 | 2021 Ch. Cheval Blanc - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 465,00 (€ 562,65) |
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2021 Cheval Blanc « offre de la sappidité, du velours, du sourire ». 69% van de oogst werd Cheval Blanc, 13% Petit Cheval en 18% wordt verkocht op vat. Het is 52% Cabernet Franc die zijn persoonlijkheid affirmeert. De Grand Vin komt rijkelijk en fijn over; hij is precies en strak-fris met een knapperig karakter. Het prachtig parfum betovert terwijl we de pauze-knop indrukken en de wijn laten openbloeien. Daarop volgt een crescendo in de smaakervaring zoals het betaamt op dit niveau. Dit is niet voor niets Cheval Blanc… intensiteit en raffinement in één. De Cabernets vervolmaken de milieu de bouche. De finale is consistent met wat voorafgaat. Dit is niet palladiaans maar u begrijpt wat we bedoelen: klassieke grandeur! Het rustig seizoeneinde en de kwaliteit van de Cabernet Franc maakt van Cheval Blanc 2021 één van de grootste wijnen van het jaar, zoniet de grootste. Bravissimo! In 2021 wordt een historisch, recent herplant perceel met Cabernet Franc opgenomen in de assemblage. Dit levert dan 52% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot en 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wie fraîcheur verlangde na de recente warme wijnjaren zal over de wolken zijn. Het koeler aromatisch profiel danken we aan de uitgestelde cyclus (de oogst volgde 60 dagen na mi-véraison in plaats van de gebruikelijke 40) en stress hydrique bleef beperkt tot de jonge wijnstokken. Levendig purper tooit het glas. De “signature” is er: bloedsinaas, grafiet en crémeuze rijpe kersjes zetten Cheval Blanc op de kaart mét minéralité. Spanning, moeiteloze intensiteit en een verregaande structuur vervolmaken het geheel. Cabernet Franc leidt de dans op een palet van haagvruchten, potlood, sous-bois en cacao. Deze 2021 is een essentiële Cheval Blanc die met brio het wijnjaar naar zijn hand zet. Excellent. Cheval Blanc is één van de grootste namen in Bordeaux en de meest gerespecteerde Saint Emilion. De wijngaard van 39 ha grenst aan Pomerol maar Cabernet Franc verleent zijn wijnen een eigen profiel (naast Merlot en Cabernet Sauvignon). In deze prachtige omgeving leidt Pierre-Olivier Clouet het team. IN DE PERS 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Cheval Blanc has turned out beautifully in bottle, and director Pierre-Olivier Clouet even considers it to be superior to the 2020, a preference that I share. Wafting from the glass with aromas of mulberries and cherries mingled with incense, iris and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a velvety attack that segues into a rich, concentrated mid-palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins and concluding with a long, penetrating, rose-inflected finish. Drink 2027-2055. One of Bordeaux's most complex terroirs, Cheval Blanc sits on the site of an ancient river delta, with (to generalize) clay-rich soils in the lower-lying parts where rivulets once flowed and gravel and sand elsewhere. This complexity is reflected, of course, in the resulting wine but also in how it is farmed and made, with thoughtful use of cover crops according to soil type and parcel-by-parcel vinification. A concerted effort is being made, moreover, to bring life back to the vineyard, with hedges of native species to act as wildlife corridors and fruit trees planted among the vines. The same attention to detail that's applied in the vineyards, for example with regard to developing and testing an in-house massal selection, is applied in the cellar, where cooperage trials are notable for their exigence. All of that shows in the glass. Cabernet dominates in the 2021 blend, and the result is a serious Cheval Blanc built for the long haul. 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Cheval Blanc, the first vintage since 2011 with over half Cabernet Franc, has a very deep color in the glass. The nose is well-defined with tightly coiled red fruit and iodine scents, graphite and light incense aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, an unerring symmetry and a silky smooth finish. This is where the pedigree of the vineyards stands out: very harmonious and very deep, with gentle grip. Yet there is impressive power in this wine, and I suspect as such it will be one of the longest to mature in bottle. Drink 2030-2065. 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, quite structured and very linear and strict. A bit like Ausone, this is an uncompromising Cheval Blanc, very saline and marine-influenced. While not as flattering as the 2020, it will appeal more to those who prefer a cerebral Cheval Blanc. One of the stars of the Right Bank in this challenging growing season. Drink 2030-2065. 98 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) Rich and explosive in feel, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is outrageously beautiful. For the first time since 2011, the Grand Vin is more than 50% Cabernet Franc. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are all amplified in this potent, luxurious Cheval Blanc. Polished, seamless tannins wrap it all together. This is one of my favorites of the vintage. Drink 2031-2061. 96-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components, none of which hints at the magnificence of the Grand Vin. Stunning. Drink 2031-2061. 95-97 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) A terrific achievement, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is a blend of 52% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of raspberries and cherries mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, vine smoke, rose petals and violets, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with an elegantly muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannin and lively animating acids. Long and penetrating, this is a serious, rather structured young Cheval Blanc that will require and reward patience. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) This is so finely textured with very precise, tight tannins. Medium to full body. Lots of layers here with black and blue fruit, stones, tar, dark cocoa and spices. Dried herbs. Long and persistent. Stays focused all the way. So precise. 52% cabernet franc, 43% merlot and 5% cabernet sauvignon. 96 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) The 30th anniversary with Pierre Lurton as director, and the last official year as Premier Grand Cru Classé A following their withdrawal from the St Emilion ranking. Worth marking out for that fact alone, along with Ausone and Angélus, as whatever happens next there might be kudos in future years for having the last vintage where these three estates were at the top of the classification. This is easily one of the wines of the vintage, powerful, classical and intellectual, with stretched out, taut tannins and a slow build of raspberry, redcurrant and blueberry fruits, run through with rosebud and peony aromatics. It's not voluptuous like the 2015 or 2018 Cheval, but has gorgeous balance and depth, and will deliver for decades, putting it in a select band of 2021 estates. Biggest percentage of Cabernet Franc since 2011, and the first time to use more Cabernet Franc than Merlot in the blend. Ageing is expected to be 19 months, to ensure a little extra polish on the tannins. No chaptilisation. Lurton’s first vintage of 1991, by the way, was also impacted by frost, but far more severely, to the point where they made no 1st wine for the only time in their modern history. 95-97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) A blend of 52% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is deep purple-black in color. It opens with intense notes of chocolate-covered cherries, blackberry preserves, and cassis, plus suggestions of violets, star anise, chocolate box, and an exotic waft of sandalwood. Medium-bodied, the palate has a great core of black plums and cassis layers, supported by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, leading to a long and spicy finish on this beguilingly beautiful wine. Drink 2029-2059. 17+/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 52% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Deep crimson hue. Fragrant and floral with a hint of mint, the same returning on the palate. Focused and precise, the fruit juicy and the plentiful tannins finely grained. Low-key but elegant and refined. Should fill out more in bottle. 13%. Drink 2030 – 2046. 98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2022) 96-98 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Mei 2022) 97-98 La Revue des Vins de France (Mei 2022) Cheval BlancCheval Blanc is één van de meest gerespecteerde wijnen in Bordeaux. De wijngaard zet de toon in Saint Emilion met een imposante oppervlakte van 37 hectare. Toch vertoont hij er een apart karakter, enerzijds omwille van zijn ligging (een grachtje scheidt hem van Pomerol) en anderzijds, omwille van de aangeplante cépages. Met 58% Cabernet Franc - de rest is Merlot - ontplooit Cheval Blanc zijn ware aard pas over een langere termijn. Imponeren doet hij met gedrevenheid en elegantie, zonder overdaad of overdondering. De beste flessen worden gevonden in de wijnjaren 1921, 1947, 1990, 2000, 2009 en 2010. De 1947 en 2010 kregen een perfecte Parkerscore. Kortom, Cheval Blanc staat voor majesteit. Het is één van “the Big Eight”, de acht meest vermaarde historische Châteaux van Bordeaux. Die benaming groepeert de Premiers van de Médoc (Latour, Lafite, Mouton, Margaux alsook Haut Brion in Pessac), Ausone eveneens in Saint Emilion, Petrus in Pomerol en Yquem in Sauternes. Samen met Ausone, Pavie en Angélus draagt Cheval Blanc de titel van Premier Grand Cru Classé “A”. Eigenaars Bernard Arnault en Baron Frère vertrouwen de leiding toe aan Pierre Lurton. Hij wordt bijgestaan door een dreamteam van technici met onder meer Pierre-Olivier Clouet en Professor Kees Van Leeuwen. Hun toewijding is groot. Cheval Blanc domineert het landschap zeker na de recente bouwwerken geleid door architect Christian de Portzamparc. Au XVIII° siècle, l’actuel terroir de Cheval Blanc comportait une importante surface de vignes, comme l’atteste une carte de Belleyme, datée en 1764. Près d’un siècle plus tard, la propriété est acquise par la famille Fourcaud-Laussac qui la conservera jusqu’en 1998, et la cèdera alors à Monsieur Bernard Arnault et au Baron Albert Frère. La propriété forme un ensemble homogène d’un seul tenant, à la limite de l’appellation Pomerol.
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