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 | 2020 Ch. Calon Ségur - Saint Estèphe GCC | € 91,00 (€ 110,11) |
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IN DE PERS 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) The 2020 Calon-Ségur is a brilliant wine from an estate in the ascendant. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, red berries, fresh mint, pencil shavings, violets and rose petals, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a vibrant core of fruit, powdery structuring tannins and a long, perfumed finish. Integrated and harmonious, this pure, concentrated and dynamic wine is one of the finest vintages that Vincent Millet and his team have produced to date. Drink 2027-2055. Calon-Ségur is in the midst of a renaissance. A true "clos," this walled 55-hectare vineyard, the first to be cultivated in Saint-Estèphe, was long planted at a low density of 6,000 vines per hectare. When the cahier des charges (appellation rules) for Saint-Estèphe changed in the recent past, mandating a higher minimum density, the Gasqueton family had already begun replanting at 8,000 vines per hectare. Now estate director Vincent Millet is replanting at 10,000 vines per hectare, and each individual vine has been geo-referenced so that treatments and amendments can be adapted on a vine-by-vine basis within each parcel: the latest in high-tech precision viticulture! The varietal breakdown is changing too, with Cabernet Sauvignon on the increase, currently amounting to around 60% of the estate's holdings and with a target of around 75%. In addition to clones, a massal selection, from parcels near the small chapel just to the east of the château, is underway. Winemaking, too, has been revolutionized: in an entirely new cellar and winery, the grapes are rapidly chilled by passage through a cold tunnel and undergo a three-day cold soak, before a co-inoculated 18- to 21-day maceration with micro-oxygenation. Maturation follows, in new barrels, for 20 months with a traditional racking every three. If all this sounds very detail-oriented, it's because Millet, who boasts a PhD in wine microbiology and spent several years at Château Margaux, is an extremely serious, forward-thinking estate director, and I have no doubt that he is going to unleash all of Calon-Ségur's latent potential. 94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (April 2023) The 2020 Calon-Ségur is allowed to open for over 90 minutes, unfurling in the glass with blackberry and bilberry scents, cedar and floral scents (almost identical to how it showed in barrel.) It just oozes pedigree. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins and quite plush red fruit. It is very well balanced without the backbone and depth of say, Montrose or Cos d'Estournel. It has gained a bit of heft on the finish during its élevage. However, it fans out in assured fashion. This should drink beautifully for 25 to 30 years. 92-94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Calon Ségur was picked from 24-30 September at 33hl/ha and after a 3-day cold soak at 10°C it underwent a 18-21 cuvaison. Matured entirely in new oak, it is backward on the nose, well defined, but broody and requires coaxing from the glass. It eventually reveals blackberry, cedar, wild mint and pressed iris petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a little angular on the entry, good acidity. The second half, though, feels just a little brutish at the moment, granular and grippy on the saline, briny finish. I appreciate the way in which the DNA of this estate comes through, though the 2019 showed far more finesse and panache. It may end up at the top of my banded score if it can pull together more clarity and complexity. Drink 2027 - 2040. 91-93 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Calon Ségur is a dark, brooding wine that is going to need a number of years to become approachable. Black fruit, gravel, smoke, chocolate, leather and licorice give the 2020 its distinctly virile feel. In two separate tastings, the 2020 has come across as quite potent and forbidding. This sample is more convincing than a sample I tasted this past spring, but I still don’t see Calon-Segur as having reached the level that has become customary over the last few vintages. Drink 2035-2050. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Februari 2023) Even visually this stands apart with its inky, glass-staining ruby colour. Rich and powerful but restrained, this is a brilliant Calon Ségur, more old school than the past few vintages in that there is tight cassis, eucalyptus and mint leaf restraint, but still utterly luscious black cherry and damson fruits, concentrated, supple and chiselled tannins with a touch of crème de cassis and incense. Exceptionally impressive. 47% of overall production, 33hl/h yield, 100% new oak, 3.85ph. Vincent Millet director as well as technical director. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) A return to form in my eyes for Calon Ségur after the atypical 2018, rippling with elegance, balance and savoury blue fruits of Cabernet, with rose and peony flowers. Concentrated, chiselled and juicy, this has clear personality and equals the great, classically balanced vintages of Calon like 2016. A yield of 33hl/ha, 3.85pH, 100% new oak. Vincent Millet is now overall director as well as technical director, since the departure of Laurent Dufau in 2020. Drinking Window 2029 – 2048. 98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Maart 2023) 95-97+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Calon-Ségur is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It is aging in 100% new French oak barrels for an anticipated 18 to 20 months. The alcohol is 13.8%. Displaying a deep purple-black color, it straight away springs up with bright scents of freshly picked black raspberries, kirsch and blackberries, needing considerable swirling to reveal a vast array of nuances—rose oil, cardamom, iron ore, graphite, lavender and aniseed. The medium-bodied palate has a solid structure of firm, ripe, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness supporting the tightly wound red and black fruit layers, accented by lots of mineral and floral sparks, finishing with impressive length and depth. Beautiful, beautiful wine! Drink 2026 – 2060. 95-96 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) 99 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2023) The 2020 Château Calon Ségur is pure gold and another masterpiece from this estate. Harvested all in September and pulled from their 48 hectares of vines, the blend is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot that spent 20 months all in new French oak, and it hit 13.2% natural alcohol. My notes started and ended with "wow," and this riveting Saint-Estèphe offers a heavenly bouquet of red and black currants, truffly earth, iron, espresso, and tobacco leaf. With incredible purity of fruit, full-bodied richness, and ultra-fine tannins, it's a deep, pure, layered 2020 that deserves at least 7-8 years of bottle age and will cruise for 40-50 years in cold cellars. Hats off to the team at Calon Ségur. 95-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2021) 18/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Classically structured and Cabernet-driven without the opulence of 2018 or the finesse of 2019. Pure and precise on the nose with cassis notes prevalent. Crunchy fruit on the palate with powdery tannins that build and drive to a dry finish. Verticality as in 2019. Perhaps a little chew but clean and saline on the finish. 13.8%. Drink 2030 – 2050. 96 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «Comme de la soie brossée» Un nez merveilleusement net et pur, vibrant, ultra frais, de fruits bleus, aux notes d’écorce de cassia, de fruits doux, avec une touche de fumée. En bouche, la texture est somptueuse, comme de la soie brossée. Beaucoup de précision, une belle minéralité, des tanins légèrement crayeux. 96-98 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 98 Jeff Leve - thewinecellarinsider.com (December 2023) 97-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 96-97 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) Calon SégurCalon Ségur is de meest Noordelijk gelegen Grand Cru Classé van de Médoc en één van de mooiste terroirs van Bordeaux. De wijngaard omvat 50 hectare uit één stuk, ten noordwesten van het gehucht Saint Estèphe. Er is een bovenlaag van Graves argilo-sableuses, die werd gedeponeerd door de Gironde, en een kleihoudende onderlaag. 45 hectare zijn beplant met 56% Cabernet Sauvignon 35% Merlot, aangevuld met Cabernet Franc en Petit Verdot. De Cabernet Sauvignon gedijt er prima en omvat dan ook doorgaans ¾ van het assemblage. Densiteit van aanplanting is voor hen primordiaal en ze mikken op 8.000 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard is slechts 22 jaar in 2017. |