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 | 2020 Ch. Palmer - Margaux GCC | € 280,00 (€ 338,80) |
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Ik hou ontzettend veel van 2020 Palmer. Die frisse, volmondige allure en fluwelen tanninestructuur, heerlijke fruitige textuur zijn gehuld in plezierige densiteit, weergaloos evenwicht en lengte. Explosieve aroma’s worden aangehouden tot in de minutenlange, haast barokke finale. Daar is niets mis mee, wel integendeel. Wat een plezier dit te kunnen proeven op Châteaux. Het lijkt zelfs een guilty peasure als je weet dat ook dit jaar geen stalen werden verzondern naar de thuisblijvende pers. Maar onze hands-on experience is echt wel een joviaal gebeuren dat we graag met jullie delen. 48% oude Merlot op klei, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon en 4% Petit Verdot à 14,1% vol. 55% van de oogst wordt gebruikt voor de Grand Vin. Grandioos. Wijnmaker Thomas Duroux beschrijft 2020 als het samenkomen van de exuberante 2018 en de precieze 2019, wat de trilogie op Palmer bevestigt. “Dans un verre de Palmer, on doit sentir le lieu”. Jane Anson (97) stemt in en beschrijft Palmer als “precise, slow and seductive, with appellation and estate signature at every turn”. Duroux en zijn rechterhand, Sabrina Pernet, kozen 13 jaar geleden het spoor van de biodynamie. Het volume zakt met 30%. Jammer voor één van de meest gevraagde wijnen van 2020. Er is er niet voor iedereen helaas. IN DE PERS 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2021) The 2020 Palmer, which was matured in 65% new oak, possesses one of the most perfumed bouquets of the vintage with entrancing, seductive scents of black cherries, wild strawberry, iodine and crushed violets, all beautifully delineated (as per usual). The palate is medium-bodied with fine but quite firm tannins, lending this Palmer more backbone than presupposed. Blackberry, graphite and touches of liquorice develop with aeration that build towards an assertive, pencil box-tinged finish that nods towards Pauillac. This is a Palmer destined for long-term ageing, so readers should have a cool damp cellar handy. It is a serious Palmer, very different from the previous two vintages, not a mix of the two, but content in just being itself. 14.1% alcohol. Drink 2030-2070. 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) Aromas of raspberries, cassis and cherries mingle with hints of violets, raw cocoa and hints of truffle in a perfumed bouquet. The 2020 Palmer is a full-bodied, layered and seamless wine that's deep and concentrated, with a vibrant core of beautifully pure and perfumed fruit, lively acids and ultra-refined tannins. This suave but authoritative Palmer is one of the high points of the vintage. Thomas Duroux continues to produce singularly textural, powerful wines at this historic Margaux property, where he has introduced a new focus on parcel-by-parcel viticulture and vinification, as well as pioneering biodynamic methods, over the better part of the last two decades. Today, cover crops are the order of the day, much of the vineyard isn't hedged, and fruit trees are being planted in the rows as part of an agroforestry initiative. The core of Palmer derives from the plateau around the château, where soils consist of a millefeuille of sandy gravel, clay-rich gravel, sandy gravel again and then a meter of pure clay. It's old-vine Merlot, planted on these soils, that lends Palmer its richness and flesh. There are other parcels dotted around the appellation, of course, including a large block of coarser gravel surrounded by trees, not far from Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre. 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) Vivid colours, and the aromatics grab hold straight away. This is intense and concentrated, elegant, balanced and classical, all about the texture which is velvety and seductive with softly-grained tannins. Moves oh so slowly through the palate with dozens of layers to get hold of. The overall feel is precise, slow and seductive, with appellation and estate signature at every turn. Sappy, hawthorn freshness, rosemary, redcurrant, tobacco, cigar box and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. 3.77pH, 78IPT, 55% of overall production, with 13% press wine. Drinking Window 2028 – 2044. 18+/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. The Merlot provides the broad sweep and touch of sweetness on entry, the Cabernet the fine but punchy tannins that drive the wine. Lots of life and persistence, the tannins fine-grained and fresh. Clear potential. 95-97 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 97-99 Yohan Castaing – anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 96-97 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 97-98 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021 |