 | 2021 Ch. Trotanoy - Pomerol | € 186,00 (€ 225,06) |
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IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Trotanoy has one of the best aromatic profiles that I encountered amongst the Pomerols in this season: lovely, vivacious black cherries, wild strawberry, truffle and pencil box aromas that are beautifully defined and focused. This is real class. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and focusesd with impressive weight and tension for such a challenging vintage. It takes a really terrible vintage to make a poor Trotanoy, and this is certainly a triumph in the face of adversity. Drink 2030-2065. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Trotanoy was picked September 27 to October 4. This has one of the most marine-influenced aromatic profiles among the Pomerol wines tasted, very well defined and even uncompromising in some ways, revealing touches of iris flower and sea cave. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. A typical Trotanoy structure: maybe aloof in some ways, yet compelling at the same time. Sappy on the persistent finish. This should turn into a very cerebral Pomerol that will appeal to those who adore this estate. Not for the first time, this is JP Moueix's star this year. Drink 2030-2065. “It is a vintage of men and women,” Edouard Moueix began when we repaired to his office for a discussion about the growing season. What did he mean? Did the women make better wines? “No, I mean that there was no right or wrong. You had to change strategy. At every step, there were two elements, those we could fight and those we could not. It was a complicated year. We saw the importance of people that live on the vineyard and can react when vital to do so. We did quite a lot of green harvesting so that vines could concentrate on fewer clusters. We had to take quite a few risks during the harvest as the forecast was always forecasting tremendous rain, rain that never came. When you are a team, you take risks compared to if you work on your own. We were supposed to have 80-100mm but we got just 2mm as the storms passed north, more towards Cognac. We conducted a gentle extraction as we were looking for elegance. You had to be very careful to obtain the right tannins otherwise they could be harsh and green. So we drained the vats after 18 days of cuvaison, with fewer pump-overs to obtain the minimum needed for colour, tannins, polyphenols etc. since the seeds were not ripe. We have not chaptalised and we have 13.2-13.8% alcohol with no vin de presse, which is quite unusual. We usually blend this before malolactic, before we found that the addition did not work. We did saignée for lots that had larger berries but nothing more than usual. It is a heterogenous vintage. We were trying to win battles against the conditions.” 93 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) The 2021 Trotanoy has come together nicely. Its mid-weight structure is impossible to miss. A hint of new oak, rarely perceptible here, is a clear sign of the lighter style of the year. Spice, leather, tobacco and cedar lead into a core of dark-toned fruit. The 2021 is a rare Trotanoy that will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drink 2023-2061. 92-94 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Trotanoy is a dense, powerful wine, despite the challenges of the year. There is a real feeling of substance that comes through in Trotanoy, even in 2021. Dark fruit, gravel, smoke, licorice and incense give Trotanoy its brooding, somber personality. More than anything else, though, it is the wine’s sheer amplitude that impresses most. Drink 2031-2061. 94+ Wiliam Kelley - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) While the 2021 Trotanoy is the most muscular, structured wine in the Mouiex portfolio this year, by Trotanoy's standards, the wine is remarkably supple and charming, and it will only require a modicum of cellaring, even if it will reward more. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, plums and berries mingled with sweet soil tones, licorice and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, with a broad attack, a creamy core of fruit and sweet, powdery tannins that only gently assert themselves on the finish. Drink 2027-2045. 93-95 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) The most muscular, structured wine in the Mouiex portfolio is the 2021 Trotanoy, a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered Pomerol evocative of cherries, licorice, loamy soil, black truffles and spices. Impressively concentrated and tightly wound, it will reward bottle age. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) A very fine-tannined red with ultra-fine, polished and velvety tannins that run the length of the wine. Medium-bodied. Very classy. 94 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) This has that slow burn build that Trotanoy does so well, touches of crushed coffee bean, cassis, truffles. Discreet and closed down right now, stays true to the brand, which is a pleasure for those of us who love this estate. It has plenty of tannic structure but is less packed with fruits through the mid palate than usual so may be ready to approach earlier than usual. September 27 to October 4. 94-96+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Trotanoy is 100% Merlot. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it sashays out with perfumed notes of violets, licorice, and crushed cloves over a core of blackberries and black raspberries, plus a hint of fragrant earth. Medium-bodied, the palate is achingly subtle with a wonderful array of mineral and savory accents to the pristine, fantastically vibrant black fruits, with a finish that goes on and on. This is a jaw-dropping achievement! Drink 2028-2052. 16,5/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 100% Merlot. Cask sample. Not the most powerful or dense Trotanoy but neat and concise. More open than usual at this stage with red-berry and blood-orange notes. Juicy and almost accessible, the tannins so fine they are practically invisible. But there is an undertow of structure that provides grip and persistence. Drink 2028 – 2040. 96 Terre des Vins (Mei 2022) 95-96 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2022) 97-98 Alexandre Ma (Mei 2022) TrotanoyHet basisbeginsel dat Trotanoy leidt is superlatieve majesteit. In zijn zelfzekere en beredeneerde stijl, vertoont het de absolute perfectie die slechts enkele Grands Vins kunnen bereiken. Trotanoy is oud Frans voor « trop anoi » of « trop ennuie » (waarmee verwezen wordt naar de lastige bodembewerking). De wijngaard van zo'n 7,2 hectare is één van de best georiënteerde percelen van Pomerol en is sinds 1953 eigendom van Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix. De bodems kunnen we opsplitsen in enerzijds graves rustend op klei en anderzijds "argiles noires profondes". Beide rusten op een substraat van "crasse de fer" die de wijnen zowel kracht, diepte als complexiteit bezorgen. De wijngaard bleef gedeeltelijk gespaard van de grote vorst die Bordeaux teisterde in de nacht van 19 op 20 februari 1956 en benadert een gemiddelde leeftijd van 35-40 jaar. Hij wordt over het algemeen geplukt over drie halve dagen. De vinificatie gebeurt in ciment en de élevage in de helft nieuwe eik. Trotanoy is uiterst begerenswaardig en grote millésimes mogen vele decennia lang worden gekelderd. Er worden jaarlijks slechts zo’n 2.000 kistjes gemaakt. Trotanoy zet een indrukwekkende reeks prachtige millésimes verder. Trotanoy 2005 tot 2012 rivaliseren telkens met Pétrus. Geen enkele Pomerol, tenzij misschien Lafeur, kan deze status ambiëren. Vroeger, tussen 1960 en 1975, was dit al het geval en nu dus opnieuw... MoueixChristian Moueix is net zoals zijn legendarische vader, Jean-Pierre Moueix, vereenzelvigd met Pomerol. Na zijn studies aan UC Davis eind de jaren 1960, vervoegde hij de Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix waarvan hij de leiding nam. Zijn zoon Edouard staat nu aan zijn zijde. Hij bestuurt een indrukwekkend imperium dat ondermeer La Fleur Pétrus, Trotanoy en Hosanna omvat in Pomerol, Bélair Monange in Saint Emilion en Dominus in Napa Valley. In 2008 werd hij “Decanter Man of the Year”. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||