 | 2020 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Bas - Domaine de Montille | € 342,15 (€ 414,00) |
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IN DE PERS 93-95 Neal Martin - vinous.com The 2020 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas ler Cru has a very strict and linear nose at first, mineral-driven with light undergrowth scents, the 100% whole cluster lending a light pepperiness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip on the entry, quite firm in the mouth, good volumes with a lot of backbone and sturdiness on the finish. This will require 5-7 years to soften so have a cellar handy. Closure: Diam. Drink 2026-2046. Head winemaker Brian Sieve was on hand to show me through de Montilles wide range of whites and reds. "There are vintages where the vigneron chooses the date to pick, but in 2020 (and 2021) it was determined by Nature," he opined. "So, that means we can't dictate the style. Then there are logistical factors that come into play, like your pickers' availability to pick at the right time. You tend to lose students the later it is, but you get older people still coming, and then it becomes difficult from later September. In 2020 we had to be ready to pick as soon as we came back from vacation because I wanted to stay in the red fruit profile. We were at the limits, really, in terms of ripeness and acidity. The white was less complicated than the red. What saved us was the quantity of fruit lin terms of lowering concentration] Everything was over 35hl/ha. I am looking forward to seeing where these wines are after the second winter in barrel because there will be some good reductive characteristics. The alcohol levels are around 12.5° to 13.0°. Most whites are under Diam." There is a lot to admire in de Montille's 2020s in both colors. By managing to stay in that red fruit profile, Sieve retained that sense of Pinoté that eluded others, avoiding any confit-like aromas or flavors. In addition, the use of whole bunch is very assiduous (see tasting notes for exact percentages) and lends the reds freshness when it might have been lacking. Highlights here include the Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas, a brilliant Clos de Vougeot, a great Pommard-like Volnay Les Mitans and, of course, the two cuvées from Les Malconsorts, which I found quite different this year. Domaine de MontilleSinds 1730 kenden 9 generaties de Montille een bewogen geschiedenis. De twee jongste generaties breidden het Domaine weer uit tot 37 hectare (20 rood en 17 wit). De eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen van vader Hubert de Montille werden altijd al gesmaakt. Tegelijk bottelde deze advocaat, overleden in 2014, au Domaine zoals DRC, Roumier of Rousseau en hielp hij de grenzen van Grand Cru en Premier Cru uittekenen. Zoon Etienne innoveerde als eerste met biodynamie. Geïnspireerd door Alix en Jean-Marc Roulot, zijn zus en schoonbroer, bezorgde hij zijn witte wijnen fijnere zuren, lengte en precisie. De rode wijnen werden vlijtiger met meer vinificatie en grappe entière en minder koude pre-fermentatie en pigeage. Na vinificatie op vat verlengden ook de élevages. Vastberaden in zijn zoektocht naar karakter, stijl en structuur, sublimeert wijnmaker Brian Sieve de terroirs de Bourgogne. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||