019) 19+/20 Adrian van Velsen – vvWine (April 2019) Kräftiges Rubin, sehr dunkel. In der Nase tief, nobel, dunkelfruchtig mit reifen Brombeeren, Heidelbeeren, darüber Rauch, getrocknete Blüten, dezent Weihnachtsgewürze, kandierte Orangen, wirkt verspielt, tiefgründig. Im Auftakt kraftvoll, gradlinig, straff, ein Mund voll Wein, breitet sich aus, wird vollmundiger aber nicht breit, die Tannine sind markant, stützen die reife, pralle Frucht, der Wein zeigt sehr viel Power, bleibt dabei hochelegant, die 14.6% Alkohol sind sehr gut verpackt, die Säure ist mittelkräftig, hält das Powerpaket frisch und verleith Zug. Der Abgang präsentiert sich wieder äusserst straff und gradlinig, sehr lange Retroaromen auf Heidelbeere und Veilchenblüten. Einmal mehr ein sehr gelungener Haut-Bailly der mit Reife noch zulegen dürfte. 19/20 Hans Martin Gesellmann – Schweizerische Weinszeitung Elegantes Bouquet, Kräuter, Minze, Graphit, schwarze Brombeeren, Toast. Gute Dichte, saftig, viel feines Tannin, gute Struktur, elegante Saüre, Finesse, schwarzbeerige Frucht, reife Himbeeren, zart Bitter-schokolade im Finish, lang. 97-99 Christer Byklum – B My Bordeaux Ruby. Blueberries, anise, scented, dark fruity, elegant and nuanced, detailed, minerals nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, minerals, elegant, fruity, detailed, nuanced, layered, deep, fairly rich with freshness to back it up. Truly long. 19+/20 Matthew Jukes – matthewjukes.com (April 2019) (55 Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 Merlot, 5 Petit Verdot, 5 Cabernet Franc) | 50% new oak | 14.4% alc | 86 IPT – the highest ever at this Château This is a superb Haut-Bailly and the nose alone is worth a standing ovation. A big wine and somewhat of an anomaly for Haut-Bailly, the oak is perfectly balanced and the skin tannins are so well-judged – some of the finest in the region – that there is little astringency but massive quantities of energy and verve. The tempo of the flavour as it expands on the palate is staggering. The length is great, too, but this is not a big wine in spite of the IPT. It is simply sensational and it will live to fifty years. Haut BaillyHaut Bailly is een “essentiële” Pessac Léognan. Zijn wijnen markeren de proever volgens “l’esthétique à la française” die door dichter André Gide beschreven wordt als “rien de trop”. Omwille van dit classicisme herinnert Haut Bailly meer aan Haut Brion of La Mission dan aan Pape Clément of Smith Haut Lafitte. De wijngaard is een homogeen geheel van 30 hectare te Léognan, tien kilometer ten Zuiden van Bordeaux. Hij is beplant met 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot en 6% Cabernet Franc. Jaarlijks worden er zo’n 160.000 flessen geproduceerd. Voorgaande eigenaars waren Firmin le Bailly, Laurent de Lafaurie, baron de Monbadon, Alcide Bellot des Minières en Jean Sanders. Haut Bailly was Belgisch tussen 1955 en 1998. Sindsdien behoort het toe aan Robert G. Wilmers die de M&T Bank dirigeert in Buffalo, New York. Zijn echtgenote Elisabeth is een française. In de recentere wijnjaren 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009 en 2010, herkennen we de gebruikelijke elegantie, finesse en aromatische complexiteit maar het gebalder en intenser karakter is nieuw. We danken deze “tour de force” aan een meer beheerst rendement en het plukken op optimale rijpheid. Reeds sinds 1967 is er een tweede wijn, la Parde de Haut Bailly, en sinds 1987 zelfs een derde, een generieke Pessac Léognan. Die strengere selectie maakt van La Parde een even elegante en complexe wijn als de Haut Bailly van twintig jaar terug. SandersRobert G. Wilmers bracht de kwaliteitswijnen van Haut Bailly op een hoger echelon. Véronique Sanders van Beek, de kleindochter van de vorige eigenaar, is hier in grote mate voor verantwoordelijk samen met de getalenteerde Gabriël Vialard. |