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 | 2020 Ch. Pontet Canet - Pauillac GCC | € 86,80 (€ 105,03) |
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Een Pauillac als een parfum: zo subtiel en zo volmaakt lichtvoetig en precies rijp. Het stralend fruit steunt op knapperig fijne tannine en subtiliteit. Spanning en evenwicht sieren elke stap in de sensoriële ervaring. Une certaine idée de l’élégance… Bravo aan de familie Tesseron voor deze sublieme Pontet Canet. Matthieu Bessonnet volgt zijn leermeester Jean-Michel Comme op en slaagde erin de cyclus volledig naar zijn hand te zetten met het hele team. Nacht- en weekendwerk was vereist. Mildiou en droogte werden onder controle gehouden en er werd perfect rijp (en niet overrijp) geplukt vanaf 14 september door 200 sympathieke Portugezen volgens Covid-voorschriften. Elevage in 50% nieuwe eik, 35% amfoor en 15% in barriques van één jaar. IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Pontet Canet, which was picked from 14 September, has quite a plush bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light touches of espresso that hover in the background. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins. There remains a noticeable and indeed pleasurable sprinkling of black pepper complementing that black fruit. Quite structured on the finish (more so than previous vintages) with a gentle but insistent grip. Unquestionably this is more classically styled than the recently blind-tasted 2019 and should mature well in bottle. Excellent. Drink 2028-2055. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2021) The 2020 Pontet Canet, picked from 14 to 30 September, has a well-defined bouquet with scents of black cherries, raspberry, crushed iris and violet. This is demonstrating more delineation than the 2018 that was tasted just a couple of days previously. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a spicy entry, a liberal sprinkling of black pepper and a hint of cedar. Fine structure and focus here. It is fresh with a touch of pencil lead towards the finish, and a touch of pepper lingering on the aftertaste. Here, I can taste Pauillac DNA, which has been my pet peeve in recent vintages. I look forward to revisiting this in bottle. Tasted at the estate with Alfred and Justine Tesseron.Drink 2027-2053. 95+ Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Pontet Canet is a potent, brooding wine that really seems to reflect the richness of the year in its flavor profile and overall feel. Today, the 2020 is quite dark and somber, although aeration gradually brings out floral top notes that convey freshness. The 2020 is an exotic Pontet Canet that will require time. The 2020 spent 14-16 months in the cellar, in the combination of 50% new oak, 35% amphora and 15% once-used barrels. Drink 2025-2035. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Pontet-Canet is captivating effort from the Tesseron family. The intensely perfumed, savory bouquet is immediately alluring. Deep and substantial, the 2020 is luxuriously rich from start to finish. Swaths of incisive tannin wrap around a core of dark red cherry fruit, gravel, dried herbs and rose petal, and a whole range of floral and savory accents lend aromatic presence. The Pontet-Canet is often a charmer en primeur, but the 2020 comes across as quite serious. I can't wait to see how it develops. As always, one of the signatures of Pontet-Canet is a high proportion of Merlot vis-à-vis its peers among top Left Bank châteaux that lends tremendous midpalate weight. In 2020 production is within historical norms. Mildew pressure was high, but not as severe as in 2018, when two-thirds of the crop was lost in a single day. Harvest took place September 14–30, a bit more of a compact time frame than normal, and a good 7–10 days earlier than is typically the case. Aged in 50% new oak, 35% amphora and 15% once-used barrels. Drink 2035 – 2060. 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) Highly successful Pontet, one of the few Pauillacs that, for me, overperforms on its 2019. Inky purple with ruby reflections in colour. Lots of firm but upright tannins, a good dollop of graphite, pencil lead and cassis bud, there is depth through the mid palate shot through with wild blackberry, hawthorn, sage, rosemary and wild mint. It has personality, and is a little old school in the best possible way. Recommended. They have avoided the over-concentrated feel of some Pauillacs in the vintage, while remaining true to the appellation. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend, 50% new oak 35% amphoras, 15% one-year barrels. First full vintage for Mathieu Bessonnet who replaced the previous long-term director Jean-Michel Comme in 2020. 100% first wine, as it has been for the past four years. 45% will be aged in new oak barrels, 15% one year, 40% in amphoras. The mildew pressure was stressful in the early part of the year, but they had learnt from 2018, and brought in the manpower to get around the whole vineyard in a (very long) day, so their yields ended up being close to normal. Drinking Window 2028 – 2042. 92+ William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2023) While Justine Tesseron declined my request to taste at the property, I was able to acquire a bottle of the 2020 Pontet-Canet for review. The wine starts strong, wafting from the glass with attractive aromas of cherries, sweet berries and plum preserve mingled with lilac and licorice, but that's followed by a medium to full-bodied, firm and extracted palate that lacks the amplitude and flesh to conceal the rather drying tannins which dominate the earthy finish. It's an open secret among Bordeaux insiders that this estate—which has benefited from such significant and laudable investments and which was on such an upward trajectory through 2011—has been a perplexingly erratic performer since 2012, intermingling successful vintages with relative failures, and the 2020 only confirms that. While the 2020 isn't by any means a flawed wine, and time may well be kind to it, it doesn't transcend this estate's fifth growth status, even if this château's terroir clearly has the potential to. Drink 2023-2040. 97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Maart 2023) 96-98+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Pontet-Canet is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, aging in 50% new French oak barriques, 35% concrete amphorae and 15% in one-year-old barrels. Harvest began on the 14th September for the Merlot, and the final lot of Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested on 30th September. Opaque purple-black in color, it needs significant aeration and swirling to coax out evocative notes of black cherry preserves, raspberry pie, blackcurrant pastilles and damp soil, before launching into gorgeous floral and spice notions of red roses, cinnamon stick, star anise and cardamom, with a waft of crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate reveals a lot of depth and polish, delivering mouth-coating red and black fruits with loads of fragrant earth and floral sparks, framed by velvety tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral tinged. This is a singular, fascinating expression of the vintage and highly recommended! 2026 – 2056. 99 James Suckling – jamessuckling (December 2023) 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) This is integrated, with superb density and beauty, offering blackcurrant, mineral and some bark. Full-bodied, yet so polished and refined. Crushed stone. Lots of expression and texture to this wine. Creamy. Pure and precise. Elegant, yet layered. Slightly plusher than the 2019. Dense, yet agile. Fresh as always. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. 50% new oak 15% old oak and 35% concrete amphorae. 17/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Dark, dense and very ripe on the nose. Riper than most Pauillacs tasted. Suave attack then a firm charge of grainy tannin. Fresh and persistent but some chew on the finish. Drink 2027 – 2040. 95-96 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 96-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 97 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 97 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) Pontet CanetPontet Canet zet de trend. Al tien millésimes lang staan biodynamie, harmonie met de natuur en "cette compréhension du vivant" centraal in hun gedetailleerde werkwijze. Elke wijnstok wordt piekfijn gesoigneerd "zoals een individu gewaardeerd wordt voor zijn originaliteit". Daarmee werden op Pontet Canet sommige "traditionele" ingrepen zoals de ébourgeonnage bijvoorbeeld overbodig. De voordelen zijn veelvuldig: natuurlijk lage rendementen (niet meer dan 30 hl/ha), een grotere natuurlijke weerbaarheid van de wijnstok en sneller rijpe druiven. Gaandeweg zijn trekpaarden, koeien en ezels de wijngaard gaan bevolken; elk heeft er zijn functie en nut. Minimalisme typeert de vinificatie. Alles gebeurt handmatig en electriciteit werd verbannen uit het productieproces. Een dertigtal mensen sorteert de oogst en cuves worden pomploos gevuld. Ook het élevage is baanbrekend met amfores van 900 liter. De wijngaard is aangeplant met 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De ware test is in het glas en wijnliefhebbers wereldwijd juichen. Pontet Canet kreeg perfecte parkerscores voor 2009 en 2010. TesseronVooral sinds 1994 maakte Alfred Tesseron klassieke Pauillac van hoog niveau, maar in de recentste wijnjaren overtreft hij niet alleen zichzelf, maar ook de meeste van zijn collega’s. De verbluffende jonge wijnen die hij brengt, aanvankelijk met zijn rechterhand Jean-Michel Comme, maakten van Pontet Canet misschien het meest besproken Château, in en buiten Bordeaux. Dochter Justine Tesseron is op vandaag de knappe Directeur Général, die Pontet Canet leidt samen met broer Noé en nichten Melanie en Phiippine. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||