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 | 2019 Ch. Pichon Comtesse de Lalande - Pauillac GCC | € 232,00 (€ 280,72) |
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Pichon Lalande 2019 is onze wijn van het jaar op de linkeroever. Het is een fenomenale Grand Vin, een ware Pauillac en de nieuwste mijlpaal in zijn recente ontwikkelingen die deze Second Grand Cru Classé animeren. Nicolas Glumineau, die eerder al verantwoordelijk was voor de magische Montroses van 2009 en 2010, signeert hier werderom een perfecte wijn. Het glas kleurt diep robijnrood en de neus verleent crémeux aan gepolijst zwart fruit. De Comtesse is opgezet rond de smakelijke tongval van zuivere zwarte bessen, aardse tinten en Havana. Deze intense diva wordt als een perfect versmolten geheel op het scène geplaatst. De finale reikt mijlenver om de aria op een hoogtepunt te kunnen vervolmaken. Het assemblage 2019 is haast identiek als deze van 2017 en 2018: 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot en 6% Cabernet Franc. Verwacht 18 à 19 maand élevage in 60% nieuwe eik en de rest in barriques d’un an. Heraanplanting is aanhangig maar het rendement blijft nog op 42hl/ha. Het millésime 2019 schonk ons dus een absoluut grandioze en eigenlijk perfecte Pichon Lalande! Als u weet dat Neal Martin oordeelt dat deze jonge wijn 1982 en 2016 overtreft, is twijfel ondenkbaar… Beperkt beschikbaar, maar troost is binnen handbereik met de sensationele second vin: Pichon Comtesse Réserve, het voormalige Réserve de la Comtesse. Beide wijnen zijn emblematisch voor het succes van 2019 op Pichon Lalande, en als journalisten de perfecte 100-score in het vizier plaatsen voor de Grand Vin weet u snel hoe laat het is... IN DE PERS 97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2019 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande demands more coaxing from the glass, but it rewards patience with compelling graphite-infused black fruit, unapologetically classic in style, the terroir flooding through. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful sapidity, gorgeous balance and a pure yet powerful finish that makes you wish you could build a time machine and taste it in 20 years. Sublime. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. Drink 2026-2060. 99 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The sample of 2019 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande sent to me last year was an absolute show-stopper. The bouquet needs a few minutes to open up, delivering intense black fruit, crushed stone and incense with time in the glass. Yes, the nose does remind me of Latour! The medium-bodied palate is endowed with unerring symmetry and poise. This is a powerful, multi-dimensional Pichon-Lalande, extremely precise, very deep and long. The 60% new oak is seamlessly integrated and feels just right. It reminds me of the 1996 in some ways, but with more finesse on the finish. Stunning. 14.12% alcohol. Drink 2026-2065. 98-100 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked 16 September to 8 October. It has a showstopping nose: intense black fruit laced with graphite and mint. (Whisper it...it reminds me of their First Growth next door neighbor.) The palate is underpinned by very refined tannins that cradle what may well be the purest fruit you will find in this vintage. Unbelievably precise all the way through to the finish, I admit staring at my glass trying to find fault with it. Unless winemaker Nicolas Glumineau gets distracted by the new Cure album and makes a catastrophic error during the rest of its élevage, which he is not prone to doing, you are not looking at a modern-day 1982 or 2016, but something even better and more profound. Tasted from three bottles with consistent notes. Drink 2026 - 2065. 98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) One of the most elegant Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande I can remember tasting. The 2019 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is very clearly one of the wines of the year. Statuesque in its bearing, the 2019 possesses tremendous depth and intensity right out of the gate. Dark fruit, gravel, smoke, licorice and incense draw the taster in. The 2019 is like a great book. You don't want to put it down. Each taste reveals a new layer, a new shade of nuance. The 2019 is quite simply one of the most elegant renditions I have tasted recently. That said, it is also incredibly austere and in need of cellaring. Don't miss it. Tasted three times. Drink 2034-2059. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande evokes a feeling of real power and breadth, with tons of energy giving the wine drive that builds into the finish. Time in the glass brings out the aromatic intensity of the Cabernets. Dark fruit, menthol, rose petal, licorice and grilled herbs all flesh out over time. The 2019 Pichon Comtesse is a very serious wine that almost certainly has more to say than it is willing to express at this stage. Tasted two times. General Manager and Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau describes 2019 as a year of drought, until rains arrived at the end of July and middle of August, which were very important for the maturation of the Cabernets in mid-October. Yields were 42 hectoliters per hectare, which is typical for the château. Glumineau added that the Merlots showed a wider range of quality, while the Cabernets were more homogeneous. In tasting, I found the two wines more differentiated stylistically, which has not often been the case. 98 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) One of the wines of the vintage, the 2019 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande soars from the glass with complex aromas of wild berries, tobacco leaf, loamy soil, burning embers and hints of violets and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and complete, it’s velvety and seamless, with a broad attack and a multidimensional core of lively, succulent fruit. Concluding with a long, expansive finish, it’s a remarkable young Pauillac that will offer many years of thrilling drinking. Congratulations to Nicolas Glumineau and his team, who are ushering in a new golden age at an address where standards were always very high. Drink 2027-2065. Since joining Pichon Lalande just after the 2012 harvest, Nicolas Glumineau has made a number of changes. In the vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon is increasingly displacing Merlot; the soils are worked less frequently and cover crops are employed; canopy management has evolved, with both fruiting canes now trained in the same direction—Glumineau would like to trail pruning "Guyot simple" if Pauillac's cahier de charges (appellation rules) permitted it; and 27 hectares of the estate's 102 are being farmed organically. A new, highly functional winery and cellar equips him with stainless steel tronconic tanks adapted to parcel-by-parcel vinification. Cooperage choices, too, have been refined (some 65% new oak is the order of the day), and the duration of élevage has been extended to 18-19 months in barrel before racking to tank before bottling. The result? Even as Cabernet Sauvignon occupies a more and more important place in the blend, Pichon Lalande has never been more seamless and sensual, exhibiting a degree of structural refinement combined with remarkable complexity and depth of flavor. The 2019 has turned out brilliantly, and readers will have a hard time choosing whether 2019 or 2016 is the greatest vintage of the decade at this address: I've hedged my bets and bought both. 98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (November 2022 A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande spent 18 months in oak, 60% of it new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is a little closed to begin, unravelling with coaxing to offer notes of kirsch, dark chocolate, cardamom, and rose oil over a core of blackcurrant cordial, star anise, and mossy tree bark. Medium to full-bodied, firm, and with exquisitely fine-grained tannins, it has impactful, very tightly wound fruit layers and incredible grace, finishing very long with lots of mineral sparks. 97-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Juni 2020) A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc (with no Petit Verdot this year), the 2019 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande came in at an alcohol of 14.15% and a pH of 3.7. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it sails out of the glass with a stunning array of Black Forest cake, warm cassis and wild blueberries scents with underlying hints of Morello cherries, redcurrant jelly, pencil shavings, menthol and aniseed with a touch of charcoal. The medium-bodied palate packs a lot of fruit into an elegant package, featuring very finely grained, silt-like tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with loads of lingering mineral and exotic spice accents. 98 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Januari 2022) You feel the clever construction of this wine from the start, and the architecture shines through. A linen edge of the tannins, with grain and texture that holds things back through the mid palate. Subdued power at the moment, with hints of butterscotch and black chocolate, bilberry fruits that are not overly sweet but have succulence and impact. Good quality, one to cellar and look forward to opening in the future. 60% new oak, 4hl/h yield. No Petit Verdot in this vintage. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) A serious, muscled Pichon Comtesse that grabs you from the first nose. The width and texture is evident, feeling both more plush and supple in its fruit character. It's elegant and balanced but packed full of textured raspberries, blueberries and cassis, juicy, with a rise on the finish and clear tannic grip. Very Pauillac in style, more so than the 2018 with great length. Not as structured as the 2016 or the 2010 but not far off and this is easily one of the wines of the vintage. Its heft shares some similarities to its neighbour Latour, which is not always the case in this most feminine of Pauillac wines. Closes down pretty quickly on the finish, suggesting the initial rich fruit is a hint of what is to come but that it will take its time to show itself in bottle. Tasted twice, four weeks apart and it delivered both times. No Petit Verdot in this vintage. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2040. 17/20 Jancis Robinson - jancisrobinson.com (Februari 2023) Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Weak rim. Biscuity, alluring nose. Dry finish. Correct without being mind-blowing. All the ingredients are there without being knit together. 14%. Drink 2028– 2044. 94-97 Julia Harding - jancisrobinson.com (December 2021) 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. More leafy than most of the Pauillacs in this small selection, very much what I expect from Comtesse. Dry, firm, elegant texture, really elegant in its dry finesse. Very cassis-focused, dry and refined. 14.1%. Drink 2030–2045. 18/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Barrel sample. Just so poised and refined. Fragrant and pure with leafy, garden-fresh, dark-fruit aromatics. Long and linear with plenty of fruit and drive. A profusion of tannins but the resolution adjusted to rein-in power. Shades of the benchmark 1996 with an increase of Cabernet in the blend. Drink 2028 – 2045. 97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2022) Classic aromas of lead-pencil shavings, blackcurrants and blueberries, as well as some as, following through to a full body with polished tannins and a fresh, delicious finish. Wonderful crafted. Try after 2025. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) Crazy aromas of sweet tobacco and black fruit. Tar and lead pencil, too. Blackcurrants and blackberries. Solid core of fruit and ripe tannins here. It’s full-bodied and chewy. Extremely long. Fascinating wine. Structure with elegance. Extremely creamy and very, very melted together. A classically proportioned wine. 71% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot and 6% cabernet franc. 99 Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com (April 2022) Pure class, the 2019 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De Lalande is another brilliant wine from director Nicolas Glumineau that checks in at the top of the vintage. A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc that was harvested from mid-September through October 8th. Brought up in roughly 60% new French oak, it hit 14.1% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.7. More elegant and poised from bottle than barrel, it offers a brilliant perfume of crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, tobacco leaf, damp earth, and graphite. Deep, full-bodied, and pure perfection on the palate, it has this incredible marriage of Latour-like stature and regalness buffered by wonderful, sexy, seamless fruit, which no doubt comes from the higher Merlot content and makes Comtesse de Lalande so singular and unique. It builds slowly with time in the glass and has remarkable purity of fruit, ultra-fine tannins, perfect balance, and a finish that just begs you to pour another glass. It has a seductive, seamless profile that offers pleasure even today (although it needs lots of air to show at its best) yet needs 7-8 years of bottle age to hit the early stages of its prime drink window and will evolve for another 40-50 years if stored properly. 96 James Molesworth - winespectator.com (Februari 2022) 97-99 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 97 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (Juni 2020) 98-100 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) 97 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN NICOLAS GLUMINEAU Les notes de Cèdre, de cacao et de crème pâtissière marquent immédiatement le nez de ce vin qui exhale ensuite des notes pures et enivrantes de cassis et pivoine. Long et épais, la structure aromatique évolue depuis des notes classiques de cédrat et épices (clou de girofle, poivre noir), vers des nuances gourmandes de praliné et cassis. L’attaque est nette, la bouche homogène. On note un milieu de bouche très aérien et une finale gourmande et saline, étirée grâce à des tanins soyeux, précis et bien intégrés. Pichon ComtessePichon Lalande is de Amazone onder de wijnen en blijft zeer populair. Ook in Azië spreken hun licht exotische, kruidige karakter, het volmondig fruit en de gepolijste textuur aan. Het zijn elegante wijnen met ambitie. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc en 5% Petit Verdot. De percelen van deze mooie wijngaard van 89 hectare dragen mooie namen als Les Ardileys, le Moulin Riche, Longueville, Grand'Plante, la Chapelle, Virginie, Sophie, Marie-Joséphine... De ene ligt nabij de Gironde langs Latour, de andere strekken zich uit over het plateau ten Zuiden van Pauillac en we vinden zelfs 11 hectare aan de overkant van het beekje de "jalle" in Saint Julien. Zoals bij Palmer in Margaux brengt een relatief hoge proportie Merlot in het assemblage vrij zachte, soepele wijnen. Pichon Lalande was de bruidschat van Pierre Mazure de Rauzan toen zijn dochter Thérèse huwde met Jacques de Pichon Longueville in 1700. In 1850 werd 3/5 geërfd door de drie zusters van de Baron Pichon en in 1926 samengebracht in Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. Vanaf 1978, onder het bewind van "la Générale", de dynamische Madame de Lencquesaign, werd de rivaliteit met overbuur Pichon Baron aangewakkerd. Vandaag beheert Nicolas Glumineau deze Grand Cru Classé namens de eigenaar sinds 2007, het Champagnehuis Louis Roederer. De investeringen zijn groots opgevat; de nieuwe installaties laten voortaan perfecte "vinification parcellaire" toe en werken geheel op zwaartekracht... Maar het uitzicht over Château Latour en de Gironde blijft enig! In de komende wijnjaren verwachten wij zonder meer grandioze wijnen van Pichon Lalande, de legendarische 1982 achterna... | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||