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 | 2021 Ch. Les Carmes Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan | € 105,00 (€ 127,05) |
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IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Les Carmes Haut Brion was one of the best wines of the vintage when I tasted from barrel. This contains 49% whole-bunch (a slightly higher figure than Guillaume Pouthier gave me during en primeur). The barrel-aging was what Pouthier called a "white toasting", very light, so that you don't smell the oak (70% new). It has a complex bouquet, quite open with mainly red fruit, cedar and hints of pressed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, unobstrusive tannins that inbue this Pessac with a sense of symmetry. It possesses thrilling salinity and is a little granular in texture on the finish, completing perhaps the most impressive wine of this challenging season. Drink 2027-2055. 93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion includes 45% whole bunch, the same as the previous vintage with 70% new oak, 20% in the new 1800-litre foudres and some in amphora. Interestingly, the whole bunch contribution is less evident here compared to the Le C des Carmes, more assimilated with touches of flint and graphite infusing the mineral-rich black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip on the entry, plenty of crunchy black fruit infused with graphite, cracked black pepper and cedar underlying marine influences. With a surfeit of freshness on the saline finish, tensile with an almost penetrating minerally aftertaste, this will deserve 5-7 years in bottle. 13,5% alcohol. Drink 2027-2055. Few estates with the status of this property are furrowing their own individual path as much as Les Carmes Haut-Brion, under the direction of Guillaume Pouthier. I wonder whether we will one day look back on its contemporary wines as pioneers for whole bunch usage in Bordeaux? Surely, others must be looking at plaudits praising its wines, including myself, wondering whether they should throw a few stems in the mix? “We have more volume in 2021 than 2020 because there was a lot of water in the soil,” Pouthier told me in typically voluble form. “It was not easy to absorb the potassium, which is why you sprayed to improve assimilation. Another problem was the Cicadellidae [leafhoppers] that dried the leaves and reduced photosynthesis. I found that clay and limestone terroirs kept water in the soil, and this helped with tannic ripeness. The maturity of the Merlot is very different than the Cabernet, better, because of the later ripening cycle. There was a four-week véraison for Merlot compared to two-and-a-half weeks for Cabernet, so there was heterogeneous ripeness that became clear during harvest. Therefore, we picked three times for both cuvées. The yield was 42hL/ha. For Les “C” des Carmes, the first picking at the end of September had [potential alcohol levels] of 12.6% and after two weeks, it was 13.8%. The malic acid is quite high because of a lack of sun, around 50% more, so the pH will go up during malolactic. We did not chaptalise. We had less body, but when you add whole bunches you add to the mid-palate.” 98 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is very possibly the wine of the vintage. Vertical and explosive, the 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and dynamic energy to burn. The 2021 is a heady, racy wine that capitvates all the senses. Tobacco, mocha, cedar, leather, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and plum saturate the palate in a wine that dazzles from start to finish. The 2021 was bottled in late September 2023, much later than most wines, yet it is so expressive today. It was magnificent from barrel, and it is every bit as breathtaking today. Quite simply, Les Carmes is on another level. Bravo! Drink 2031-2061. 96-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) Technical Director Olivier Pouthier crafted one of the wines of the vintage at Les Carmes Haut-Brion. The 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and stunning persistence. Bright red-fleshed fruit, blood orange, mint, dried flowers and exotic spice caress the senses as the 2021 shows off its sheer allure. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young Carmes with this level of precision. The blend is 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, aged in 70% new oak, 20% new foudres and 10% in amphora. As always, Les Carmes sees some whole cluster, 45% in 2021, an unusual technique in Bordeaux, but one that works so well here. The 2021 is a magical wine. That’s all there is to it. Drink 2031-2061. 95 Yohan Castaing - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully in bottle, though it is more introverted and brooding than it appeared during en primeur tastings, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries mingled with spices, loamy soil, licorice, rose petals, gentian and black pepper. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with a concentrated core of fruit framed by ripe but abundant structuring tannins and bright acids, it concludes with a long, palate-staining finish. As readers may remember, it's a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Drink 2027-2055. 94-97 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) A brilliant and intensely individual wine, the 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion shows immense potential. Wafting from the glass with aromas of rich berries and plums mingled with notions of raw cocoa, loamy soil, rose petals, burnt sage and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, vibrant and seamless, with a deep, dynamic core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Transcending the limitations of the vintage, it wouldn't surprise me were this wine ultimately to surpass the 2019 and 2020 in quality. It's a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot that's maturing in 70% new oak and the rest in 15-hectoliter foudres. Tasted twice. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) This is a special wine for the vintage with a wonderful and impressive tannin texture that melts into the wine, giving softness and finesse. Medium-bodied, showing a solid core of fruit with beautiful, focused cassis, blackberry and crushed-stone character. The unique terror of this estate, which is surrounded by houses in a suburb of Bordeaux, has produced a gorgeous wine in this difficult vintage. 45% whole bunches. 40% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot. 94 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) Inky colour, enticing texture and aromatics, accomplished construction with no drop of density through the mid palate. They use reductive techniqes during ageing so you always have to give Carmes time in the glass to open up (even after En Primeur, when in bottle), and you are richly rewarded by a bit of patience, with damson, black cherry, rich chocolate, liqourice, smoked earth, mandarin peel, rose bud and mouthwartering acidities. This has tension and subdued power, and is a successful interpretation of the vintage. 42hl/h yields, same as 2020, no frost, no mildew, no coulure. Harvest as in Sauternes; with three passes through the vineyard at harvest. No chaptilisation. Harvest September 23 to October 1. 3.6ph, 45% whole grape, only 5% less than last year. 70% new oak, 20% large sized still new but 1800 litres, and 10% amphoras. A potential upscore in bottle. 93-95+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot, aging in 70% new barriques, 20% new 18 hl foudres, and 10% amphoras. Deep garnet-purple colored, it shoots out of the glass with vivacious notes of kirsch, black cherry preserves, cassis, and blueberries, plus hints of candied violets, star anise, cinnamon toast, and Ceylon tea. Medium-bodied, the palate shimmers with intense red and black fruit sparks, framed by grainy, multi-layered tannins and fantastic tension, finishing long and mineral-laced. While the weight is ethereal, the intensity is mind-blowing and an amazing achievement in this vintage. The Cabernet Franc contribution makes this a triumph, as does the inspired use of stems. Batches with ripe stems are selected for whole-bunch fermentation and the rest are destemmed. 45% was selected for whole-bunch fermentation this year, 10% less than in 2020. if you can put aside your stylistic preconceptions of what Bordeaux is and embrace this bright, energetic style with amazing textural complexity (from oak, stem, and grape skin tannins), you will love this evocative, age-worthy beauty. pH 3.6. Drink 2026-2050. 96-99 lefigaro.fr (December 2023) 17+/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 45% whole bunch. Cask sample. Deep purple-crimson hue. Lively and fresh with spicy, smoky notes on the nose. There’s a lushness to the ample fruit but lift and freshness as well, the plentiful tannins upright and integrated. Again, lots of energy and drive with just that bit more concentration than Le C. Clean, dry finish. Vibrant and harmonious. 13.5%. Drink 2028 – 2045. Les Carmes Haut BrionSinds 2012 maakt Les Carmes Haut Brion schitterende wijnen, met 2016 en 2018 als voorlopige benchmarks. Een anecdote: het is de enige Grand Cru Classé met een postcode in Bordeaux stad: 33000. Hij werd in december 2010 gekocht door de immobiliënmakelaar Patrice Pichet voor la Patrimoniale Foncière Pichet. Deze initiële aankoop van 7,6 hectare was de duurste transactie ooit in de geschiedenis van Bordeaux. Ondertussen is 25,5 hectare in bezit en sinds 2015 gebruiken ze nieuwe installaties gebouwd door designer Philippe Starck en architect Luc Arsène-Henry. De encépagement is atypisch voor Pessac Léognan: 41% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc en de rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Régisseur Guillaume Pouthier kwam over van bij Chapoutier en Stéphane Derenoncourt en Simon Blanchard zijn consulenten. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||