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 | 2020 Ch. Giscours - Margaux GCC | € 47,60 (€ 57,60) |
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Betrouwbare Giscours! Het assemblage van 56% Cabernet Sauvignon en 44% Merlot geniet 17 maand élevage op 50% nieuwe eik. Helaas is er 25% minder wijn dit jaar. Stralend robijnrood vinden we terug in de neus van haagvruchten. Op de tong blijft hij subtiel en complex in florale, kruidige tonaliteiten. Fraîcheur en zachtheid laat rood fruit doorschemeren doorheen knapperige, structurerende tannine. Ceder, kamperfoelie en sous-bois wijzen naar Cabernet Sauvignon. Deze lichtvoetige Giscours danst over het palet met entrain in fijne textuur. Giscours straalt opnieuw! Een verklaring? Thomas Duclos, de consulent van het moment, die onder meer Canon hertekende, adviseert voortaan Alexander van Beek. Ze plukken voortaan in tries zoals in Sauternes, perceel per perceel, naargelang de leeftijd van de wijnstokken... IN DE PERS 93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Giscours was picked from September 21 to October 2. The huge difference in quality between the Grand Vin and Deuxième Vin is apparent on the nose of crystal-clear black fruit intermixed with raspberry, crushed stone and light crushed violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, taut and crisp, and quite tensile, leading to a classically styled, sapid finish. This is a classy Giscours with plenty of breeding. Drink 2024-2050. 93-95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Giscours is surprisingly juicy and forward, with lovely mid-palate richness from the Merlot that comprises 44% of the blend. Inky dark fruit, new leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all meld together effortlessly. In 2020 Giscours is a real charmer. I imagine it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Harvest started on September 8 for the Merlot and finished with the last of the Cabernets on October 3, which is a good week ahead of schedule. Yields are down about 25% from the 2019, mostly because of heat and dry weather during the summer. New oak is 50%. Drink 2030-2050. 95 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) This is an excellent Giscours, extremely precise, well drawn and seductive. There is both concentration and spice, and a vivid sappy feel to the raspberry and bilberry fruits, all drawn out through the palate as the slate texture kicks in. Plenty of things to keep track on here, not least that this is now the only estate in Margaux owned by the Albada family, as they have sold du Tertre. The focus is now entirely on Giscours, and I would expect to see a concerted effort to raise the visibility of the property. Changes include Thomas Duclos as consultant since 2019, and vineyard choices such as intra-plot harvesting, meaning going in waves through the plots picking individual vines when they are at full ripeness. Plus, Jerome Poisson is the new technical director (a French Canadian, who worked in Napa, Italy, Chile, Cognac and Alsace), replacing Lorenzo Pasquini. 50% new oak for ageing. A yield of 35hl/ha. Drinking Window: 2028 – 2044. 95+ William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) This estate is now enjoying its finest run since its glory days in the 1970s, and the 2020 Giscours is excellent. Unwinding in the glass with deep aromas of blackberries, cassis, pencil shavings, rose petals and sweet, loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a layered and seamless mid-palate, excellent concentration and powdery structuring tannins. Drink 2027-2055. Giscours produced some brilliant wines in the past, with a string of notable successes in the 1970s and early 1980s, but then it fell victim to neglect. The predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in those old vintages, sometimes representing more than 80% of the blend, gradually ceded ground to more productive and facile Merlot; and the estate's reputation declined. When the Albada family acquired Giscours in 1995, all that began to change. Fully 140,000 missing vines were replaced, cultivating the soils was resumed, and the winery was renovated. A young Alexander van Beek arrived for harvest in 1995 and ended up staying to oversee the work. And the results today are very exciting indeed. Giscours itself occupies three large gravel domes: one opposite the château itself, the other on the other side of the road and a third inland that hits fully 21 meters above sea level. There's a large park with a river at the heart of the estate, and the team are creating wildlife corridors and hedges to bring life back into the vineyards. Seeded cover crops now protect the soils, and canopies are a touch lower to limit excess sugar accumulation. At harvest itself, vines of different age have been marked out to be harvested separately, an immense task, considering that Giscours has 100 hectares under vine in the Margaux appellation alone. 92-94+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, the 2020 Giscours reveals a deep garnet-purple color and compelling notes of crushed redcurrants, plum preserves and Morello cherries, leading to hints of lavender, wild sage, damp soil and black truffles with a touch of licorice. The medium-bodied palate bursts with vibrant red and black fruits and lots of savory accents, supported by soft, very well managed tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Drink: 2024 – 2044. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) Aromas of crushed berries, dried flowers and spices with undertones of ink and iron. Full-bodied with wonderful, fine tannins that are totally embedded in the structure. Endless length and such refinement. Rather ethereal. Another winner from Giscours. 93-95 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2021) 94-96 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 97-99 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 96-97 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 95 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) GiscoursGiscours is een domein van 300 hectare in de appellatie Margaux, waarvan er 83 beplant zijn met wijngaarden. In 1855 werd Giscours geklasseerd als Troisième Grand Cru Classé, acht jaar nadat het Château werd gebouwd door le Comte de Pescatore. In het park van Château Giscours zien we een "oversized" bril, nabij de vijver en gericht op het Château. Het is een knipoog naar de Nederlander Eric Albada Jergersma die in 1995 de exploitatie overnam. Dennis, Derek en Valérie volgen hun overleden vader op. Ze verkochten het Château du Tertre die hun vader gekocht had in 1997. De plannen voor Giscours omvatten binnenkort verbouwingswerken en de opening van een "locavore" restaurant, gericht op locale producten. Alexander van Beek is de manager. Giscours biedt klassevolle en intense wijnen met bewaarpotentieel. Van BeekAlexander van Beek is verantwoordelijk voor Giscours in Margaux in naam van een Nederlandse familie. Hij is tevens de echtgenoot van Véronique Sanders die de dagelijkse leiding heeft over Haut Bailly. |