 | 2021 Ch. Troplong Mondot - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 84,00 (€ 101,64) |
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IN DE PERS 93 Neal Martin - vinous.com (November 2023) The 2021 Troplong Mondot was bottled in February 2022, earlier than many estates. I tasted two samples, one decanted earlier and one freshly poured. The latter showed more fruité: black cherries, violet, touches of pencil shavings and dried roses, building in intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, fresh, vibrant and spicy, with an insistent grip and dashes of black pepper and chalk toward the finish. Quite a vertical Troplong Mondot with an almost briny aftertaste, thsi deserves four of five years in bottle. Drink 2028-2044. 93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) Aymeric de Gironde, who without exaggeration has revolutionized this Saint-Émilion estate, told me that in 2021, the Troplong Mondot comes exclusively from the heart of the original vineyard, mainly on molasse soils. It was picked from September 17 to October 18, unusually finishing with the Merlot, and has 13.5% alcohol without any chaptalization or saignée. The focused blackberry, raspberry and iris petal scented nose is very delineated, yet more reserved than recent vintages. (A second sample at the château had a little more chutzpah.) The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly chalky tannins and a fine bead of acidity that imports liveliness and verticality. This Troplong-Mondot is imbued with a palpably mineral-driven finish. I am full of admiration for this cerebral wine, though I wager that it will need several years in bottle. Drink 2028-2044. To entertain tasters, as if they were not being entertained enough with the 2021s, Aymeric de Gironde has organized a Top Gear-inspired racecourse for his miniature Jeeps. I declined an invitation to have a go at breaking the lap record. De Gironde has radically changed course since Xavier Pariente sold his estate, pursuant of a more early-picked, terroir-driven style. “We cropped at 47hL/ha as we were not affected by frost,” he told me. “We found that the molasse soils imparted the substance in the 2021, whereas the second label, Mondot, comes solely from the recently purchased chateaux [Clos Labarde and Château Bellisle Mondotte]. We found that the blending was difficult and the 2021 was complicated to vinify. For the first time in my life, I could not see the outcome. It didn’t seem to glue together, but when we added the final lots. it gelled.” 96 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) The 2021 Troplong Mondot is fabulous. It offers up a rush of dark red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, leather, menthol, cedar and blood orange. As always, Troplong Mondot is marked by a strong presence of Cabernet Sauvignon that seems to add brooding intensity, muscle and power. I tasted it three times. A bottle given a brief decant of about 20 minutes showed best. The 2021 spent 13 months in oak (two months less than normal), in a mix of 60% new, 21% 20-hectoliter cask and 19% once-used. The 2021 is a Troplong Mondot of extreme purity and class. Drink 2031-2051. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Troplong Mondot is shockingly raw and untamed, but in the very best sense of those terms. A wine of energy and pure power, the 2021 is going to need a number of years to be at its best, but it is certainly very impressive in the early going. The 2021 clocks in at 13,5% which is not been seen here since the 1990s. The 2021 is not an easy wine to taste at this stage, as it is not fully formed. I won’t be surprised if the 2021 turns out even better than this note suggests. It is a dazzling wine by any measure, and a far cry from the wines of decade ago, when the malolactic fermentations were often not finished when en primeur samples were presented! Superb. Drink 2031-2051. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Troplong Mondot unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and plums mingled with violets, exotic spices and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, deep and complete, the wine is layered and complex, with all the depth and authority that one expects from this clay-driven terroir, its concentrated core of fruit underpinned by sweet tannins and lively animating acids, concluding with a long, resonant finish. A blend of 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc with a remarkably low pH of 3.35, it's the first vintage produced in the estate's state-of-the-art new winery. 93-96 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) The 2021 Troplong Mondot shows considerable promise, exhibiting aromas of plums and wild berries mingled with notions of sweet spices, rose petals, vine smoke and raw cocoa, followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless palate endowed with impressive intensity and texture. Built around beautifully refined, powdery tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, mouthwateringly saline finish. Macerations here were long but gentle, including a long cold soak before fermentation, and the blend, after much deliberation, is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Tasted four times. 95-96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) Lovely density here with a solid center-palate of fruit and fine tannins. Medium body. Underlying salinity and oyster-shell character in the finish. Well defined. Grows at the end. 95 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) The natural density that they have at Troplong was extremely helpful in a vintage like 2021. This is a little more reserved than a typical year, but very much delivers signature power. Expect gunsmoke, fern and raspberry leaf alongside cherry pit and saffron salinity, black cherry fruits, rosebud, anis, fennel spice, all with the powerful and concentrated signature of limestone. I was here on the last day of harvest, and I remember how healthy the grapes were. This is the first vintage where the cellar has been completely finished, moving from 20 to 42 tanks. No chaptilisation (but the natural 13.5%abv is extremely rare at this late ripening property, and a real indication of how long it took for sugars to climb in this vintage). 17/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. 47 hl/ha. Cask sample. Deep colour. Floral notes with an attractive density of fruit. Finely structured, velvety tannins providing the framework. Minty freshness as well, the finish chalky. Balanced with all the components in place. 13.5%. Drink 2027 – 2042. 94-97 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2022) 96-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2022) 97-98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2022) Troplong MondotTroplong Mondot kijkt uit over Saint Emilion en is er één van de grootste Châteaux met 43 hectare "d'un seul tenant". Het bezit un grand terroir argilo-calcaire (molasses calcaires de l'Agenais met 25 sous-terroirs, met ook silex en kalk. Die geologie zorgt voor fraîcheur, minéralité en verfijning. Chemische onkruidverdelgers, meststoffen of insecticides worden er geweerd. |