 | 2019 Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte - Pessac Léognan GCC | € 88,20 (€ 106,72) |
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IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is almost identical to the sample bottle that I received last year. On the nose, mirabelle, orange blossom, jasmine and wild peach scents burst from the glass, then gain more refinement with air. The palate is very well balanced, with superb acidity that cuts through the concentrated flavors of pineapple, tangerine, white peach, and just the right amount of bitterness on the finish to bring you back for another sip. This is an excellent Smith Haut Lafitte that should age well over the next 20+ years. Drink 2024-2048. 96 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is a total stunner. All the elements come together so gracefully. Silky and pliant, the Blanc has terrific depth, but it doesn't feel at all like a wine from a warm vintage. Orchard fruit, mint, fig, lemon oil and white flowers flesh out in a silky, nuanced Blanc that is captivating and exquisite from the very first taste. The 2019 is simply fabulous. Tasted two times. Terrific. Drink 2023-2034. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc has turned out very well in bottle, reflecting the estate's volition to craft more structured, age-worthy whites. Offering up aromas of gooseberry, nectarine, mint and lemongrass mingled with hints of pastry cream, almond paste and smoke, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a textural attack that segues into a fleshy but promisingly tightly wound mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As usual, the blend features a small percentage of Sauvignon Gris, which brings more dry extract to the ensemble. Drink 2021-2035. Certified organic with the 2019 vintage, this year marks a waypoint—rather than a stopping point—in Smith Haut Lafitte's agronomic journey. The Cathiard family banished herbicides at this address in 1991, radically reducing chemical treatments and suffering the consequences for several years in the form of much diminished yields (today, happily, materiel and techniques are more sophisticated). In addition to organic methods, cover crops have been deployed on the vineyard's central blocks and western band, where soils are less well drained. Hedges have been planted to encourage biodiversity, and ultraviolet treatments are being trialed as an alternative to copper sulfate. In addition to such initiatives, the technical team is adapting to a warmer climate: that means picking a touch earlier, certainly, but more importantly, adapting in the vineyards, with somewhat lower canopies and an end to deleafing to retain fresh, vibrant flavors. Winemaking, too, is a little gentler: cool but protracted macerations, with periodic punch-downs, for reds and whole-cluster pressing with an inerted press for whites. This has brought new structural elegance and energy to the estate's wines. It surely helps that as much as possible is done in-house: since 1995, the Cathiards have their own nursery for their own massale selections, in partnership with Bérillon, and barrels are made in the château's own on-site cooperage too, favoring the forests of Tronçais and Jupilles for reds, Loches (which brings tension) for whites. All this is symptomatic of the attention to detail and seriousness that the Cathiards, and their technical director Fabien Teitgen, have brought to this estate; and the result, in 2019, is one of the finest wines they've produced to date. Smith Haut LafitteDe wijngaard van Smith Haut Lafitte is 67 hectare groot. Smith is in essentie een heuvel bedekt met “Graves Günziennes” met als twee voornaamste eigenschappen: een natuurlijke drainage van de bodem en een “effet miroir” voor de zon die reflecteert op de graves. Daar begint alles mee; de rest, te weten de moderne werkwijze, de satellieten en de Vistalys, of de compromisloze toewijding voor het behalen voor superieure kwaliteit zijn legendarisch! Hun tweede wijnen, Les Hauts de Smith en Le Petit Haut Lafitte, biedt schitterende kwaliteit aan een bijzonder redelijke prijs zowel in wit als rood. De beste wijnjaren zijn 2000, 2005, 2010 en natuurlijk 2009, bekroond met een perfecte 100 parkerscore. Een weetje: Smith Haut Lafitte is één van de weinige Châteaux voorzien van een eigen tonnellerie. De andere zijn Haut Brion, Margaux en Lafite. CathiardSmith Haut Lafitte was een halve ruïne in 1990 toen de Daniël en Florence Cathiard het zagen vanuit een helikopter... Ze namen de zaken aan zoals altijd: met gehele toewijding en liefde. Als voormalig lid van het Frans Olympisch skiteam en tevens supermarktmagnaat vond Daniël Cathiard zijn evenknie in zijn dynamische en evenzeer charmante echtgenote Florence. Hun dochters en schoonzonen zijn even bedrijvig: het cosmeticamerk Caudalie en het Hotel & Spa Les Sources de Caudalie, met de restaurants van Smith Haut Lafitte (waarvan één met twee Michelinsterren), zijn in hun beheer. Niemand lijkt deze dynamische familie te kunnen bijbenen... |