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 | 2018 Ch. Trotanoy - Pomerol | € 310,00 (€ 375,10) |
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“Ein Meisterstück” in drie verrassingen. De majesteit van Trotanoy 2018 is grandioos en zonder gelijke. Wat een wijn! Het succes van Cabernet Franc op de rechteroever is een feit en Trotanoy is de uitzondering die de regel bevestigt: dit is slechts 10% Cabernet Franc en de rest gewoonweg Merlot. Dit is de eerste verrassing. De intensiteit is out of this world en blijft ons achtervolgen. We werken forensisch terug om dit onder woorden te brengen. De entrée is suave en plaatst majesteit onmiddellijk centraal. Deze hyper-intense rondeur lijkt weinig te verbergen, terwijl een jonge Trotanoy doorgaans zo gebald en compact is op dit stadium. Zou deze tweede verrassing misleidend zijn? Dit monument staat er voor vele, vele jaren. Zijn zuivere persona alarmeert een derde keer; Trotanoy is dikwijls terrien en emotief. Dit is een stadsmens. Trotanoy 2018 roept een intens portret van een overstijgend historisch personnage op, maar welke reus precies? Victor Hugo of Auguste Rodin misschien? Of is het een Carravagio met bloedstollende bijbelscènes op een zwarte achtergrond? Ik laat het in het midden, geniet en wil eigenlijk niets anders meer proeven. Wondermooie complexiteit en voor mij één van de twee perfecte wijnen van het wijnjaar 2018. Een gigant. 7,2 hectare op graves argileuses et argiles noires sur crasse de fer. IN DE PERS 98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Trotanoy is one that I described as one of the vintage’s best wines when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, it delivers a heavenly bouquet of mixed red and black fruit, iron filing, truffle and mint aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful structure and poise. This is an extremely complex Pomerol, lightly peppered with gentle but insistent grip toward the finish. You can feel it lingering in the mouth for 60 seconds afterward. Returning to the same bottle the following day, it had, remarkably, blossomed into an even greater Pomerol, gaining cohesion and revealing its symmetry and structure, with even more complexity and nuance on the finish. A titan. Drink 2025-2060. 97-99 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Oktober 2019) The 2018 Trotanoy has a "barnstorming" bouquet with intense blackberry, black truffle, warm gravel and bay leaf aromas that instantly seduced the senses. Quintessential Trotanoy. The palate is medium-bodied and packed with black and red fruit laced with minerals. You can feel the energy and tension of this Trotanoy, the distinctive gravelly terroir shining through from start till the end. The finish is almost pixelated in definition, completing not just one of the best Pomerols of the vintage, but one of the vintage’s best wines. Drink 2025-2060. 99 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Trotanoy is a bold, powerful wine. In this vintage, some of the imposing structure that is such a Trotanoy signature has been replaced by super-expressive aromatics and striking detail. Dried herbs, iron, gravel and crushed rose petals all lend gorgeous savory nuance to a core of potent red berry fruit. Trotanoy is a Pomerol for those who can be patient. The 2018, though, is extraordinarily beautiful right out of the gate. Drink 2033-2068. 96-99 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (April 2019) The 2018 Trotanoy is insanely beautiful. Remarkably finessed, and, dare I say it understated, for a young Trotanoy, the 2018 speaks with a regal, aristocratic tone. The classic sense of verticality and depth that is such a Trotanoy signature is present, but I am also very much struck by the level of detail and overall precision in the wine. Dark stone fruit, licorice, gravel and lavender are some of the many notes that begin to develop in the glass, but ultimately, Trotanoy is a wine to treasure for its exquisite balance. 100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2021) Super nose of dried blueberry, black plum, walnut, myrrh and sandalwood. Lavender, violet, and chocolate, too. Ripe with wood now, but fresh. It’s full-bodied with firm, ultra fine tannins. Lots of dark spice is interlaced with the ripe fruit, giving this complex, perfumed character. Muscular, long and seamless with incredible depth and concentration. Reminds me of the great 2009, but this is better with more structure. Amazing wine. This is 100% merlot. Try from 2027. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2019) This is such a pinpointed and precise wine that shows a fantastic center palate of ripe and rich fruit with a combination of chocolate and cedar. Full-bodied, racy and focused. Lasts for minutes. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (April 2019) This is powerful and beautiful, pulsating with black fruits, liquorice and confident tannins - it doesn't just walk the line, it owns the line. While it perhaps doesn’t quite have the pure and absolute majesty of 2010, it is another crazy good year for Trotanoy offering an unusually seductive charm along with the power. There’s no question that the vintage was handled with aplomb; there’s not the slightest trace of the warmth of the summer with the feeling that the wine ate it right up just taking what it needed. Drinking Window 2028 - 2045 99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (Maart 2021) The 2018 Trotanoy is composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it slowly unfurls to reveal a jaw-dropping perfume of Black Forest cake, black raspberries, blackberry pie and kirsch, followed by hints of cast-iron pan, violets, woodsmoke, Chinese five spice and eucalyptus, with a waft of tree bark. The full-bodied palate explodes with exotic spice and mineral fireworks, grounded by a concentrated, black and red berry preserves core and framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing with epic length and depth. It will need a good five years in bottle to tame some of the youthfully overt, showy fruit and allow the mineral and earth nuances to emerge, then it should easily cellar another 35 years or more. Drink 2025-2060. 97-99+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – roberparker.com (April 2019) The medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2018 Trotanoy is made of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. The first sniff and WOW, it gives an incredible perfume of red roses, candied violets, molten licorice and spice cake over a core of plum preserves, raspberry compote, dried mulberries, iron ore and camphor plus a waft of woodsmoke. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is laden with exquisitely polished, beautifully poised red and black fruit layers with loads of mineral sparks, framed by super ripe, rounded tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing very long, culminating in a lingering ferrous note. 97-100 James Molesworth – winespectator.com (April 2019) Gorgeous, showing hefty structure throughout, carrying waves of tobacco- and charcoal-coated cassis, steeped plum and warm fig fruit. The dense finish is packed together now and seriously long. A very complete wine that helps set the bar in this vintage. 100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Maart 2021) 97-100 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (April 2019) Made from a 90/10 split of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the 2018 Château Trotanoy is a deep, powerful, almost brooding effort that oozes notes of blackcurrants, graphite, spice box, and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality. Massively concentrated, full-bodied, and structured as all hell, it's not for those looking for instant gratification, but it’s a legendary Pomerol in the making. A decade of cellaring might not be enough. 18/20 Bettane & Desseauve (April 2019) 99 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.com (April 2019) 17,5/20 Julia Harding – jancisrobinson.com (April 2019) 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Barrel sample. Black core with deep cherry rim. Sweet black fruit with a touch of vanilla. Darker and more savoury on the palate, with lovely freshness that is both acidity and tannins. Fine-boned even with all this fruit concentration and aromatic richness. Thick, compact chewy tannins that build in the mouth and need plenty of time in the bottle but the balance is there for a long life though there is a slight hardness on the finish at the moment. Drink 2028-2038. 95-97 Roger Voss – wineenthusiast.com (April 2019) 18-19/20 Revue des Vins de France – rvf.com (April 2019) 95-97 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (April 2019) 18-19/20 Le Point (April 2019) TrotanoyHet basisbeginsel dat Trotanoy leidt is superlatieve majesteit. In zijn zelfzekere en beredeneerde stijl, vertoont het de absolute perfectie die slechts enkele Grands Vins kunnen bereiken. Trotanoy is oud Frans voor « trop anoi » of « trop ennuie » (waarmee verwezen wordt naar de lastige bodembewerking). De wijngaard van zo'n 7,2 hectare is één van de best georiënteerde percelen van Pomerol en is sinds 1953 eigendom van Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix. De bodems kunnen we opsplitsen in enerzijds graves rustend op klei en anderzijds "argiles noires profondes". Beide rusten op een substraat van "crasse de fer" die de wijnen zowel kracht, diepte als complexiteit bezorgen. De wijngaard bleef gedeeltelijk gespaard van de grote vorst die Bordeaux teisterde in de nacht van 19 op 20 februari 1956 en benadert een gemiddelde leeftijd van 35-40 jaar. Hij wordt over het algemeen geplukt over drie halve dagen. De vinificatie gebeurt in ciment en de élevage in de helft nieuwe eik. Trotanoy is uiterst begerenswaardig en grote millésimes mogen vele decennia lang worden gekelderd. Er worden jaarlijks slechts zo’n 2.000 kistjes gemaakt. Trotanoy zet een indrukwekkende reeks prachtige millésimes verder. Trotanoy 2005 tot 2012 rivaliseren telkens met Pétrus. Geen enkele Pomerol, tenzij misschien Lafeur, kan deze status ambiëren. Vroeger, tussen 1960 en 1975, was dit al het geval en nu dus opnieuw... MoueixChristian Moueix is net zoals zijn legendarische vader, Jean-Pierre Moueix, vereenzelvigd met Pomerol. Na zijn studies aan UC Davis eind de jaren 1960, vervoegde hij de Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix waarvan hij de leiding nam. Zijn zoon Edouard staat nu aan zijn zijde. Hij bestuurt een indrukwekkend imperium dat ondermeer La Fleur Pétrus, Trotanoy en Hosanna omvat in Pomerol, Bélair Monange in Saint Emilion en Dominus in Napa Valley. In 2008 werd hij “Decanter Man of the Year”. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||