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 | 2019 Ch. Branaire Ducru - Saint Julien GCC | € 48,75 (€ 58,99) |
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Branaire staat voor Saint Julien met klasse en structuur en de laatste twee jaar overtreft hij zichzelf. François-Xavier Maroteaux volgde zijn overleden vader Patrick op. Die laatste kocht Branaire in 1988 en beplantte 60 hectares met 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc en 4% Petit Verdot. Kersjes en donkere pruimen domineren de neus. Het gebald palet is fris met elegante tannine. Haagvruchten prijken op het dienbord met een vleugje ceder. Het geheel is perfect geproportioneerd en verkwikkend. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot en 4% Cabernet Franc. Experimenten zijn aan de gang voor een geleidelijke overgang naar lutte raisonnée en biologische wijnbouw. De zoektocht naar precisie in aroma’s leidde eerder naar vinification parcellaire in kleine cuves et zachtere extractie. De zuiverheid van het fruit is vandaag hun toonladder en Branaire is er des te fijner om geworden. François-Xavier verduidelijkt : « Le 2019 sera un très bon ambassadeur du style Branaire, grâce à des merlots aromatiques et des cabernets parfaitement équilibrés. » De pers is unaniem enthousiast en de wijn is terecht zéér gevraagd fit jaar. Bovendien is de prijszetting onweerstaanbaar. François-Xavier geeft hiermee een signaal: « Amateurs, foncez! » Ik complimenteer. Dit zal de deur uitvliegen. Is er nog voor mij? IN DE PERS 94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Branaire-Ducru is one that I was eager to re-taste in bottle. Deep in color, it has a very well-defined nose of tightly packed dark berries, the tobacco element less obvious than before, and slightly more floral, with light sous-bois notes developing with aeration. The 60% new oak is neatly integrated. The palate shows real vivacity and tension on the entry and delivers crunchy black fruit, touches of blue fruit and a little iodine. Sappy from start to finish, this has a real saline tang that urges you back for another sip. There is definitely is more substance compared to previous vintages, and I wager that this represents the best Branaire-Ducru in recent years. 13.7% alcohol. Drink 2024-2050. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Branaire -Ducru is one instance where I felt that the first two bottles via the UGC shipment were not quite correct, so I requested two more direct from the château. They were different. It has plenty of dark berry fruit on the nose mixed with smoke, tobacco and undergrowth scents - just classic Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy saline entry, fresh and defined by the crisp tannins. Whereas the first samples lacked a bit of cohesion, this is more focused and detailed with a seriously impressive classically styled, graphite tinged finish. Result? Best Branaire I've tasted in barrel. Kudos to François-Xavier Maroteau and his team. Drink 2024 - 2050. 95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Branaire-Ducru is rich, layered and sumptuous. Black cherry, licorice, spice, leather tobacco and tar build effortlessly in the glass. The 2019 impresses with its density and pure power, which makes it perhaps atypical for Branaire by its historic standards, but it may be the direction the château seems to be headed in. The aromatics are a bit closed right now, but time in bottle should help take care of that. Drink 2029-2049. 94-96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Branaire-Ducru dazzles from start to finish. All the Brainaire signatures - rose petal, lavender, red and purplish fruit - are present, but they are kicked up a few notches, with all of the radiance of the year on full display. Soft, plush and so alluring, the 2019 Branaire is one sexy wine. Impressive. Tasted two times. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Branaire-Ducru unwinds in the glass with aromas of raspberries, blackcurrants, sweet soil tones and hints of cigar wrapper, rose petals and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's youthfully tightly wound, with terrific concentration, tangy acids, powdery tannins and a long, saline finish. While this is a little reserved out of the gates, its energy and classical proportions will richly reward bottle age. Drink 2029-2065. Branaire-Ducru occupies 60 hectares of deep gravel soils, in 80 or so different parcels, on the plateau of Beychevelle. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, but plantings of Petit Verdot on good soils are also a particularity of Branaire. When the Maroteaux family purchased the estate in 1988, a new winery followed a few years later; and now, another is under construction, which will almost double the number of fermentation vats, permitting more precise parcel-by-parcel vinification. Winemaking is very classical, and maturation is in around 60% new oak, with three or four traditional rackings. There are no smoke or mirrors at this address, just extremely good, age-worthy Saint-Julien that's always elegant and impeccably balanced. The 2019 vintage has turned out especially well and is worth a special effort to seek out. 95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Branaire-Ducru slips out of the glass with flamboyant notes of creme de cassis, blackberry pie, and Indian spices plus hints of potpourri and truffles. Medium-bodied, the palate has a quiet intensity of savory layers with ripe, fine-grained tannins and beautiful tension, finishing on a minerally note. 93-95+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com (Juli 2020) Sporting a deep garnet-purple color, the 2019 Branaire-Ducru starts off a little broody, with woodsmoke and graphite-inspired scents giving way to an emerging core of warm cassis, mulberries and fruitcake plus touches of mocha, rose petals and bouquet garni. Medium-bodied, the palate reveals surprising energy with bags of perfumed black fruits juxtaposed by compelling tension and a fine-grained texture, beautifully supporting the tightly knit layers, finishing on a lingering mineral note. If the bottled wine delivers on this promise, I foresee a wonderfully poised, nuanced Branaire-Ducru of the sophistication and caliber that has not been seen for quite some time. Exciting! Drink 2024-2044. 93 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Januari 2022) Hard to resist this finessed and silky Branaire, with finely boned tannins, well balanced black fruits, nuanced tobacco leaf and a crushed mint sign-off. Plenty to enjoy in this wine, there are good tannins. 43hl/h yield. 93 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) Floral-studded nose along with cassis fruits, this is an enjoyable Branaire Ducru that is easy to recommend. Lighter-framed than some in the appellation with its characteristic fine tannins making this a medium-term drinker within the St Julien context. Plenty of juice running through the palate, enjoyable baked earth and menthol notes and a kick of salinity on the finish. A yield of 43hl/ha. 4% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. Drinking Window: 2026 – 2042. 16,5/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. Barrel sample. Juicy, appetising and very aromatic. Almost primary in the definition of the aromas. Lithe and fresh on the palate, the tannins firm but not aggressive. Drink 2026 – 2038. 95 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (December 2021) Very clear fruit character of blackcurrants, orange peel and spices. Some walnut, too. It’s full-bodied with integrated, polished tannins and shows finesse and focus. Love the focused fruit at the end of this. Strength with finesse. Give it four to five years of bottle age. Try after 2024. 95-96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) Dark-berry and blue-fruit character to the firm, chewy tannins that are polished and solid. Medium to full body. Wood and walnut undertones now. Impressive. 95-97 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 94-96 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) Tobacco, mocha, cassis, blackberry and flowers are what you initially notice. This is a sensuous, medium/full-bodied, silky, fresh and pure wine exuding sweet, ripe, black plums, juicy blackberry and cassis from start to finish. The lift in the endnote gives you ample time to enjoy all the purity in the fruit, which is just great. Produced from a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc, the wine reached 13.7% alcohol with a pH of 3.65. Harvesting took place September 19 to October 9. The Grand Vin was produced from 55% of the crop. 96-97 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN FRANCOIS-XAVIER MAROTEAUX La robe montre une couleur dense et profonde. Le nez, déjà expressif, développe une palette complexe de fruits noirs et rouges d’une grande pureté. En bouche, l’attaque très ronde ouvre sur un ensemble d’une belle densité, mais la structure reste tout en finesse et en élégance. Elle est portée par une belle acidité, qui accompagne le vin sur une grande longueur. Branaire DucruDe wijngaard van 60 hectare is aangeplant met 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc en 4% Petit Verdot. De familie van wijlen Patrick Maroteaux is er eigenaar van sinds 1988 en in het millésime 2018 maakten ze waarschijnlijk hun allerbeste wijn. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||