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 | 2019 Ch. Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan 1er GCC | € 330,00 (€ 399,30) |
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Volgens Jean-Philippe Delmas bezit 2019 Ch. Haut Brion de structuur van 2005 en de frisheid van 2010. De synthese is voor hem dan een modernere, rijkelijke 1990, zoals zijn vader Jean-Bernard Delmas indertijd had gemaakt. De legendarische wijnmaker overleed op 3 oktober 2019, alsof hij gewacht had tot de allerlaaste druiven geplukt waren. 48,7% Merlot, 8,1% Cabernet Franc en 43,2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bij benadering: 14.5%vol. IN DE PERS 98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Haut-Brion has an intense bouquet of blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar, mint and black olive aromas vying for attention. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins that belie the backbone, the arching structure of this Haut-Brion. Very persistent and very precise, showing a little more ambition and breeding than the La Mission this year, and a persistent, graphite-tinged, sapid finish. An opulent Haut-Brion and yet the pedigree is palpable. 14.6° alcohol. Drink 2030-2075. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Haut-Brion is completely different to La Mission Haut-Brion, the two compared side-by-side in the course of 24 hours. It was picked from 10 September until 3 October at 53hl/ha. Initially it is riper, more extrovert and luxurious than its sibling, yet returning after four hours (when chatting to Jean-Philippe Delmas) it has transmogrified into a very different wine with intense black fruit, boysenberry, iodine, forest floor and potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied and like the nose, initially comes across quite exuberant. Four hours later it is a much more nuanced wine that begins in understated fashion before a crescendo of black fruit tinged with blood orange and Chinese 5-spice. It fans out and gains volume wonderfully on the finish. This is a sensual and almost flamboyant Haut-Brion. Drink: 2029 - 2070. 98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2022) The 2019 Haut-Brion is seriously impressive. A dark, virile wine, the 2019 impresses with its vertical energy and statuesque elegance. It's a Haut-Brion that will only reveal itself over many years. Today, the density and resonance are super-impressive and also hugely promising. Classic savory and mineral notes start to emerge over time. I can't wait to see how this ages. Drink 2031-2059. 96-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2020) A potent, brooding wine, the 2019 Haut-Brion soars out of the glass with magnificent intensity. Its greatness and regal bearing are immediately apparent. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of dark fruit, scorched earth, tar, licorice and incense overtones that build effortlessly into the deep, eternal finish. The 2019 Haut-Brion is a wine of breeding, structure and power. It is also very clearly one of the standouts of the vintage. Don't miss it! 98 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2022) Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and plums mingled with notions of pencil shavings, burning embers and creamy new oak, the 2019 Haut-Brion is full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a textural attack that segues into an ample and enveloping core of fruit, concluding with a long, expansive finish. Broad-shouldered and muscular, its rich, powdery tannins are already seamlessly integrated; and though it's labeled at 15% alcohol, far higher than the great vintages of yesteryear, it avoids any sense of over-ripeness. Drink 2033-2070. Jean-Philippe Delmas is delighted with his 2019s, and justly so, as this rich, dramatic and unusually powerful vintage is a great success for Château Haut-Brion (and its neighbor, La Mission Haut-Brion). In the vineyards, a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon is being planted these days, but the evolution is subtle, as the 2019 blend remains very much in line with tradition at this address, at 49% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Cabernet Franc. That predominance of Merlot, combined with Haut-Brion's warm mesoclimate, have delivered an above-average alcohol level, labelled at 15%. On the white side of the ledger, we can expect a touch more Sauvignon Blanc in the future, as Delmas notes that Sémillon tends to lose its acidity rapidly in warm vintages. In both colors, the vineyard team are working to mitigate the effects of climate change and minimize the quantities of copper employed in treatments throughout the year. In the cuvier and chai, winemaking remains very classical, with fermentation in Haut-Brion's proprietary two-tier stainless steel tanks, designed to maximize the quantity of high-quality free-run juice; malolactic fermentation in tank; and maturation in new oak barrels, some 80% of which are produced in house by Séguin Moreau (complemented by purchased barrels from Demptos and Taransaud). White grapes are whole-cluster pressed with great attention to pH, the musts protected with dry ice, and bottled with some 25 parts per million free sulfites, without much in the way of dissolved carbon dioxide. 97-99+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Juni 2020) The 2019 Haut-Brion is a blend of 48.7% Merlot, 43.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.1% Cabernet Franc, harvested from the 10th of September to the 3rd of October. The estimated label alcohol degree is 14.5%. Displaying a deep garnet-purple color, it comes off incredibly shy and reticent to begin, needing considerable coaxing to reveal notes of dark chocolate-covered cherries, blackberry preserves, woodsmoke and sandalwood, before launching into a full-scale fireworks display of iron ore, cumin seed, redcurrant jelly, red roses, oolong tea and Sichuan pepper scents plus a waft of cardamom. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers the most exquisitely ripe, finely grained tannins with a lively backbone of freshness supporting the tightly wound, earth-laced black fruit layers, finishing very long and minerally. This is one of the most finely structured, tightly knit wines of the vintage. Given time, I wouldn't be at all surprised if it goes atomic and eventually takes top place for the vintage. 97 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Juni 2020) 100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Februari 2022) 99-100 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Juni 2020) The is very refined and elegant with a fine-tannined line running through the center of the palate. It’s very intense and precise. Full-bodied with great, tight fruit. This is subtle and complex, then it opens on the palate and shows incredible depth and intensity. Great length, going on and on for minutes. 96-99 Yohan Castaign – anthocyanes.com (Juni 2020) 98-100 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Juni 2020) IN DE WOORDEN VAN DE WIJNMAKER Superbe couleur rouge pourpre profonde. Le premier nez est intense et subtil à la fois. Le fruité est mûr et l’agitation révèle la complexité aromatique de ce vin. Le vin possède une attaque incroyable de suavité et de délicatesse. Puis, il déroule en remplissant la bouche, sans jamais « montrer les muscles ». Les tanins sont serrés sans dureté, subtils et envoûtants. La finale est longue, parfumée. Encore une fois, Haut-Brion étonne par sa capacité à sublimer la complémentarité du merlot, du cabernet franc et du cabernet sauvignon. Ce millésime 2019 de Haut-Brion s’inscrit au tableau des très belles réussites des millésimes produits avec un été chaud et sec. Haut BrionHaut Brion is één van de oorspronkelijke Premiers Grands Crus Classés de 1855 en één van 's werelds meest vermaarde Châteaux. Ondanks een bewogen geschiedenis tijdens de Franse Revolutie, de phylloxéra en de bezetting, is de standvastigheid van Haut Brion op alle vlak opmerkelijk. De Amerikaanse financier Clarence Dillon kocht Haut Brion in 1935 en zijn achterkleinzoon, Prince Robert de Luxemburg, verzorgt vandaag de algemene leiding. Ook de wijnmakers houden van traditie: Jean-Philippe Delmas volgt zijn vader en grootvader op in deze rol. Op zuiver kwalitatief vlak is Haut Brion de meest consistente van alle Premiers. 1945, 1964, 1989, 2009 en 2010 haalden perfecte parkerscores. In oppervlakte is Haut Brion de kleinste Premier Grand Cru Classé. Voor de rode wijn gebruiken ze 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot en 15% Cabernet Franc. De witte wijn bestaat uit Sauvignon Blanc en Sémillon. De tweede wijnen zijn Clarence Haut Brion in rood en Clarté de Haut Brion in wit. De wijngaard is omgeven door de Bordelese agglomeratie. |