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 | 2019 La Chenade - Lalande de Pomerol | € 19,00 (€ 22,99) |
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Geproefd op l'Eglise Clinet eind juni 2020. Dit assemblage van 80% Merlot en 20% Cabernet Franc, afkomstig van de graves op Les Cruzelles, krijgt een élevage op Taransaud-eik (30% nieuw) "pour plus de longueur", zoals maître de chai Olivier me vertelt. De 2019 is een absoluut schitterende La Chenade. Ik moet mijn nota's nog herlezen, of beter gezegd ontcijferen, en vul later aan. Weet ondertussen: La Chenade is weer eens onweerstaanbaar heerlijk. Glossy! IN DE PERS 91 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 La Chenade retains its exuberant nose of ripe black plum and kirsch scents, though on this showing, perhaps the Saintayme has a little more delineation now that both wines are in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied and shows more delineation and precision than the aromatics at the moment, offering dark berry fruit, white pepper and a touch of graphite, and turning quite spicy toward the finish. The nose does cohere in the glass, though, so afford this a year or two in bottle. Drink 2024-2038. 91-93 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 La Chenade in Lalande-de-Pomerol was picked between 18 and 26 September and matured in 30% new oak. Unlike Durantou's fellow Lalande-de-Pomerol, this is predominantly red fruit rather than black with exuberant raspberry and cranberry, almost pastille-like. The palate is extremely well balanced, maybe with a bit more structure and weight than Les Cruzelles. The finish is spicy thanks to a liberal dash of cracked black pepper. Wonderful, as usual. Drink: 2023 - 2038. 91-93 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 La Chenade is plump and voluptuous in the glass, with terrific fruit presence and tons of pure character. Inky dark cherry, plum, spice, new oak and chocolate are all amped up in this racy, super-inviting Lalande de Pomerol. Denis Durantou and his team coaxed an unreal level of finesse in 2019. Harvest took place between September 18 and 26. Denis Durantou's 2019s are absolutely brilliant across the board. My tasting was obviously bittersweet, as Durantou lost his battle with illness just a few weeks prior. Denis Durantou was one of the most intriguing characters in Bordeaux. I can't say I knew him well, but I always enjoyed tasting with him, as he was a person that spoke more with his eyes than with words. Things were implied rather than overtly stated. So, I tasted the 2019s with daughters Constance and Noémie over Zoom, in typical 2020 fashion. The Durantou sisters describe 2019 as a year with an early flowering and homogenous ripening that led to small, concentrated berries and higher pHs than normal. Temperatures were kept cool in the cellar, where both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations took place over cuvaison of 21 days (for all wines), in a reductive environment with little oxygen. From top to bottom, the Durantou 2019s are positively stellar. Don't miss them! 92 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 La Chenade is a lovely Lalande-de-Pomerol from the Darantou family, bursting with aromas of plummy fruit, wild berries, rose petals, smoke and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with supple tannins, succulent acids and a nicely defined finish, this charming wine represents one of the great values of right bank Bordeaux. Drink 2021-2039. 92 Yohan Castaign - robertparker.com (April 2023) The 2019 La Chenade exhales aromas of plum, dark berries, spring flowers and hints of spices. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, juicy and lively, perfectly balanced with a fresh, penetrating and long finish. It’s approachable now but also built to evolve with grace. 91+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2019 La Chenade is made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new oak. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it opens with broody notes of tar and damp soil over a core of baked plums, boysenberries, and Sichuan pepper, plus a touch of licorice. Full-bodied, the palate is packed with earth-laced black fruits, supported by grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on a lingering anise note. 88-90 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Juni 2020) Produced by Denis Darantou and family of Château L’Eglise-Clinet, this is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 La Chenade has a little reduction to begin, soon breaking through to reveal notes of raspberry pie, baked plums and boysenberries with hints of dusty soil, charcoal and wild sage. Medium-bodied, the palate is juicy and refreshing, with a light chewiness to the tannins and bags of freshness, finishing savory. 92 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Januari 2022) Grilled almond, sweet raspberry and red cherry fruit, fresh acidities, easy to love. Touch of gunsmoke reduction. Harvest September 18 to 26. 30% oak. 91 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 La Chenade is made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new oak. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it opens with broody notes of tar and damp soil over a core of baked plums, boysenberries, and Sichuan pepper, plus a touch of licorice. Full-bodied, the palate is packed with earth-laced black fruits, supported by grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on a lingering anise note. 16/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc; 30% new oak. Barrel sample. Round, forward and clearly for early drinking. Meaty, savoury edge to the fruit but aromatic freshness as well. Palate juicy with light but fine tannins. No great complexity but plenty of simple pleasure. 14%. Drink 2022 – 2028. 93 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2022) Plenty of dried fruit with some figs and berries. Coffee and smoke, too. Opens to flowers and pure fruit. Full-bodied and round-textured with a juicy, yummy finish. Drink after 2024. 92-93 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) Plenty of sweet berries with chocolate and smoke. Even coffee. It’s medium-bodied with ripe tannins. Cherries at the end. 94 Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com (April 2022) From the talented Denis Durantou, the 2019 Château La Chenade has a great bouquet of spiced red and black fruits, sappy flowers, sandalwood, and foresty, slightly herbal notes. These carry to a medium to full-bodied, elegant, yet rich Lalande de Pomerol that has beautiful tannins, nicely integrated acidity, and a great finish. It's beautifully done and should be snatched up by readers. It can be drunk today or cellared for 15 years. La ChenadeLa Chenade is een overheerlijke en vriendelijk geprijsde Lalande de Pomerol. Niemand minder dan de briljante Denis Durantou van Château L'Eglise Clinet in Pomerol is ervoor verantwoordelijk. Alle fruit komt van jongere, met grind bezaaide percelen van Les Cruzelles. Deze flessen bieden de beste verhouding prijs-kwaliteit-plezier in Bordeaux op vandaag. DurantouDenis Durantou was een geniale wijnmaker en één van de allergrootste in Bordeaux. De kleine productie van zijn Pomerol "extraordinaire" Eglise Clinet is wereldwijd gegeerd.Zijn talent bewees hij bovendien in de betaalbare wijnen die hij daarnaast maakte: van de achterdeur van l’Eglise Clinet zag Denis zijn wijngaarden van Les Cruzelles en La Chenade (Lalande de Pomerol). Verderop vinden we Saintayme (Saint Emilion) en Montlandrie (Castillon). Ze zijn allemaal heerlijk, geloofwaardig en overtuigend. Saintayme is een perceel van 35 jaar oude Merlots op klei en graves in Saint Etienne de Lisse binnen de appellatie Saint Emilion. In Lalande de Pomerol worden Les Cruzelles en La Chenade gemaakt naargelang de bodemsamenstelling en de ouderdom van de wijnstokken. De jonge wijnstokken van La Chenade (gelegen op graves) verleiden terwijl we de oudere wijnstokken van Les Cruzelles op klei en graves bodems kunnen vergelijken we goede Pomerols. Sinds de aankoop in 2000 zette Denis de wijngaard maniacaal naar zijn hand. Montlandrie in Castillon is de recentste aankoop: de 11 hectare klei en kalkgronden zijn beplant met 25 jaar oude wijnstokken (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc of 70%, 25% en 5% Cabernet Sauvignon vanaf 2016). Buiten de erkende appellaties om, behoren deze wijnen tot de beste van Bordeaux. De tweede wijn van Eglise Clinet, La Petite Eglise, is zeldzaam met een jaarlijks productie beperkt tot zo'n 7.000 flesjes. Het levenswerk van Denis Durantou wordt verdergezet door zijn drie dochters. « Je veux continuer à faire honneur au travail de mon père », zegt Noémie die al 4 jaar vinifieert samen met Olivier Gautrat, al 20 jaar maître de chai. « À Pomerol, Je suis chez moi. J’y ai grandi, j’allais à l’école du village, je jouais dans le chai et j’ai le souvenir des odeurs… ». Constance zorgt voor 400 olijfbomen en truffeleiken. Alix volgt vanuit Parijs en is gepassioneerd door kunst en Japanse cultuur. Hun mama, kunstenares Marie Reilhac neemt deel aan de assemblages. Zeventig jaar oude Cabernet Franc wijnstokken gedijen op het perfect gedraineerd terroir van argilo-graveleux. Eglise Clinet is één van de grootste wijnen die er zijn. Hun Les Cruzelles in Lalande-de-Pomerol en Montlandrie in Castillon zijn superwijnen en blijven héél toegankelijk. |