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 | 2020 Ch. Lafite Rothschild - Pauillac 1er GCC | € 677,00 (€ 819,17) |
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De oogst werd afgerond op 29 september. Het assemblage van 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot en 1% Petit Verdot titreert slechts 12,8%vol, een opmerkelijk laag alcoholgehalte. Maar wat een wijn zo blijkt! “This is quintessential Lafite,” volgens Neal Martin (96-98), “unashamedly classic in style”. Antonio Galloni (95-97) stemt in: “the 2020 is a super-classic Lafite-Rothschild of grace and finesse”. Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (96-98) ziet een “magnificent achievement”. Voor Jeb Dunnuck (97-99) “it should surpass the 2015 and 2017 and be in the same realm as the 2018 and 2019”. James Suckling (99-100) feliciteert “superb presence with tannins that melt into the wine”. IN DE PERS 98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Lafite-Rothschild, which contains the highest proportion of Merlot since the 2016, hit the bull's eye from barrel. Revisiting the wine in the bottle since July, it still bursts from the glass with copious blackberries, touches of blueberry and juniper, pencil lead and a hint of crushed stone. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins, quite linear and "correct" - a quintessential Lafite-Rothschild in many ways. It gently builds in the mouth while keeping a restraint on things, finishing with fine sapidity yet a little more juiciness than you would have found a decade or two earlier. This has the potential to evolve beautifully over several decades. Drink 2028-2065. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Lafite-Rothschild is much more intense and complex compared to the Carruades this year. This First Growth bursts from the glass with beautifully defined blackberry and wild strawberry scents laced with sprigs of wild mint and juniper berries. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins that frame the pixelated black fruit. This is quintessential Lafite in that it is not a powerful or immensely structured wine, but rather a First Growth with unerring balance and harmony, one that is unashamedly classic in style. There is just the right amount of dryness on the finish to urge you back for another sip. So Lafite it has its name tattooed onto its DNA. It will begin to soar after 10 years in the cellar. Drink 2030-2070. 97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Lafite Rothschild is a super-classic wine, just as it was en primeur. Bright acids and expressive saline notes give the 2020 its shape. The 2020 represents a sort of hypothetical blend of cooler and warmer years in terms of its overall feel. Today, it is surprisingly austere, but time in the glass brings our classis Lafite red/purplish fruit, lavender and graphite notes. Readers will have to be patient. Drink 2030-2070. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 is a super-classic Lafite-Rothschild of grace and finesse. A reticent introvert, Lafite impresses with its vertical lift and palpable energy. It is a wine of regal bearing that does not feel the need to say much, and yet everything is very clearly there. Bright acids and strong, saline notes come alive in the glass as the long, persistent finish unfolds with remarkable grace. The 2020 is simply exquisite. It's a fabulous showing from the team led by Technical Director Eric Kohler. Drink 2035-2060. 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2023) Delivers classic sculpted Lafite architecture, where everything builds slowly and carefully, step by step, nothing out of place. This is a delicious wine with pencil lead and crushed mint leaf from mid palate through to the close of play, elegant and understated power, brimming with estate signature. The tannins are elongated, finely balanced against the acidity, with slate scraping texture. Fine and long but with a ton of understated power, uncompromising. Eric Kohler technical director, 100% new oak. 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) This is pretty much as close to entirely Cabernet Sauvignon as Bordeaux gets (92%) and yet it has an incredibly fine, gentle richness to the tannins. They build up pretty quickly though, so that by the end of the palate you start to feel the closing in and tightening, deftly underscoring how well this will age. The kaleidoscope of flavours and aromatics that Lafite does so well is fully on display, nothing trying too hard, a velvet texture to the tannins where the cassis fruit, earth, crushed stone and graphite is held in from beginning to end. Impressive that even in dry vintages like 2020 with the real concerns over global warming, the top Bordeaux estates can still produce wines of this quality. Drink 2028 – 2046. 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) The 2020 Lafite Rothschild opens in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, black truffle, pencil shavings and violets. Full-bodied, fleshy and layered, its broad attack segues into an ample core of fruit framed by supple, melting tannins. Seamless, layered and complete, it's richer and deeper pitched than the 2019, and its notably high pH of 3.94 likely means it will never shut down. It's a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, incorporating just a touch more Merlot from the plateau of Carruades than the 2019. Drink 2027-2055. Today, Château Lafite Rothschild amounts to some 110 hectares planted to some 900,000 vines (including 4.5 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon in Saint-Estèphe). If that figure strikes readers as smaller than it used to be, that's because Lafite has ripped up some less optimally situated plots that never tended to produce wine fit for inclusion in the grand vin. As of 2021, what's more, organic conversion is underway (15 hectares are already farmed biodynamically), and hedges and flowering borders, planted with native species, now begin to break up the monoculture of the vine. Cover crops, too, have been added to the viticultural team's agronomic arsenal and are delivering good results in parcels with more humid or clay-rich soils. In the winery, Lafite is meticulously traditional—the grapes are sorted twice, once optically, and see a classical maceration in wooden and cement tanks with pump-overs and some use of the gentle "air pulse" system that disrupts the cap and oxygenates the ferment without the need for a full pump-over. Malolactic fermentation, as ever, is in tank, and the wine matures in barrels that are mostly produced in-house, with a light toast and favoring the forests of Allier and Nevers. Each vintage is racked three times, traditionally, with one egg white fining (which requires up to 8,000 eggs). As is the case almost everywhere in the Médoc, the tendency is for less and less Merlot in the assemblage. 98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Maart 2023) 96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) Displaying a deep purple-black color, the 2020 Lafite Rothschild takes a little swirling and coaxing to unlock scents of freshly crushed blackcurrants, boysenberries and spiced plums, followed by emerging nuances of red roses, raspberry preserves, underbrush and unsmoked cigars, with a waft of cedar chest. The medium-bodied palate is an exercise in elegance and finesse, featuring tightly wound layers of red and black berries and loads of mineral sparks, framed by finely grained tannins and well-poised tension, finishing with fantastic length and the most stunning perfume. Magnificent achievement. This 2020 is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, coming in at 12.8% alcohol and a pH of 3.9. Drink 2028-2063. Saskia de Rothschild, chairwoman of Domaines Barons de Rothschild, began by saying, “We had to do a lot of reorganization with the pandemic. It was a very precocious vintage. In mid-March, we had to plan ahead and control the vegetative cycle that had already started. The warm spring and the bouts of rain meant there was a lot of organizing to control the mildew. We had to train the cellar teams to learn which shoot to choose in shoot thinning.” The mildew situation early in the 2020 growing season coupled with the unprecedented COVID lockdown restrictions posed a challenge. Although Lafite is not certified organic, they have been practicing organic methods and are planning to enter into the official organic conversion period (a period of three years) from this year. “We want to consider each vineyard an ecosystem,” Saskia said. “We want to be able to do more. Even with cover crops, for example, or massal selection—it is a collection of practices that give the best expression of terroir.” Like everywhere in Bordeaux in 2020, Pauillac entered a period of extreme drought from mid-June to mid-August. “In mid-August, we finally had a lot of rain in Pauillac,” Technical Director Eric Kohler explained. “One hundred millimeters (about four inches) came down. It was a godsend. We had lower alcohol, but we had very intense flavors. The wine is a paradox: it is powerful, but not heavy. We would rather have a lack of ripeness than over-maturation. I think this is the first time we have such contrasts—wines so different from the climate. The rains meant we kept the balance and freshness.” 100 James Suckling – jamessuckling (Mei 2023) Amazing aromas here with tobacco, crushed stone, cigar box, currants, tar, and lead pencil, as well as spices, iron, and dried ginger. Medium- to full-bodied, with a density and tightness. Very compact and complex. Racy. Delicacy with strength. Orange peel undertones. A wine to contemplate. You must understand it to understand the great Lafites of the past and those of the future. Only 12.8% alcohol. 92% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot and 1% petit verdot. Best after 2030, but drink it if you have the chance taste it. 99-100 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) Rather ethereal and so refined with finesse, focus and brightness that provides incredible energy and pedigree. It’s full-bodied with ultra fine tannins that go on and on. Superb presence with tannins that melt into the wine. This is 12.8%. I love the wine. Lots of dark fruit and fresh tobacco. Lead pencil, too. 92% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot and 1% petit verdot. 100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2023) Looking at the Grand Vin, the 2020 Château Lafite-Rothschild is a sensational effort checking in as 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot that hit 12.8% natural alcohol and a pH of 3.94. As Lafite as Lafite gets, this ultra-classic reveals a dense ruby/plum hue as well as a tight, yet layered bouquet of ripe blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, freshly sharpened pencils, graphite, and subtle spice. Flawlessly balanced, deep, concentrated, and layered, it has an incredible mid-palate, building, perfect tannins, and a finish that leaves you salivating. Refined, elegant, and perfection are the buzz words here. Unfortunately, it's not for the instant gratification crowd, and I wouldn't be surprised to see this require 15 years to hit the early stages of its prime drinking window. It will probably hit its 100th birthday in fine form. 97-99 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Château Lafite-Rothschild checks in as 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot brought up in roughly 90% or more of new French oak. It's a deep, inky-hued Lafite boasting incredible notes of crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, graphite, crushed stone, and gravelly earth-like minerality. Full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with terrific purity of fruit, it has ripe tannins, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and a great, great finish. It should surpass the 2015 and 2017 and be in the same realm as the 2018 and 2019. Despite its richness and depth, it hit just 12.8% alcohol, with an IPT of 72 and a pH of 3.5. It’s going to be just about immortal. 98 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «L'équilibre exquis entre acidité et plénitude» Au nez, une profondeur immense, tel un puits sans fond, qui donne des parfums qui dansent dans l'air pour arriver jusqu’au ciel. Des arômes, majestueux et grisants, de fruits noirs, d’ardoise, de graphite et de charbon. Enveloppant en bouche, comme si l’on se retrouvait enrobé de soie brossée. L’intensité et la densité de la matière, qui se laissent parfois percevoir, restent pour l’instant étroitement enroulées ; les fruits frais attendent impatiemment leur moment de plein épanouissement. L’équilibre exquis entre acidité et plénitude augure une longue vie. Un vin très raffiné. 19/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. A very masculine Lafite with a powerful tannic frame (bigger than 2019 and 2018). Deep, intense and stately on the nose with mineral-graphite notes to the fore. Palate rich but with a massive charge of fine-grained tannin and lingering freshness. Enormous length on the finish. Incredible potential. Drink 2032-2060. 97-99 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Mei 2021) The compelling nose, with its showy notes of lead pencil, tobacco leaf, cedar, cigar box, currants, spice and wet forest leaf comes through easily. The palate is pure silk in texture. Seamlessly moving from the beginning, middle and end, the wine is fresh, bright, long and intense. The purity in the fruit, paired with its energy and lift linger for more than 50 seconds. Refined, elegant, complex and compelling, if you have the patience to wait for 15-20 years before opining a bottle, this is going to be one of the great vintages for Lafite Rothschild. The wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot 12.8% ABV. The harvest took place September 14 - October 4. With yields of 37 hectoliters per hectare, the Grand Vin represents 45% of the harvest. 96-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 97-98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 95-96 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) 97-99 Michael Schuster – theworldoffinewine.com (Mei 2021) (92% CS, 7% M, 1% PV; 45% harvest; 12.8% ABV). Dense, mineral, gently oaky to smell, as always so subtle, fine, demanding of attention; fresh, concentrated, superfine in tannin texture, a gloriously harmonious balance; sweet, succulent, aromatically complex and refined, gently fleshy yet so fresh tasting, very long across the palate, softly mouthcoating, so full of delicate perfume, and intense yet so subtle cassis fruit, and with a terrific farewell of fruit and mineral aromas. A seductively complete and classic beauty, a discreet power, an effortlessly serene and polished performance, a top Lafite. Remarkable at under 13% ABV! 2036–60+. Lafite RothschildLafite Rothschild is één van de machtigste “super-brands”, met “global demand” tot gevolg. Maar dit “best performing investment vehicle over the past decade” van 2011 is ook een grote wijn: al eeuwen lang aanzien als een koning onder koningen, brengt Lafite indrukwekkende bewaarwijnen van de allergrootste distinctie. 1953, 1959, 1986, 1996, 2003, 2009 en 2010 zijn referenties. Perfecte parkerscores gingen naar 1986, 1996 en 2003. Het domein bevat 103 hectare wijngaarden op het noordelijke punt van Pauillac, met zelfs enkele wijnstokken in Saint Estèphe. Het terroir van Graves is beplant met 78% Cabernet Cauvignon, 17% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De tweede wijn heet Carruades de Lafite. Het Château staat tussen fraaie ceders op een terras, omheind door een balustrade in Louis XIV-stijl, en is sinds het Second Empire (1868) in handen van de Franse tak van de familie Rothschild. Sinds 1975 en zeker 1982 brachten Eric de Rothschild en wijnmaker Charles Chevalier de wijnen opnieuw op een weergaloos niveau. Saskia de Rothschild stuurt voortaan Lafite aan met een vernieuwd élan. Eerder was ze journalist voor New York Times, wereldreiziger en pende ze zelfs een eerste roman neer. Nu richt ze haar pijlen op Lafite Rotschild. Met zin voor het juiste woord volgt ze de evenementen nauwgezet op, met « le pouvoir des mots pour les qualifier ». Deze jonge dame heeft de toewijding van de jonge mama die ze ondertussen geworden is. Samen met Eric Kohler, wijnmaker sinds 2015, en Jean-Guillaume Prats, die eerder Cos d'Estournel groot maakte, verwachten wij van hen vele Grands Vins op Lafite! | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||