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 | 2019 Ch. Giscours - Margaux GCC | € 39,20 (€ 47,43) |
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De oogst van 2019 was de langste in de geschiedenis van Gicours. De Merlot kwam vroeger binnen en de Cabernet mocht volledige rijping afwachten. Alle deze geduldige inspanningen resulteren in een assemblage van 65% Cabernet Sauvignon en 35% Merlot. Het rendement was normaal rond 45hl/ha. De wijn geniet ondertussen 16 à 18 maand élevage op 50% nieuwe Franse eik. Zoete roze pruimpjes, cuberdon, kersenbloesem en groene peper rijzen uit de purperen massa. Het stralend palet is tevens gebald en verfrissend. Knapperige tannine begeleiden de fruitige kern van bosvruchten. De lichtvoetige en florale finale is intens maar lijkt gewichtloos. Giscours blijft een grote bewaarwijn maar krijgt een nieuwe uitstraling. Eric Albada Jelgersma’s drie kinderen delen de visie van Alexander van Beek en zetten de ambities kracht bij. In de zomer van 2018 kwam Lorenzo Pasquini het team versterken. Met zijn ervaring in Mendoza en Cheval Blanc, stemt de nieuwe régisseur général de violen met de twee technische directeurs, Didier Forest bij Giscours en Frédéric Ardouin bij du Tertre: « nous souhaitons que chaque propriété développe sa propre identité ». Het doel is de aromatische complexiteit in Giscours tot uiting te brengen. Bodemspecialist Xavier Choné omlijnde homogene percelen op basis van hun waterhuishouding. Steroenoloog Thomas Duclos werd aangesproken om het aromatisch palet te finaliseren aan de hand van betere plukdata voor Merlots, van al dente tot rijp. Het resultaat lijkt voorlopig zeer positief : Giscours nieuwe stijl toont een vernieuwde ambitie. De pers apprecieert de evolutie. IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Giscours has certainly calmed down since its bravura performance from barrel, now more streamlined and focused, albeit retaining that black and blue fruit interlaced with pressed violet. The harmonious palate is very finely tuned and beautifully structured, with a touch of salinity. This is one of the more precise Giscours in recent years, perhaps partly due to consultant Thomas Duclos, who began working with the estate in 2018 (he was actually born nearby). This reminds me of some of the classic Giscours such as the 1966 or the 1970. It may even merit a higher score with bottle age. Drink 2025-2060. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Giscours is ripe and extrovert on the nose with exuberant black cherries, blueberry and crushed violets bursting from the glass. This is very seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with a tang of seaweed infusing the black fruit on the entry, segueing into more tarry notes toward the well structured finish. This articulates a sense of completeness that I appreciate. The persistency is impressive. This is a superb, potentially long-term Giscours that may well end up at the top of my banded score. Drink 2025 - 2060. 96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Giscours is every bit as compelling today as it was from barrel. Dark and sumptuous in feel, Giscours shows off its notable dimension and breadth. Succulent black cherry, plum, leather, tobacco, menthol and licorice intensify as this gorgeous, beautifully layered Margaux builds with time in the glass. The 2019 is a big wine, but not quite as exuberant as the 2018. Tasted two times. Drink 2029-2049. 94-96 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) Quite simply, Giscours is magnificent in 2019, and also one of the rising stars of Margaux today. Pliant, supple and creamy, the 2019 races out of the glass with striking dimension. Ripe red cherry, red plum, blood orange, spice and new leather all flesh out in a radiant, finessed Giscours that hits all the right notes. The 2019 is fabulous - that's all there is to it. Tasted two times. My tasting with General Manager Alexander Van Beek and Estate Manager Lorenzo Pasquini was one of the highlights of several weeks of the Zoom calls all of us will remember from this very particular campaign. According to Van Beek and Pasquini, 2019 was one of the longest harvests on record. The Merlot was picked early, to preserve freshness, while the Cabernet needed several additional weeks to achieve full physiological ripeness. Cuvaisons were long, 35 days on average, but pumpovers were stopped earlier in order to avoid overextraction. This new approach, along with the input of super-talented consulting oenologist Thomas Duclos, yielded two superb 2019s that continue Giscours' ascendency in Margaux and Bordeaux. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Giscours has turned out very well in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berries, cherries, burning embers, lilac and violets framed by a discreet patina of new oak. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's polished and perfumed, with a velvety, seamless profile and bright animating acids, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Alexandre Van Beek and his team are taking this estate to heights it hasn't hit since the 1970s, and this is another of the great bargains of the 2019 en primeur campaign. Drink 2029-2065. Giscours produced some brilliant wines in the past, with a string of notable successes in the 1970s and early 1980s, but then it fell victim to neglect. The predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in those old vintages, sometimes representing more than 80% of the blend, gradually ceded ground to more productive and facile Merlot; and the estate's reputation declined. When the Albada family acquired Giscours in 1995, all that began to change. Fully 140,000 missing vines were replaced, cultivating the soils was resumed and the winery was renovated. A young Alexander van Beek arrived for harvest in 1995 and ended up staying to oversee the work. And the results today are very exciting indeed. Giscours itself occupies three large gravel domes: one opposite the château itself, the other on the other side of the road and a third inland that hits fully 21 meters above sea level. There's a large park with a river at the heart of the estate, and the team are creating wildlife corridors and hedges to bring life back into the vineyards. Seeded cover crops now protect the soils, and canopies are a touch lower to limit excess sugar accumulation. At harvest itself, vines of different age have been marked out to be harvested separately: an immense task, considering that Giscours has 100 hectares under vine in the Margaux appellation alone. The 2019, however, demonstrates that all the work is worth it: this is the finest Giscours of the new era, and it's well worth seeking out. 93-95+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com (Juli 2020) Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2019 Giscours opens with notes of baked blackcurrants, plum preserves, tar and bouquet garni plus suggestions of moss-covered tree bark and chargrill. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers tons of black fruit preserves flavors, supported with a slightly chewy texture and just enough freshness, finishing long and savory. This is an impressive Giscours that seems to be holding its cards close to its chest right now—let's just see if it comes up trumps at bottling. Drink 2025-2048. 94 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) This is a serious Giscours, with medium intensity violet-edged ruby colour. High aromatics on the nose with cumin and cloves, followed by black cherry and cassis fruits that do a good job of filling the palate, and a cooling menthol finish as the tannins close in. Enjoyable overall, succulent yet with precision. Harvest lasted for an entire month, from September 11 to October 12, the longest ever at the estate and a reflection of more precise plot-by-plot work, with vines separated according to age and terroir. Thomas Duclos is consultant here as of the 2019 vintage. A yield of 44hl/ha. Drinking Window: 2028 - 2044. 93-95 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Juni 2020) 16,5/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot. Barrel sample. Quite an elegant wine. Dark fruited and minerally fresh with the tannins finely honed. A touch of oak spice on attack then smooth, linear, juicy and refreshing. Certainly understated. Drink 2026 – 2035. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) Lots of deep blue fruit with blackberries and grape skins, as well as tar and asphalt. Lead, too. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight with powerful, defined tannins, surrounded by attractive ripe fruit. Serious. Reminds me of the excellent 1975. A blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot. 95-97 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 94 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (Juni 2020) 95-97 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) 97 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) GiscoursGiscours is een domein van 300 hectare in de appellatie Margaux, waarvan er 83 beplant zijn met wijngaarden. In 1855 werd Giscours geklasseerd als Troisième Grand Cru Classé, acht jaar nadat het Château werd gebouwd door le Comte de Pescatore. In het park van Château Giscours zien we een "oversized" bril, nabij de vijver en gericht op het Château. Het is een knipoog naar de Nederlander Eric Albada Jergersma die in 1995 de exploitatie overnam. Dennis, Derek en Valérie volgen hun overleden vader op. Ze verkochten het Château du Tertre die hun vader gekocht had in 1997. De plannen voor Giscours omvatten binnenkort verbouwingswerken en de opening van een "locavore" restaurant, gericht op locale producten. Alexander van Beek is de manager. Giscours biedt klassevolle en intense wijnen met bewaarpotentieel. Van BeekAlexander van Beek is verantwoordelijk voor Giscours in Margaux in naam van een Nederlandse familie. Hij is tevens de echtgenoot van Véronique Sanders die de dagelijkse leiding heeft over Haut Bailly. |