Pontet Canet staat vandaag hoog aan het firmament van de wijnen van Bordeaux. “The road to stardom” wordt met de 2015 verdergezet: enkele Premiers Grand Crus Classés worden weer eens in verlegenheid gebracht. Alle accolades zijn dik verdiend: voor Antonio Galloni (95-98) is het “one of the wines of the vintage”, en James Suckling (97-98) of Neal Martin (94-96) blijven niet achter. Terecht: de neus is fenomenaal, de tannine majestueus en komt complexloos op je af. De fantastische frisheid heeft hier een “andere” verschijning en verleidt op een heel eigen, persoonlijke wijze. De breedte van de smaakervaring is zo compleet dat alle zintuigen evenzeer worden geprikkeld. Intensiteit, zelfzekerheid in de aroma’s, precisie in de afwerking, en dan dit hemels rood fruit dat alles omvat. DAT is Grand Vin. Bravo aan Alfred en Melanie Tesseron alsook aan Jean-Michel Comme. Wat een wijn!
IN DE PERS
94 Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate - robertparker.com (Maart 2018)
The 2015 Pontet-Canet has an intense, crushed violet-scented bouquet that as I remarked upon out of barrel, imparts a Margaux-like personality. It is quite high-toned and exuberant at this early juncture and will clearly require several years to calm down. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent black fruit on the entry, quite spicy with notes of black pepper and sage, perhaps just a little fiery in personality. However, counterbalancing this is a sense of harmony and focus. It is just a bit boisterous at this early stage, then the finish is tightly wound albeit well defined, leaving that spiciness as its calling card on the aftertaste. Anticipated maturity: 2022 - 2045.
94-96 Neal Martin – The Wine Advocate Issue #224 (April 2016) – robertparker.com
The 2015 Pontet Canet was tasted on two occasions around two weeks apart and I noticed a superior showing the second time around. This year is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked from 18 September apropos the Merlot and from 28 September for the Cabernet, finishing on 3 October. It is matured in 50% new oak, 35% concrete and 15% one-year-old barrels. It has a pure and perfumed bouquet with small dark cherries, red plum and subtle violet scents, perhaps a little Margaux-like in style, the second showing demonstrating a little more red fruit character. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture on the entry. There is nicely judged acidity here, moderate depth, very supple tannin that lend this a silky texture. There is modest weight towards the second half, perhaps spicier than some of its Pauillac peers with an edgy, lightly peppered finish. It is an intriguing and complex, almost mercurial Pontet-Canet, a wine that I suspect will gain more weight during its élevage. Afford this 5-8 years in bottle and you should have a delicious, intellectual Pontet-Canet on your hands. Drink: 2022-2045.
98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2018)
97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2016)
This is very fine and silky with a beautiful vivid blackberry and blueberry character. Super polished tannins. Refined and very, very long. Fabulous harmony to this young wine. Very classic Bordeaux. Superb depth and length. Real Bordeaux.
97+ Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Februari 2018)
Proprietor Alfred Tesseron and winemaker Jean-Michel Comme produced an absolutely stellar Pontet-Canet in 2015. Sumptuous, racy and totally inviting, the 2015 is all class. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, spice and exotic floral notes build as the 2015 shows off its alluring personality. Even with all of its raciness, the 2015 speaks with authority and power. Fine tannins extend the persistent, highly nuanced finish. The 2015 is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot aged 50% new oak, 4% in terra cotta and 15% in neutral oak. Tasted three times. Drink 2023-2040.
95-98 Antonio Galloni – Vinous - vinous.com (April 2016)
One of the wines of the vintage, the 2015 Pontet-Canet oozes class, finesse and pure pedigree. A hypothetical combination of the 2010 (for its dark fruit and tannic structure) and the 2009 (for its voluptuous fruit), the 2015 offers remarkable intensity, power and grace. A host of exotic floral and spice notes wrap around the dark, racy finish. In a word: magnificent!
96+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown - The Wine Advocate - robertparker.com (Februari 2018)
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, 50% of the 2015 Pontet-Canet was aged in new French oak, while 15% was matured in second fill barrels and 35% in cement amphorae. Deep garnet-purple in color, the nose opens with exuberant black currants, red currants and black raspberries scents plus an evocative undercurrent of cedar chest, dusty earth, cloves, chocolate box and Provence herbs with a fragrant waft of lavender. Medium to full-bodied and built like a brick house with very firm, wonderfully grainy tannins and black and red fruits charged with the most singular energy, it finishes with incredible persistence and depth. Drink 2024-2045.
17/20 Jancis Robinson – jancisrobinson.com (April 2016)
50% new oak. 35% amphora. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3%Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Picked relatively early, 18 September to 3 October, because they ripen earlier. Dark purplish crimson. Very ripe start and then rather drying tannins on the end. Wild and lively but a little bit heavy. I'm looking for a little more freshness. There's austerity and astringency (because of the amphorae influence?) but I'm not sure it compensates for the lack of acidity. Savoury, salty finish. Distinctive. 13.5%. Drink: 2025-2040.
96 Steven Spurrier - Decanter Magazine – decanter.com (April 2016)
Deep, velvety texture on the palate and wild flowers on the nose; unctuous yet firm with pristine clarity. A great wine by any standards – and the standards of Alfred Tesseron for his biodynamic vineyards and amphora-matured wine are magnificently evident. Drink: 2022-2045.
18/20 René Gabriel – Wein Wisser (April 2016)
97 Roger Voss - Wine Enthusiast winemag.com (Februari 2018)
Succulent fruits, rich tannins and juicy acidity are in perfect harmony in this wine produced from biodynamic grapes. It has a rich, velvet texture and dense structure, sumptuous and already balanced and delicious. However do not be fooled, this is a serious wine for aging. Drink no earlier than 2026.
96-98 Roger Voss - Wine Enthusiast (April 2016)
18,5-19/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2016)
19/20 Revue des Vins de France (April 2016)
18/20 Jacques Dupont - Le Point (April 2016)
94 of 17/20 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2016)
95-97 Jeff Leve – The Wine Cellar Insider – thewinecellarinsider.com (April 2016)
94 Tim Atkin – timatkin.com (April 2016)
The thick skins of the 2015 grapes made it easier to be organic and biodynamic when the rains came in late August, according to winemaker, Jean-Michel Comme. This is certainly a very serious, concentrated Pontet-Canet with compact, almost Italianate tannins, plenty of oak and layers of dark, plummy fruit. The finish is just a tad dry perhaps. Drink: 2022-2035. Pontet CanetPontet Canet zet de trend. Al tien millésimes lang staan biodynamie, harmonie met de natuur en "cette compréhension du vivant" centraal in hun gedetailleerde werkwijze. Elke wijnstok wordt piekfijn gesoigneerd "zoals een individu gewaardeerd wordt voor zijn originaliteit". Daarmee werden op Pontet Canet sommige "traditionele" ingrepen zoals de ébourgeonnage bijvoorbeeld overbodig. De voordelen zijn veelvuldig: natuurlijk lage rendementen (niet meer dan 30 hl/ha), een grotere natuurlijke weerbaarheid van de wijnstok en sneller rijpe druiven. Gaandeweg zijn trekpaarden, koeien en ezels de wijngaard gaan bevolken; elk heeft er zijn functie en nut. Minimalisme typeert de vinificatie. Alles gebeurt handmatig en electriciteit werd verbannen uit het productieproces. Een dertigtal mensen sorteert de oogst en cuves worden pomploos gevuld. Ook het élevage is baanbrekend met amfores van 900 liter. De wijngaard is aangeplant met 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. De ware test is in het glas en wijnliefhebbers wereldwijd juichen. Pontet Canet kreeg perfecte parkerscores voor 2009 en 2010.
TesseronVooral sinds 1994 maakte Alfred Tesseron klassieke Pauillac van hoog niveau, maar in de recentste wijnjaren overtreft hij niet alleen zichzelf, maar ook de meeste van zijn collega’s. De verbluffende jonge wijnen die hij brengt, aanvankelijk met zijn rechterhand Jean-Michel Comme, maakten van Pontet Canet misschien het meest besproken Château, in en buiten Bordeaux. Dochter Justine Tesseron is op vandaag de knappe Directeur Général, die Pontet Canet leidt samen met broer Noé en nichten Melanie en Phiippine.
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