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 | 2019 Ch. Clerc Milon - Pauillac GCC | € 72,00 (€ 87,12) |
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Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy volgt Philippe Dhalluin op als wijnmaker op Mouton Rothschild vanaf millésime 2020. Onder zijn toezicht won Clerc Milon aan intensiteit en prestige. Hoe besluit hij het eerste luik van zijn carrière? Met allure zo blijkt. Het millésime 2019 biedt zuivere cassis, kruidigheid en mineralitieit. De kern van volmondig zwart fruit verleidt in verkwikkende fraîcheur. Het geheel is onctueux en nobel en de buvabilité is groot. De verklaring voor die allure is dubbel: (i) die frisse verfijning is een kenmerk van 2019 en (ii) 72% Cabernet Sauvignon doet de rest. Dit is een historisch hoog aandeel. Overige cépages zijn 22% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 2% Petit Verdot. Chapeau Jean-Emmanuel: doe zo verder! IN DE PERS 93 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) As I stated in my review from barrel, the 2019 Clerc Milon contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), from massal selection parcels that are reaching maturity. This has a very intense bouquet, perhaps now leaning more toward black than red fruit; iodine, blood orange and graphite scents emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and vivacious, with fine-boned tannins, good focus and a silky-smooth texture toward the graphite-tinged finish. There is more elegance here than I noticed last year. This should evolve into a top-grade Clerc-Milon. Drink 2026-2042. 91-93 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Clerc Milon contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%) as more of their sélection massale comes "on line". It is quite intense on the nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, sous-bois and traces of tobacco. There is a fullness to the aromatics that I appreciate, hints of brown spice emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. This is not a bold, structured Clerc Milon. This feels elegant and refined, gently building to a lightly spiced finish with judicious cracked black pepper and clove notes. Understated and classy. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink: 2024 – 2040. 94 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Clerc Milon is seriously impressive. Dense, plush and explosive, Clerc Milon delivers a captivating mix of inky, dense fruit intermingled with savory accents from the 72% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (the highest since 1986). Dried herbs, tobacco, menthol and licorice weave into the deep, resonant finish. Superb. Drink 2027-2039. 91-93 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) Clerc Milon is especially fine in 2019. Dark and mysterious in the glass, with superb resonance, the 2019 reveals myriad dimensions of its personality with a bit of aeration. The 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest since 1986, very much comes through in the wine's flavor profile and structural feel. Sage, mint, lavender, licorice and spice add complexity to the dark fruit in a Pauillac that delivers the goods. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Clerc Milon is a real success. At more than 70%, this blend contains one of the highest proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon in the property's recent history, and the result is a wine of real nobility. Offering up aromas of violets, wild berries, licorice, loamy soil and cigar wrapper, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with notable depth at the core, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins that assert themselves on the finish. From clay-limestone soils rather than the sandy gravels that characterize d'Armailhac, this is by some margin the more structured and serious of Mouton-Rothschild's two Pauillac stablemates. Drink 2029-2055. 95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2019 Clerc Milon is made from 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple colored, it bursts with black cherry pie, wild blueberries, and cassis with hints of cinnamon stick, cracked pepper, and tilled soil. Medium-bodied, it is very elegant and fresh with firm, fine-grained tannins and lovely freshness supporting the tightly wound fruit, finishing long and perfumed. 92-94+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Juni 2020) The blend this year is 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, harvested from the 19th of September to the 9th of October. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Clerc Milon starts out a little closed and broody, offering notes of tar, chargrill, tapenade and Marmite toast over an emerging core of stewed plums, black cherries and kirsch with a touch of garrigue. The medium-bodied palate delivers loads of freshness with crunchy black fruits and a lively line, backed up by grainy tannins, finishing long and savory. 95 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Januari 2022) Beautifully judged extraction of fruit, and a tender quality to the tannins. A touch of gunsmoke on the finish, with a tightrope walk of acidity and concentrated blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. This is confident, precise, not overly generous, but gives the most lovely Pauillac kick. 65% new oak. The last full vintage of Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy at Clerc Milon before he headed over to Mouton Rothschild (with the 2020 working across both Clerc Milon and Mouton). Harvest September 19 to October 9. 95 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) The wine has the highest levels of Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s, and even on the nose you can feel its impact in terms of the depth of tight black fruit. Extremely good quality with fine tannins that build, build, build over the palate, and grip on, forcing you to slow down and pay attention. Beautiful spice with menthol, slate, pencil lead, blackberry and blackcurrant. An exciting wine with real energy and forward motion, helped to withstand the summer heat by its position by the river, and the fact that the average age of the vines at Clerc Milon is almost 50 years. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Jean Emmanuel Danjoy's last outing doing the full vintage at Clerc Milon before he heads over to Mouton as technical director. Drinking Window: 2028 – 2044. 93 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2022) Another beautiful effort from this team, the 2019 Château Clerc Milon is 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, from vines just across the street from Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Mouton Rothschild. Brought up in a mix of new and used barrels, it has a healthy ruby/plum color to go with a great nose of ripe red and black fruits supported by some classic Pauillac lead pencil, tobacco, and spice box notes. I love its overall balance, it's medium-bodied, has silky tannins, and the fresher, elegant style of the vintage. I wouldn't call it mid-weight, but I compared this to the 2014 on release, and I still think that comparison holds, although there's a touch more length and intensity in the 2019. This will drink well today with a decant (I followed this bottle for two days) and will shine for a good two decades. 17/20 Julia Harding - jancisrobinson.com (December 2021) 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Black core with black-cherry rim. Charry, smoky nose entangled with pure cassis fruit. Fragrant and elegant. Dry and elegant in tannin texture too, even if it is all rather withheld at the moment. Firm, savoury, so dark, with a rocky mineral finish. 13.5%. Drink 2030-2045. 17+/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Juni 2020) 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Barrel sample. Dense, reserved, even broody. Broader across the palate but with real length and drive. Good fruit weight. Firm but very fine tannins. Chalky freshness through and through. Almost but not quite on the right bank. Drink 2027 – 2040. 96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Januari 2022) Aromas of crushed stone, blackcurrants and blackberries. Full-bodied with extremely well-crafted tannins that are chewy and layered, yet polished and fantastic. Love the finish. 72% cabernet sauvignon, 25% petit verdot, 22% merlot and 4% cabernet franc. Drink after 2026. 94-95 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) A very tight, precise red with super fine tannins that are tight and focused. Medium-to full-bodied with linear tannins and a bright, vivid finish. It’s leaner and refined. Precise and driven. This is a very cabernet sauvignon-driven Clerc with 76% cabernet sauvignon. 94-95 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 94 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (Juni 2020) 93-95 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) 95-96 Terre de Vins – terredesvins.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN JEAN-EMMANUEL DANJOY La robe est grenat aux reflets pourpres. Elégant et raffiné, le nez exhale des arômes floraux évoluant à l’aération sur des notes de cassis et de bâton de réglisse. L’attaque ample et onctueuse se montre séduisante par la complexité de son bouquet, où les parfums de céréales toastées et de violette, accompagnent magnifiquement les saveurs de fruits mûrs. Le milieu de bouche est soutenu par des tanins d’une grande qualité, denses et veloutés. La finale saline et légèrement mentholée se prolonge sur des nuances chocolatées. Clerc MilonClerc Milon is een Cinquième Grand Cru Classé en 1855 en behoort toe aan Mouton Rothschild sinds 1970. De wijngaard van 40 hectare grenst aan Mouton en Lafite in Pauillac en is beplant met 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot en 1% Cabernet Franc. In 2007 werd de cuvier volledig vernieuwd met oog voor duurzaamheid. Het zijn heerlijke wijnen waarvan de neus dikwijls herinnert aan zwarte olijfjes. De recente wijnen van Clerc Millon worden gemaakt door een gedreven team met Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy aan het hoofd en zijn van hoog niveau. DhalluinWijnmaker Philippe Dalhuin zette orde op zaken op Mouton Rothschild: enkel druiven geplukt op de historische kern van de wijngaard (60% van de oppervlakte) komen nog in aanmerking voor de Grand Vin. Een nieuwe cuverie werd gebouwd om met nieuwe, kleinere cuves preciezere vinificaties te kunnen doorvoeren. Onder “druk” van buurman Pontet Canet slaat het team van Mouton met Château Clerc Millon resoluut de groene weg in. "Second je fus, Mouton ne change"? Ondertussen nam Jean Emmanuel Donjoy zijn functie over. |