Het assemblage maakt het duidelijk: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. Onder de controle van Nicolas Glumineau, blijft Pichon Lalande het overwicht aan Cabernet Sauvignon benadrukken. De charme blijft, maar de Comtesse is nu meer Pauillacaise. Een dieppurperen kleur legt geen schaduw op de explosieve neus cassis, kamperfoelie, ceder en geroosterde koffie. In de mond brengt de Comtesse een zowaar nog duidelijker lofzang aan de Schoonheid. Esthetiek ten top. De zuivere cassis en fluwelen tannine verlenen een verleidelijke textuur en kern van rijp fruit. Het naadloos geheel straalt met plezier tot in de mooie finale. Dit is een méér dan geslaagde Pichon Lalande.
IN DE PERS
93-95 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Pichon-Lalande was picked from 7 September to 2 October and underwent a 23 day cuvaison period. It is intense on the nose, the new oak coming through a little strongly since the sample came from a new barrel, the final blend consisting of 60% new wood. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, the Cabernet Sauvignon driving this alone with layers of black fruit laced with cedar and graphite. It is a very “Pauillac” Pichon Lalande, less opulent and giving than recent vintages and more in the style of say, the 1996 or 2010. There is very good persistence on the saline finish but it is clearly a wine that is going to require more cellaring than its peers. Tasted four times in total, each time this gained more substance and density. Drink 2022-2045.
92-95 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2018)
The 2017 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is gorgeous, but it is also going to need time to come together. The sensuality and allure typical of so many Pauillacs is not at all evident here. A rush of dark cherry, plum, smoke, charcoal and exotic spice make a strong opening statement in a powerful Pichon Comtesse that is not ready to show all of its cards. The 2017 was incredibly reticent in several tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term potential. Today, though, the 2017 is dense, powerful and closed in on itself, without the layers that define the 2014, 2015 and 2016.
94 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2018)
If you just taste the big name Pauillacs, you would be hard-pressed to understand that 2017 has been a challenging year. This is one of my wines of the vintage, no question. It's from 21ha, biodynamically farmed, with Vincent Masson as consultant. Just a few plots further away from the river were affected by frost. The slight austerity of 2017 is evident, with a savoury quality to the fruit, but this is exceptionally good, with plenty of stunning fruit and well defined tannins. The aromatics are very refined, and the intense cassis fruit doesn't sacrifice any intensity or power. It demonstrates the energy that Comtesse has displayed so consistently in recent vintages, with gorgeous finesse and structure to the tannins. The new cellar has raised the level of Cabernet from 65% to 70+%, with 12% press wine. This is going to age extremely well. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040
96 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (Maart 2020)
Composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2017 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a medium to deep garnet-purple color and is a little closed to begin, soon revealing floral notes of lilacs and lavender over a core of black raspberries, warm blackberries and forest floor plus touches of star anise and stewed black tea. Medium-bodied, the palate is a bundle of energy and tension with softly played tannins and beautiful floral and black fruit layers, finishing with a long-lingering whisper. Drink 2021-2045.
94-96 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – robertparker.com (April 2018)
This barrel sample is 100% new oak, whereas the final blend will be only 60% new oak. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2017 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is very deep garnet-purple in color with an incredibly fragrant nose of roses, lavender and baking spices over a core of crushed blackcurrants, wild blueberries and fresh plums plus touches of iron ore and underbrush. Medium-bodied and elegant with firm, grainy tannins, it's quite taut and muscular, with lots of perfumed and mineral layers and a long finish with lingering cinnamon and anise notes.
95-96 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Maart 2018)
This is a really fascinating young Pichon Lalande with a dense center palate of currants, crushed stones, salt and seashells. Really long and intense. Wonderful energy. Showing character of some of the top years of the 1980s.
17/20 Julia Harding MW – jancisrobinson.com (April 2018)
Dark crimson with soft pink rim. Lightly leafy dark fruit. Super-smooth texture and some fruit sweetness on the mid palate. Firm, dark and elegant on the finish. Sinewy and quite supple and long even without huge intensity, showing the charm of Comtesse and still clearly revealing its Pauillac origins. A smart, elegant wine reflecting the vintage. Tannins are tender – if more serious than on the Réserve de la Comtesse – and fruit just right. Drink 2027-2042.
93-95 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2018)
The Grand Vin 2017 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande checks in as a rough blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc, with yields a modest 36 hectoliters per hectare. Still again in 60% new French oak, it sports a deep ruby color as well as textbook Cabernet flair in its black and blue fruits, leafy herbs, violets, and building minerality. Hitting 13.1% alcohol, it’s medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless on the palate. It doesn’t have the weight of the 2015 but shines for its incredible purity and precision.
95 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr (April 2018)
92-95 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (Maart 2018)
Solid, with a rounded, enticing core of plum and black currant preserve flavors supported by savory and tobacco notes. Has sleek tannins and fresh acidity for ample length and a nice graphite edge at the end.
17,5-18,5/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2018)
95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2018)
Pichon ComtessePichon Lalande is de Amazone onder de wijnen en blijft zeer populair. Ook in Azië spreken hun licht exotische, kruidige karakter, het volmondig fruit en de gepolijste textuur aan. Het zijn elegante wijnen met ambitie. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc en 5% Petit Verdot.
De percelen van deze mooie wijngaard van 89 hectare dragen mooie namen als Les Ardileys, le Moulin Riche, Longueville, Grand'Plante, la Chapelle, Virginie, Sophie, Marie-Joséphine... De ene ligt nabij de Gironde langs Latour, de andere strekken zich uit over het plateau ten Zuiden van Pauillac en we vinden zelfs 11 hectare aan de overkant van het beekje de "jalle" in Saint Julien. Zoals bij Palmer in Margaux brengt een relatief hoge proportie Merlot in het assemblage vrij zachte, soepele wijnen.
Pichon Lalande was de bruidschat van Pierre Mazure de Rauzan toen zijn dochter Thérèse huwde met Jacques de Pichon Longueville in 1700. In 1850 werd 3/5 geërfd door de drie zusters van de Baron Pichon en in 1926 samengebracht in Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. Vanaf 1978, onder het bewind van "la Générale", de dynamische Madame de Lencquesaign, werd de rivaliteit met overbuur Pichon Baron aangewakkerd. Vandaag beheert Nicolas Glumineau deze Grand Cru Classé namens de eigenaar sinds 2007, het Champagnehuis Louis Roederer. De investeringen zijn groots opgevat; de nieuwe installaties laten voortaan perfecte "vinification parcellaire" toe en werken geheel op zwaartekracht... Maar het uitzicht over Château Latour en de Gironde blijft enig! In de komende wijnjaren verwachten wij zonder meer grandioze wijnen van Pichon Lalande, de legendarische 1982 achterna... | |
