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 | 2019 Ch. Trotanoy - Pomerol | € 265,00 (€ 320,65) |
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Slechts 7,2 hectare graves argileuses en argiles noires sur crasse de fer, en bijgevolg een kleine productie. Er is er helaas niet voor iedereen. Deze 100% Merlot vertoont een ronduit bloedstollende majesteit. Het zwarte fruit en de wonderbaarlijke tannine maken van deze typisch zelfzekere Trotanoy een monumentale wijn. Hij is zichzelf in authenticiteit en onomstotelijke klasse. Hij is mateloos intens, perfect opgebouwd rond magnifiek zwart fruit en een zondbloed aan perfecte tannine. De finale expandeert eindeloos met aisance. Kan een wijn beter zijn? Eigenlijk niet. Kan een terroir mooier zijn? Het vierkant werd op één dag geplukt en de rest is geschiedenis. Trotanoy 2019 is een evidentie en het is één van de absolute wijnen van het millésime 2019. IN DE PERS 100 Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com (April 2022) Reminding me a little of the 1998, the 2019 Château Trotanoy is all Merlot sourced from a 7-hectare vineyard planted on dark clay and gravelly soils. A prodigious wine in every way, it offers a serious, dense, powerful, full-bodied style as well as notes of ripe black cherries, damp earth, tobacco, cedar pencil, and graphite. As with the other top wines in the vintage, it has an incredible sense of purity and precision, building, firm tannins, awesome mid-palate depth, and a huge finish. It's not for those seeking instant gratification and is much more structured and backward than I would have thought from barrel. It needs a solid decade of bottle age and will have 40+ years of longevity. It's another brilliant, brilliant wine from this team that I wish every reader could taste. 99 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Trotanoy is blessed with ineffable delineation on the pure, focused nose, which features touches of pencil lead and sous-bois embroidered through a mélange of red and black fruit. Astounding. The palate is perfectly balanced with seamlessly integrated oak and a cashmere texture, complete and oozing effortless class. I don’t know whether to drink or elope with this Pomerol. Better, perhaps, to stick it away in a cool damp cellar for a decade and then make all your friends jealous when you serve it. A serious contender for wine of the vintage. Drink 2028-2060. 97-99 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Trotanoy was picked on a single day - 21 September and is matured in 50% new oak. Now this has a more backward bouquet than say Hosanna or La Fleur-Pétrus, biding its time before revealing extraordinarily pure black fruit laced with ethereal crushed stone and discrete blood orange scents. It displays astonishing delineation. The palate is utterly harmonious, quite dense yet refined and graceful. Hints of dark chocolate and truffle emerge towards the finish as it fans out gloriously. Quite simply, one of the best Pomerols...again. Drink 2028 - 2060. 97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Trotanoy is powerful and brooding, and yet it is also less forbidding at this stage than most vintages. The feeling is one of breadth and gravitas, as black fruit, gravel, smoke, tar and incense lend distinctly sepia-toned inflections throughout. Trotanoy needs time, as it always does, but the 2019 should start drinking well on the earlier side, in relative terms, of course. Drink 2034-2069. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Trotanoy is a powerful, searing wine. Far from an eaysgoing 2019, Trotanoy is going to demand cellaring. Today, the tannins are front and center, but there is enough persistence to get an impression of what is to come. Trotanoy is often a big, potent Pomerol. In 2019, those signatures are amplified in dramatic fashion, as the fruit really enrobes the tannins, resulting in a Trotanoy unlike any I have ever tasted. Christian Moueix adds that he harvested the entire vineyard in a single day whereas the gravel parcels are usually picked a week before the portions planted on clay. 99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The deep garnet-purple colored 2019 Trotanoy is 100% Merlot. It storms out of the glass with powerful earth-inspired scents of crushed rocks, fertile loam, iron ore, and truffles with a core of ripe plums and mulberries, plus hints of star anise and candied violets. Full-bodied, super-concentrated, and with a very firm, grainy backbone, the palate delivers compelling texture and a firework display of spices and minerals, finishing with epic length. The absolute epitome of great Pomerol, this is a legendary showing for Trotanoy. 95+ William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The most powerful wine in the Mouiex portfolio this year is the 2019 Trotanoy, a rich, muscular effort that is also unusually open out of the gates for a young wine from this estate. Offering up aromas of cherries, dark berries, cedarwood, rich spices, sweet soil tones and creamy new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and textural, with a lavish attack, notable concentration and plenty of ripe tannin that asserts itself on the youthfully chewy finish. Drink 2029-2059. 97-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Juni 2020) The opaque purple-black colored 2019 Trotanoy slowly emerges from the glass with mystic notes of incense, iron ore, woodsmoke, black truffles and fragrant earth, giving way to a powerful core of ripe black plums, black cherry compote and mulberries with hints of graphite, crushed rocks and moss plus an enchanting waft of iris. The medium to full-bodied palate reveals a heart-thumping interplay between profoundly rich black fruit and an incredible array of mineral and floral sparks, supported by firm-yet-approachable ripe, rounded tannins and tons of freshness, finishing on a persistent ferrous note. Just magic. 97 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Januari 2022) Black cherry by the bucket load, muscular and just a little monolithic at this early stage, the standing stone of Pomerol, so effortlessly itself. This really does take its time, but there are waves of flavour that slowly but surely appear. Chiselled black chocolate shavings, smoky espresso, rosemary, pencil lead, truffles and a wall of tannins. A flash of bitter spice on the finish. Harvest September 21, with everything coming in during just one day, 32hl/ha yield, and unusually only Merlot as parts of the vineyard are being replanted. This needs time to unwind, and I may be underestimating how high it will go. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) As is so often the case, a different frame and a different conversation is going on at Trotanoy. It's a little darker fruit than many in the vintage, with firm and plentiful tannins, really knitted down cassis and bilberry that opens up through the palate and adds on layers of earth, slate, liquorice, coffee and chocolate, but all holding themselves back, content to be subtle hints at this stage of the process. Hard to argue with. A yield of 32hl/ha. Unusually 100% Merlot. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2048. 17,5/20 Jancis Robinson - jancisrobinson.com (Februari 2023) Tasted blind. Dried fruits on the nose. Lots of freshness on the palate and sweet attack. Really dramatic and unignorable. 15%. Drink 2026–2042. 18/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 100% Merlot. Barrel sample. Deep purple-crimson. Massive wine with huge extract but seamlessly contained. Dark, blackcurrant-pastille nose. Masses of dark fruit on the palate offset by a leafy, mineral freshness. Big tannic frame but simultaneously suave and controlled. Just builds and builds. Will definitely make old bones. Drink 2030–2050. 98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Januari 2022) Aromas of peanut brittle, blackberries, crushed stones, violets and blueberries. Full-bodied and powerful with layers of creamy, velvety and juicy tannins. A classic Trotanoy with true character of itself. Wonderful length and character. Best after 2027. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) Wow. So tight with fantastic quality to the exquisite, polished tannins. It’s full-bodied, savory and beautiful. The tannins are nearly perfectly integrated, just melting into the wine. This goes on and on. 97-99 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) Beautifully deep, garnet in color, the wine rocks from the moment you check out the perfume with its all-star cast of roses, star anise, spice, smoked black cherry and plum nuances. Full-bodied, rich and so sexy, it is impossible not to be completely taken over by its decadent array of textures. Concentrated, opulent and velvety, the finish delivers an array of perfectly ripe, Pomerolian fruits with a gorgeous sense of purity. This was so good, I could not stop drinking it. TrotanoyHet basisbeginsel dat Trotanoy leidt is superlatieve majesteit. In zijn zelfzekere en beredeneerde stijl, vertoont het de absolute perfectie die slechts enkele Grands Vins kunnen bereiken. Trotanoy is oud Frans voor « trop anoi » of « trop ennuie » (waarmee verwezen wordt naar de lastige bodembewerking). De wijngaard van zo'n 7,2 hectare is één van de best georiënteerde percelen van Pomerol en is sinds 1953 eigendom van Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix. De bodems kunnen we opsplitsen in enerzijds graves rustend op klei en anderzijds "argiles noires profondes". Beide rusten op een substraat van "crasse de fer" die de wijnen zowel kracht, diepte als complexiteit bezorgen. De wijngaard bleef gedeeltelijk gespaard van de grote vorst die Bordeaux teisterde in de nacht van 19 op 20 februari 1956 en benadert een gemiddelde leeftijd van 35-40 jaar. Hij wordt over het algemeen geplukt over drie halve dagen. De vinificatie gebeurt in ciment en de élevage in de helft nieuwe eik. Trotanoy is uiterst begerenswaardig en grote millésimes mogen vele decennia lang worden gekelderd. Er worden jaarlijks slechts zo’n 2.000 kistjes gemaakt. Trotanoy zet een indrukwekkende reeks prachtige millésimes verder. Trotanoy 2005 tot 2012 rivaliseren telkens met Pétrus. Geen enkele Pomerol, tenzij misschien Lafeur, kan deze status ambiëren. Vroeger, tussen 1960 en 1975, was dit al het geval en nu dus opnieuw... MoueixChristian Moueix is net zoals zijn legendarische vader, Jean-Pierre Moueix, vereenzelvigd met Pomerol. Na zijn studies aan UC Davis eind de jaren 1960, vervoegde hij de Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix waarvan hij de leiding nam. Zijn zoon Edouard staat nu aan zijn zijde. Hij bestuurt een indrukwekkend imperium dat ondermeer La Fleur Pétrus, Trotanoy en Hosanna omvat in Pomerol, Bélair Monange in Saint Emilion en Dominus in Napa Valley. In 2008 werd hij “Decanter Man of the Year”. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||