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 | 2019 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste - Pauillac GCC | € 63,00 (€ 76,23) |
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François-Xavier Borie stond in 2019 41 jaar aan het roer van Grand Puy Lacoste en zijn kenmerkend optimisme is onomstotelijk, ook in deze Corona-crisis. Zijn grootvader kocht Grand Puy Lacoste in het midden van een Wereldoorlog. « En France on a une capacité de rebond. » oppert hij terwijl hij een even heerlijke als verrassende Grand Puy Lacoste presenteert. De 2019 bezit evenveel Cabernet Sauvignon (83%) als de magische 2010. De rest is Merlot. François-Xavier werkt aan een élevage van 18 maand op 75% nieuwe eik. Fleurs des champs, zwarte bessen en bloedsinaas stijgen overtuigend uit somber purperen glas. De kruidige complexiteit van de tongval is overheerlijk. De algehele indruk is afgewerkt en gelaagd rondom een intense kern van zwart fruit. Fraîcheur tekent onze aankoopbon af terwijl een encore van peperige frisheid, floraliteit en uit de kluiten gewassen tannine diepte verlenen aan de majestueuze finale. Dit is - weer eens - een excellente Grand Puy Lacoste. « On aurait pu s’attendre à un côté opulent avec l’été, mais on est surpris par la fraîcheur. » Zijn dochter Émeline, die de Syndicat viticole de Pauillac voorzit, deelt zijn mening: « une fraîcheur dynamique de la bouche qui réveille ». Ze besluit: « Quand je goûte le 2019, j’ai un souvenir de promenade dans la chaleur et la torpeur d’une fin d’après-midi. La sensation de goûter un fruit frais, une framboise, une fraise sauvage... ou même plutôt une cerise bigarreau ». De herinnering aan haar kindertijd in de tuin van het Château doet haar ogen fonkelen. De 2019 Grand Puy Lacoste excelleert, maar onderschat zeker niet hun schitterende tweede wijn: Lacoste Borie. IN DE PERS 96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Grand Puy Lacoste, as usual, requires plenty of aeration in the glass. Then boom! You get that gorgeous, classic Pauillac raspberry and blackberry fruit infused with cedar and pencil box scents. The harmonious, poised palate has wonderful focus, very fine tannins and a silky-smooth texture. As I remarked in my previous note, it’s very pliant and persistent, with a graphite-tinged finish. A glorious Grand Puy Lacoste that will need time to assimilate the oak – but hey, GPL lovers know the rules. Drink 2025-2060. 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Grand Puy Lacoste is deep purple in colour. Initially the bouquet is tight and so I left my sample for 15-20 minutes to open. It rewards patience with a beguiling mélange of pure blackberry, raspberry, crushed violet and pencil shavings, very focused and mineral-driven. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. Compared to the robust, tannic GPL's of old, this is much more lithe and approachable, yet it still bears the DNA of this Pauillac estate. It might not possess the flair of other 2019 Left Banks, but that it is not what I seek from this estate. Classy and full of breeding - quintessential Pauillac. Drink 2025-2060. 94 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is sublime. Silky, perfumed and light on its feet, the 2019 is a wine of grace and finesse. Crushed red berry fruit, sweet red berries, mint, spice, blood orange and mint give the 2019 a brilliant aromatic register that adds to the wine's total sense of allure. The 2019 is such a classy wine. Drink 2029-2049. 96 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Grand-Puy-Lacoste exhibits notions of minty cassis, plums, loamy soil, burning embers and cigar wrapper, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety palate that’s deep and concentrated, its generous core of lively fruit concealing an elegantly muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannin. Consisting of fully 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is another true classic from the Borie family. Drink 2027-2065. This 90-hectare estate (some 60 hectares of which are in production), situated in a single block on a gravel dome around the château, has long been a favorite among Bordeaux insiders. Under Emeline Borie's direction, subtle refinements have been made: more than 100 soil pits were dug to better understand the château's geology; herbicides have never been used here, but now 20 hectares are devoted to a trial of organic farming; since 2013, a vertical press is used; and since 2012, the new vintage goes to barrel immediately after malolactic fermentation, before being blended early in the new year. Today's wines are a touch more immediately charming and structurally polished than the Grand-Puy-Lacoste of fifteen years ago, yet they have lost none of their classic Cabernet-driven Pauillac character. I regularly purchase this estate's wines for my own cellar, and the 2019 vintage is certainly no exception! 96 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Janauri 2022) Inky and glass-staining damson colour, with enjoyable aromatics, slow building power that is tempered and softened by waves of violet and peony. Knitted down, muscular tannins build a wall around the black fruits. This is concentrated, signature Pauillac just as it was En Primeur, majoring on pencil lead, cloves, liquorice and cocoa bean. 41hl/h yield, 75% new oak. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) Lovely depth of colour, a big difference between the 1st and 2nd wine in this vintage, this just screams Pauillac with its pencil lead, charcoal and cassis notes. Glass-staining colour, extremely silky, with liquorice and chocolate adding layers without taking away from the purity of expression. Fine tannic hold, tons of character and clear longevity - this is a brilliant wine, easily equal to the 2018 and approaching the 2016. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2046. 94+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot, the 2019 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is deep garnet-purple in color. It gives subtle, slowly emerging scents of juicy blackcurrants, redcurrant jelly, and ripe plums, plus suggestions of cinnamon stick, chocolate box, camphor, and fallen leaves. Medium-bodied, the palate is firm and grainy with lovely tension cutting through the intense black and red fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. 17/20 Jancis Robinson - jancisrobinson.com (Februari 2023) Tasted blind. Perfumed, flattering nose, with a sweet, gentle palate. Easy to like, even if it’s not the most complex wine. Lots of tannin on the end. Very sweet. 14.5%. Drink 2030–2048. 17,5+/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot. Barrel sample. Deep colour. A refined classic. Fragrant, lifted dark-fruit nose with blackcurrant notes to the fore. Super palate, the tannins plentiful and firm but offering a velvety texture at the same time. Lots of freshness, even a saline edge. Builds to a long, dry, mouth-cleansing finish. Drink 2030 – 2045. 96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (December 2021) This is a very polished young wine with lemon-rind, blackcurrant, cedar and lavender character. It’s full, yet so refined and sophisticated, with floral undertones to the pretty fruit. The tannins are intense and long. Give this at least five or six years to soften. Try after 2025. 94-95 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) A firm, silky red with intense, chewy tannins, showing structure, beauty and intensity. Full-bodied, tight and chewy. Racy and focused GPL. Shows a more refined structure than the 2018, but serious. 97 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (Juni 2020) 95-97 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) Black currants, flowers, cedar, cigar wrapper and cassis meld together on the nose. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, round, concentrated, lush, deep and packed with sweet, juicy cassis and blackberries, ripe tannins, and a finish marked by the purity in the fruit with the structure of Pauillac. This will age gracefully for at least 3 decades or longer. 93 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN DE FAMILIE BORIE Ce vin présente une robe d’un rouge pourpre intense, profond et brillant. Les arômes de fruits noirs puissants, en particulier la cerise bigarreau, explosent au nez, renforçant le caractère de raisin bien mûrs tout en gardant une très belle fraîcheur. Le tout est rehaussé d’une pointe d’épices et de menthol. En bouche, l’attaque est très dense, précise et complexe et elle se prolonge sur un milieu de bouche et une finale extrêmement aromatiques et équilibrées associées à une belle fraîcheur. Le tout est soutenue par des tannins qui allient puissances et élégances et déjà bien fondus. Grand Puy LacosteChateau Grand Puy Lacoste in Pauillac is gerespecteerd en geliefd. Hun wijnen zijn zuiver en precies gevinifiëerd en de kwaliteit is er steeds betrouwbaar. Hun ware Pauillac-persoonlijkheid vertaalt zich in fijne aroma’s van cassis en potlood, eigen aan oudere Cabernets op een arme terroir van Graves pauillacaises. Grand Puy Lacoste is 90 hectare groot waarvan 55 hectare is beplant met ¾ Cabernet Sauvignon en ¼ Merlot. Onmiddellijk buren zijn Pontet Canet en Mouton Rothschild. De grootste successen van Grand Puy Lacoste zijn 1949, 1982, 1990, 2005, 2009 en 2010. Weet U waarom de Chinezen hem “the Crocodile wine” noemen? De tweede wijn van Grand Puy Lacoste is Lacoste Borie. BorieFrançois-Xavier Borie is de eigenaar van Grand Puy Lacoste en Haut Batailley, die beide in 1855 geklasseerd warden als Cinquième Grand Cru Classé. Hij wordt bijgestaan door zijn dochter Emeline. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||