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 | 2017 Columella - Sadie Family Wines | € 82,18 (€ 99,44) |
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Dit is misschien wel de beste Columella ooit. 2017 verenigt fruitige intensiteit, excellente persistentie en onwezenlijke verfijning. Hij doet dat met minder Syrah en meer Mourvèdre dan in 2016. Diverse percelen schetsen samen de ideale rode Swartland-wijn. Nogmaals blijkt dat een wijncollectie onvolledig is zonder Columella. Het bewaarpotentieel overtreft decennia. VOLGENS EBEN SADIE This 2017 Columella is the first of ‘the drought years’ to be bottled and this very wine stands as evidence of the great stability to be achieved in a region with multiple varieties and vineyards planted in diverse sites. It shows that the greatest and most stable quality is to be achieved by a selection of vineyards rather than just one. The expression of a singular site has its place, but there is simply no better strategy than the combination of a bigger variety of terroirs to build up the most stable representation of our region. This wine is the result of 12 months ageing in barrels (8% new) and thereafter an additional 12 months in old, big oval casks. This 2017 vintage has incredible tension and density and is very much ‘locked in’. The firmness of the wine suggests that it is a great keeper. It does exhibit amazing herbal, spicy and perfumed aromas and there is more than enough fruit – but it is a highly-strung wine that needs time. The tannins are fine, powdery and almost silky with a slightly lower acidity and more expanded palate than the 2014 and 2016. The wine is super-tight and will require at least 2hours of decantation if opened prior to 5 years of age in the bottle. IN DE PERS 98 Tim Atkin MW – 7th South Africa Special Report 94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (November 2019) The 2017 Columella has an outgoing, intense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit mixed with sage, tobacco and thyme, that seems a little smudged initially but gains clarity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, plenty of red berry fruit, a generous sprinkling of white pepper and a hint of fennel. Powerful yet refined, and very focused and harmonious on the finish. Gorgeous. Drink 2022-2045. 93 Anthony Muelller – The Wine Advocate Issue # 245 – roberparker.com (Oktober 2019) The 2017 Columella begins with a dusty essence and dark-fruited core, that is dusty yet still has a softness to the nose. The palate is expressive with an austere peppery edge that is tightly wound with dusty tannins and a sandy powdering of blackberry, dark cherry and black plum skin. Ethereally structured, the wine has power and precision that is highly complex and will age for decades to come. The finish is shy, yet still having the depth and breadth of a fine wine, that lingers with a firm dusty minerality and tannic grip. Wow! What focus! Drink 2020-2040. Tim James – winemag.co.za (Juli 2019) In fact, my impression was that Columella 2017 is the finest vintage yet, of a wine that has changed remarkably since the maiden 2000. Eben has never said other than that this is a work in progress: to say that “building a great wine is not the work of one generation” is both modest and claimful. That first Columella (still drinking very well) had about 85% syrah, with the remainder mourvèdre. Now there are half a dozen varieties in the blend, with syrah down to 40%. New oak is down to 8% for a year (from 65%), with a second year in big old oval casks. Especially since 2010, there’s been an ever-increasing finesse and freshness, and the wine (in fact like all these wines) is getting less assertive – though with a subtle, unignorable insistence and density. So while the 2017 has an almost austere core, it’s wrapped in a sweet-fruited sensuality. It’s still very tight and deserves many years of careful maturation. Sadie Family WinesWinery of the Year - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2015 SadieThe Swartland Independent Producers veranderen Zuid Afrika als wijnland. Hun pionier is één van de beste wijnmakers ter wereld (en een ervaren surfer) genaamd Eben Sadie. Hij wordt vereerd als National Treasure en gamechanger. Hij ontgint wonderlijke terroirs, herstelt verwaarloosde bushvines en leidt de avant-garde in doordachte wijnbouw en vinificatie. Zijn Columella en Palladius zijn de eerste Afrikaanse Grands Vins. Daarnaast biedt zijn iconische “Ouwingerdreeks” kleine loten eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen uit specifieke climats. Appreciëer deze boeiende en betekenisvolle wijnen zolang de voorraad strekt. 2017 Winemakers' Winemaker Award, Institute of Masters of Wine Jane Masters MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine - Eben’s determined search to produce outstanding wines has put Swartland and South Africa on the map. I am delighted that the Master of Wine Winemakers have rewarded his dedication and talent – it’s truly well deserved. |