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 | 2019 Ch. Clinet - Pomerol | € 60,90 (€ 73,69) |
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Onze proefnotitie hoeft eigenlijk niet meer: Clinet 2019 is ondertussen uitverkocht. Maar dit is al te cynisch en de wijn is nochtans één en al jovialiteit. Daarom in 't kort: het is een Wunderkind van een Pomerol. Virtuositeit wordt ten top gedreven in een ware Amadeus-stijl. Als gentle giant herinnert deze perfecte Clinet zonder meer aan de legendarische 1989 en waarom de grote Robert Parker hem indertijd een perfecte 100-score verleende. Neal Martin heeft het ook door, ere aan wie ere toekomt. We stemmen in, zonder bémol. IN DE PERS 98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Clinet has maintained the stunning delineation that I discerned from the barrel sample. Pure black cherries, hints of cassis and wilted violet scents unfold in the glass with effortless ease, and the oak (75% new, 25% used for 18 months) is neatly integrated. The poised palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, with fine-grained tannins and disarming mineralité, particularly toward the finish, which delivers tremendous length and saliva-inducing salinity on the aftertaste. There is a pleasing strictness to this Clinet that is apposite to the flamboyant and decadent wines of the Nineties. This Clinet is one of Ronan Laborde's great achievements. Drink 2027-2060. 97-99 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Clinet is just so fragrant on the nose: black and red fruit vying for attention, iris and incense, touches of truffle in the background. The purity that Ronan Laborde and his team have achieved should be applauded. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, perfect acidity, brilliant focus and a killer sense of tension on the finish. This is a stunning Clinet, the best that I have encountered in barrel over 20 years of tasting. That creamy texture takes your breath away. Up there with the very best - a Clinet that rivets you to the spot. Drink 2025 – 2060. 95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Clinet is fabulous, just as it was in barrel. A wine of substance and depth, the 2019 has a sense of poise that is so appealing. Crushed flowers, spice, menthol and dried herbs add pretty savory top notes. The 2019 is impeccable from start to finish. Drink 2027-2029. 93-95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Clinet is a dark, sensual wine. Grilled herbs and crushed flowers give the 2019 a pretty, savory dimension to play off the natural potency of the year. A virile and imposing Pomerol, Clinet has plenty to offer, especially once the tannins soften. Two thousand nineteen is an outstanding vintage for Clinet. 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Clinet is showing beautifully in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cherries and berries mingled with hints of violets, licorice, subtle spices and smoke. Full-bodied, sensual and velvety, it's seamless and vibrant, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, resonant finish. This precise, concentrated wine is the finest young Clinet I've ever tasted, and it exemplifies the tremendous progress that Ronan Laborde has made at this estate over the last decade. Drink 2025-2055. Ronan Laborde is producing the best wines of his career at this Pomerol reference point. Some eight hectares produce Clinet, much of the vineyards being located around the château in the lieu-dit that lends it its name, complemented by a parcel by the church and another not far from the headquarters of the syndicat viticole. Today, these holdings are planted with some 80% Merlot, but before phylloxera, Cabernet Sauvignon was widely planted in this sector, and today, Laborde is replacing Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon (he retains a parcel of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon dating back to 1950). Vines are hedged at 1.5 meters, and cover crops help to manage water in the iron-rich clays near the château, allowing access by tractor even after recent rainfall. In the winery, Laborde now employs small stainless steel tanks that permit parcel-by-parcel vinification, and a vertical press has been the order of the day since as long ago as 2001. What's really evolved in recent years is the barrel program: oak is long-seasoned (4-5 years), and some large formats have joined the classic 225-liter barriques; but above all, lighter, less impactful toasts are now chosen, meaning Clinet's 80% new oak is much more discreet in its aromatic and textural contribution than was the case a decade ago. Laborde's 2018 turned out brilliantly in that warm, dry vintage, and the 2019 looks to be even better. 95-97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com (Juli 2020) The 2019 Clinet is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested from the 23rd of September to the 3rd of October. The alcohol weighed in at 14.5%. It is aging in French oak barriques, 75% new, using the OXOLINE system in order to minimize stirring. It is expected to age in barrels for 16 months. Opaque purple-black colored, it bursts from the glass with bold scents of ripe black plums, blackberry pie and blueberry compote with an undercurrent of redcurrant jelly, raspberry preserves, licorice, molten chocolate and cardamom with a fragrant waft of red roses. The palate is rich, full-bodied and fantastically opulent, with layers of exotic spices emerging among all the black fruit preserves flavors, framed by velvety tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and hedonic. Drink 2027-2053. 95 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) 17/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel sample. Purple-black hue. Concentrated cassis aroma, almost like a fruit liqueur. Palate more subdued but the fruit is generous and there’s plenty of zest and drive. Tannins and oak integrated. Clean, long finish. Drink 2027 – 2040. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) A firm, silky red with blackberry, black-olive, green-olive and stone aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied with juicy fruit and a flavorful finish. The balance and texture of this wine is exceptional. 94-96 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 95 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (Juni 2020) 96-98 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) 95-96 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN RONAN LABORDE Le Clinet 2019 dévoile une robe profonde, grenat foncé. Son nez arbore une vaste palette fruitée, de fraises des bois, de cerises griottes, de framboises, myrtilles et crème de cassis. Cet ensemble se complète d’arômes de pâtisseries et d’épices orientales. En bouche, la texture douce et crémeuse précède des saveurs fruitées, complexes, puissantes et chaleureuses, et s’enrichit de grains fins et de chocolat. D’une grande énergie, la longueur s’avère intense et scintillante. Il s’agit d’un vin riche, puissant, qui dispose d’un grand potentiel de garde, venant agrémenter le palmarès du domaine. ClinetChateau Clinet in Pomerol is eigendom van een bijzonder sympathieke en ambitieuze marathonloper, Ronan Laborde. Zijn excellente, ernstige en intense wijnen zijn "incontournables". De kleine wijngaard van 10,74 hectare is een patchwork van percelen op klei en graves aan de rand van het plateau van Pomerol nabij l’Eglise Clinet, Clos l’Eglise en Feytit Clinet. 88% Merlot en 12% Cabernet Sauvignon (en geen Cabernet Franc meer sinds 2018) aangeplant op een densiteit van 6.600 tot 7.200 wijnstokken per hectare (voor de meest recente aanplantingen). De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard was 41 jaar in 2018. Er wordt gewerkt in lutte raisonnée, zonder gebruik van nadelige CMR-producten (carcinogic, mutagenic or reprotoxic). De wijnranken worden geleid tot 1,75m hoogte. De productie beperkt zich tot 4.000 kisten. De wijnjaren 1989 en 2009 werden bekroond met perfecte parkerscores. Michel Rolland is hier de consulent. |