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 | 2020 Ch. Léoville Poyferré - Saint Julien GCC | € 95,00 (€ 114,95) |
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IN DE PERS 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Léoville Poyferré builds on the success of recent vintages, offering intense yet exquisitely defined black cherries, wild strawberry, cassis and crushed stone aromas. It is high-toned as usual but not quite as hedonistic as the recently tasted 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that belie the backbone of this Saint-Julien. Slightly lactic in texture toward the spicy finish; the oak will be assimilated by the time of bottling, leaving a very suave and sophisticated wine that will give 30–40 years of drinking pleasure. Easily one of the classiest offerings from this Saint-Julien in recent years. Drink 2025-2055. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Léoville-Poyferré is a powerful, structured wine. In recent vintages, Léoville-Poyferré has been more opulent, but the 2020 shows off a towering, vertical build framed by a soaring spine of tannin. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, cedar and spicebox emerge with a bit of coaxing. Ultimately, though, Léoville-Poyferré is less showy than most Saint-Juliens at this stage. I don't expect that will be much of an issue in time. In a word: magnificent. Tasted three times. Drink 2032-2050. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) Rich and concentrated with violet reflections and a wall of tannins. Well structured, it sets its feet deep in the ground and will need time to soften and develop. Good quality with depth. The tannins are far more present than the alcohol, setting it apart from the 2018. A yield of 35hl/ha. Harvest september 14 to 30. Planted blend (not 2020) 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Drinking Window 2028 - 2042 94+ William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) A rich, powerful wine, the 2020 Léoville Poyferré offers up aromas of sweet berries, blueberry liqueur, exotic spices, incense and creamy new oak. Full-bodied, broad and layered, it's deep and concentrated, its ample core of fruit only partially concealing a hefty payload of sweet, powdery, generously extracted tannin. Poyferré is generally the most flamboyant and demonstrative of the three Léovilles, but in 2020, it's chunkier, broader shouldered and more brooding than usual. Drink 2030-2050. With some 80 hectares under vine, Léoville Poyferré's parcels are interfingered with those belonging to the Delon and Barton families by the river and on the plateau of Saint-Julien. The soils are cultivated less frequently and less deeply these days, and conversion to organic methods is gradually being rolled out, parcel by parcel, some being easier to farm this way than others. Winemaking features a five- to eight-day cold soak, followed by comparatively long macerations, and maturation is in 80% new oak, with lots destined for new barrels completing their malolactic fermentation in barrel. Combined with an elevated percentage of Merlot in the vineyards (though the tendency here, as elsewhere, is to replant with more Cabernet Sauvignon), this has tended to deliver the richest, fleshiest, most flamboyant of the three Léoville estates, but while it's generally the most open out of the gates of the three, that hasn't come at the expense of longevity. 95-97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) Deep purple-black colored, the 2020 Léoville Poyferré comes bounding out of the glass like an energetic young pup, delivering exuberant scents of crushed black cherries, juicy blackberries and warm cassis, with hints of ground cloves, dark chocolate, lilacs and tilled soil. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully plush, delivering bags of ripe black fruits with a seamless backbone of acidity, finishing long and spicy. Drink: 2027 – 2051. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) Impressive purity of fruit on the nose with crushed raspberries, blackcurrants and blackberries. Some lead pencil, too. It’s full-bodied with very polished, intense tannins that go on for minutes. The quality and precision of the tannins are impressive, giving the wine form, energy and equilibrium. 96-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2021) 17,5+/20 Jancis Robinson – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) Full bottle 1,345 g. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Plot-by-plot fermentation and ageing for 18 to 20 months (still in train, as the notes explain). Here they admit they don't do the final assemblage until June. Dark crimson. Relatively voluptuous nose. Flattering initially but then with quite a charge of inky tannins underneath. Needs time. Notably dry on the finish but with good density. Rather more obviously dry and less flashy than some vintages. Very much made for the long term with a juicy, spicy undertow. Extremely youthful. Unusually, it seems drier than Léoville Barton. 13.7% Drink 2030 – 2053 97 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «Une bouche divine, suave et somptueux» Un nez altier qui en dit long sur la suite, très parfumé, où se mêlent des arômes de fruits opulents - de cerise, d'orange – liftés par des notes rafraîchissantes de giroflées et de feuilles. Puis une bouche divine, suave et somptueux, aux notes de café, d'épices et de tabac, avec une trame saline, alléchante, et une finale très longue de chocolat noir. 95-97 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 92-94 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 96-97 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 97 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) Léoville PoyferréLéoville Poyferré is sinds 1920 eigendom van de familie Cuvelier. Didier Cuvelier kwam aan het hoofd van het domein in 1978 en wordt sinds 1994 bijgestaan door de befaamde oenoloog uit Pomerol, Michel Rolland. Dit heeft zo zijn gevolgen: de wijnen lijken "gladder", volmondiger en vroeger genietbaar dan die van las Cases of Barton. De 80 hectare (60,386 hectare voor de Grand Vin) zijn aangeplant met 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot en 4% Cabernet Franc tegen een densiteit van 8.700 wijnstokken per hectare. De bodem bestaat uit Graves garonnaises en sables eoliens. De gemiddelde leeftijd is 37 jaar. Zou Léoville Poyferré meer Merlot prefereren dan andere Saint Juliens? Wat er ook van zij, Poyferré charmeert met “aisance”. What is there not to like? Monsieur Poyferré was één van de drie die er de hand wist te leggen op een deel van het grote Château de Léoville bij een openbare verkoop in de nasleep van de Franse Revolutie. De Cuveliers investeerden: strengere selectie, invoering van een tweede wijn en intenser gebruik van nieuwe eik brachten resultaat. De familie blijft in zijn goede naam investeren, ook met de op til zijnde generatiewissel van Didier Cuvelier naar Sara Lecompte Cuvelier. Léoville Poyferré bereikt het hoogste echelon met 1990, 2000, 2009, 2010, 2016 en 2018 als voorlopige hoogtepunten. Het zijn schitterende, diepe en rijkelijke wijnen. Léoville Poyferré is altijd een slimme primeurreservatie. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||