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 | 2020 Alter Ego - Margaux | € 67,00 (€ 81,07) |
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Met een rendement van 31 hl/ha kwam de biodynamisch beheerde wijngaard van 66 hectare (Demeter gecertifieerd sinds 2018) zonder al te veel kleerscheuren door de vrij extreme vegetatieve cyclus met neerslag en droogte. De oogst verliep tussen 15 en 29 september met buitenstaanders als plukkers en de normale plukkers rond de sorteertafels. Thomas Duroux laat werkelijk niets meer aan het toeval over en beheerst zijn onderwerp volkomen. Perfecte 100-score voor de 2018 op fles voor Palmer maakte dit eerder al duidelijk, en de 2020 bevestigt zijn goede doen. Alter Ego 2020 staat voor fraîcheur, verfijnde tannine en zachtheid met IPT 75 en een pH van 3,8 (ipv 3,6 gewoonlijk). Sulfer nuttigen ze pas na de malo-lactische fermentatie. 47-50% Merlot, 46-47% Cabernet Sauvignon en 4-5% Petit Verdot. 13,7% vol. 25% nieuwe eik ter élevage. 8.500 kisten geproduceerd. Deze “fruitbomb” van zwarte bessen (Merlot) gaan geleidelijk over in schitterende minéralité. Het volmondig geheel is hoogst sappig en gul maar vertoont bovendien lengte en gedefinieerde fraîcheur. Dit is succulent. Geniet tomeloos vanaf 2026. IN DE PERS 93 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) The 2020 Alter Ego de Palmer has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of violets and rose petals mingled with notions of sweet dark berries and baking chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, it's vibrant and perfumed, with a bright core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, expansive finish. It's a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Drink 2026-2042. Thomas Duroux continues to produce singularly textural, powerful wines at this historic Margaux property, where he has introduced a new focus on parcel-by-parcel viticulture and vinification, as well as pioneering biodynamic methods, over the better part of the last two decades. Today, cover crops are the order of the day, much of the vineyard isn't hedged, and fruit trees are being planted in the rows as part of an agroforestry initiative. The core of Palmer derives from the plateau around the château, where soils consist of a millefeuille of sandy gravel, clay-rich gravel, sandy gravel again and then a meter of pure clay. It's old-vine Merlot, planted on these soils, that lends Palmer its richness and flesh. There are other parcels dotted around the appellation, of course, including a large block of coarser gravel surrounded by trees, not far from Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre. 92-94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Juni 2021) The 2020 Alter Ego is very pure on the nose, almost Burgundian in style with lush blueberry, boysenberry, crushed violets and a touch of vanilla. It is not a powerful bouquet but it seems to gain momentum with aeration, finding its own voice with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite grippy tannins for Alter Ego, possibly because of tasting slightly later (Thomas Duroux commented it is the most tannic that he has produced.) Crustacea-tinged black fruit lacquer the mouth, fresh and very delineated on the finish. Maybe it needs a little more sustain on the aftertaste, though that may evolve throughout its élevage. Drink 2027-2045. 93 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) Chocolate shavings and smoked coffee bean on the nose, it's a vintage where you can't get away from the tannins, but here they have sinew and juice, like the best translation of the tannins in the year. This has real purity of fruit (very low SO2 addition at Palmer), together with the gourmet touch that you want in Alter Ego. 45% of overall production. 3.73pH. Survived mildew better than in 2018 because of experience in dealing with the conditions. August 15 to 29 for the harvest. A yield of 31hl/ha. Drinking Window 2024 – 2038. 17+/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Very much in the Alter Ego mould – lively, fruit-driven with that vineyard-fresh feel but with a little more structure than previous years. Pure and appetising but will age. 13.7%. Drink 2026 – 2035. 92-94 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 93-95 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 94 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||