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 | 2018 Ch. Lafleur - Pomerol | € 1400,00 (€ 1694,00) |
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Onze wijn van het jaar. Dit is het in vijf woorden. De fenomenale Lafleur 2018 vertegenwoordigt perfectie in wijn. Dit proeven is een feest: nergens anders kan tannine zo verbluffen, nergens danst een overvloed aan florale, minerale en fruitige nuances zo op het palet. Nergens is een wijn zo gedetailleerd en geniaal. Lafleur is rijkelijk en fijn gestructureerd, zonder de minste schroom. De onwezenlijke fruitige kern wordt uitgedrukt in gewichtloze intensiteit. Dit is mythisch in elk opzicht from start to finish. Welke finish? De verfijning lijkt eindeloos verder te gaan. Opmerken dat dit een kruising is tussen 2016, 2009 en 2010 verduidelijkt niet veel. Baptiste Guinaudeau’s omschrijving van Lafleur 2018 als zijn “flying carpet” wél. Samen met zijn ervaren team plant hij een nieuwe mijlpaal in de legendarische geschiedenis van Lafleur. 54% Bouchet en 46% Merlot. Bouchet is de oude variant van Cabernet Franc waarvan het genetisch materiaal dateert van voor de grote vorst van 1956. 3,8 van de 4,5 hectare worden gebruikt voor Lafleur. De rest (0,7 ha) levert Pensées de Lafleur. IN DE PERS 97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The first thing to say about the 2018 Lafleur is that it is completely different from the Les Pensées and in fact is more similar to Guinaudeau’s Les Perrières, which is unsurprising given that both come from stony soils (limestone there, gravel here) whereas Les Pensées comes from more clayey soils. This has a very refined bouquet, the blue fruit that I picked up from barrel receding to make way for more red fruit, cranberry and even touches of pomegranate. Monitoring this half-bottle over 24 hours, the Pomerol traits of black truffle and a faint scent of morels gradually emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that frame the red berry fruit. The Bouchet (Cabernet Franc), which comprises 54% of the blend, imparts a wonderful peppery note that lingers 45 seconds after the wine has exited, the tongue tingling long after it says goodbye. At just under 15% alcohol, one might expect a little warmth on the finish, but it is not detectable. A superb Lafleur, albeit one that will demand several years’ cellaring. Drink 2026-2060. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Lafleur was picked from 12 to 15 September for the Merlot and 1 to 4 October for the Cabernet Franc. Initially it seems quite reserved on the nose, tightly coiled blackberry and raspberry fruit, fleeting glimpses of black truffle and smoke, a quintessential Lafleur. Like the Les Pensées, subtle blue fruit aromas emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, rounded tannins that belie the backbone and density of this Lafleur. I adore the symmetry of this Lafleur. There is beguiling balance and poise, plus an incredibly long tail on the finish, the most tingling with residual spiciness. This is a stunning 2018 from Baptiste Guinaudeau and his team and I anticipate this ending up at the top of my banded score once in bottle. Drink 2026-2060. 100 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Lafleur is mesmerizing. What a wine! The aromatics alone are spellbinding. There is no need to actually taste the 2018 to know how profound it is. Silky and caressing, with phenomenal persistence, the 2018 is a total knock-out. Spice, cedar, blood orange, sage, mint, rose petal and kirsch all race out of the glass, saturating the palate with a dazzling concoction of aromas, textures and flavors. Readers lucky enough to find it should not hesitate. Drink 2028-2058. 97-100 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Lafleur is a stratospherically beautiful, deeply moving wine. A Pomerol of stunning aromatic intensity and depth, Lafleur simply has everything. All the elements come together in a wine that is both rich and yet also remarkably light on its feet. An exotic mélange of blood orange, sage, mint, sweet rose petal and inky red/purplish fruit add explosive energy, leading to a finish of substantial depth and resonance. Stated simply, Lafleur is one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it! 100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2021) So subtle and complex with blackberry, blueberry, fresh bark, fresh black truffles and light wet earth, as well as forest floor. Full-bodied, yet linear and so long with an amazingly polished and refined tannin structure and finesse that draws you deep and down in the palate. It opens incredibly in the glass. What a wine. Goes on for minutes. A real beauty. Something so true and ethereal here. Try after 2026. 100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) The sweetness of fruit in the center palate is incredible with a ripe-plum and currant undertone. Very aromatic already. Full-bodied, tight and compressed with a tannin quality that folds beautifully into the wine. Incredible finish. Such, such power with finesse. Tight but glorious at this stage. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) Another exceptional vintage at Lafleur, with great concentration and intensity, holding back just enough to keep you guessing. The wine is concentrated but creamy and definitely reminiscent of 2016 but with a touch more velvet to the tannins and unlikely to close down as tightly or for as long. Deep dark chocolate and liquorice notes gently layer up next to succulent black fruits and softer floral notes with the more architectural texture of slate doing its bit to add poise and precision. Normal yields were recorded as there was no mildew but being Lafleur they don't talk in hl/ha but express that as around 3/4 of a bottle per vine!! Drinking Window 2026 - 2044. 98+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Lafleur is a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the nose absolutely shuts down upon first pour. After a lot of air, it slowly unfurls to reveal alluring scents of fresh black cherries, ripe blackberries and redcurrant jelly, leading to suggestions of sandalwood, pencil shavings, lilacs and forest floor, with emerging, heady wafts of camphor, iron ore and Indian spices. The rich, full-bodied palate is equally slow to read, offering whispers and murmurs of earth and exotic spice-laced black fruits with glimpses at a fleeting floral undercurrent, framed by firm, finely grained tannins and beautifully knit freshness, finishing with an edifying perfume. This is liquid poetry, but I would touch it for 7-8 years, at least. Should you be around in 40 years' time, expect it to blow your mind. Drink 2028-2070. 97-100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The 2018 Lafleur is a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc harvested on October 1 and 4, with 46% Merlot harvested September 12 and 15. Deep garnet-purple colored, it rocks up charged with energetic iron ore, crushed rocks and scorched earth notes over a core of blueberry compote, Morello cherries, black raspberries and stewed plums plus suggestions of violets, menthol and cardamom. Full-bodied, powerful, opulent and incredibly seductive, the palate is mind blowing with its through-the-roof velvety tannins and bright freshness supporting layer upon drop-dead gorgeous layer of fragrant black fruits, mineral notions and earth, finishing epically long and perfumed. 100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Maart 2021) 97-99+ Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) More deeply colored, the 2018 Lafleur is one heavenly barrel sample that’s certainly going to end up being one of the wines of the vintage. Based on 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot, all from the gravelly portions of the vineyard, it boasts a massive bouquet of smoked blue fruits, black raspberries, scorched earth, orange blossom, tobacco, and cocoa. Deep, full-bodied, yet weightless and seamless, with a Grand Cru Burgundy-like texture, it has a stacked mid-palate, fine tannins, and a great, great finish. While most wines from the vintage have plenty of upfront appeal, there’s a classic, backward style here that makes me think this will require a solid decade of cellaring. 19,5/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 18,5/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) 54% Bouchet (local clone of Cabernet Franc, also known as Bouchet Franc or Gros Bouchet), 46% Merlot. Barrel sample. Darkest crimson. Both spicy and creamy on the nose, and with a cool stony fragrance as well as the delicate but focused black fruits. Darker fruited than many vintages. Silky and papery finesse with dark-red fruit purity and so much charm and finesse in the texture. A touch peppery, very dry, almost chalky, so light and dancing and very long. Open but deceptively so because there is huge ageing potential and depth here. Incredibly lithe. Unique in Bordeaux in its style, finesse and hidden concentration. (JH) Drink 2028-2043. 100 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 19-20/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 98-100 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) IN DE WOORDEN VAN OMRI RAM VAN CHATEAU LAFLEUR It was rainy for the first six to seven months, and then it was dry. It was hot when it was rainy and humid. So, there weren’t any exaggerated reserves of water in the soil. But the growth was quite intense after the rains—all that growth needed managing. Our aim was prevention and improvement of the vine’s condition before the mildew took hold. We sprayed if we had to but tried to avoid it when we could. When it turned dry, the vines, in parts of the vineyard, went into hydric stress, but it was not as marked visually as you saw in 2016. The shock from wet into dry was not that big because of the continuation of heat. Then you just needed to make the right harvest decision... We feel this is the fourth great successive year for us. GuinaudeauJacques en Sylvie Guinaudeau en nu hun zoon en schoondochter, Baptiste en Julie, staan aan het roer van Lafleur. In Pomerol staat deze legendarische wijngaard bekend als «le vignoble-jardin ». Lafleur is eigendom van hun familie sinds 1872, één jaar na de stichting van Vyncke-Daels… | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||