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 | 2020 Ch. Pichon Baron - Pauillac GCC | € 144,75 (€ 175,15) |
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IN DE PERS 97 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) The brilliant 2020 Pichon-Longueville Baron offers up inviting aromas of sweet berries and cassis mingled with pipe tobacco, loamy soil, pencil shavings and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, its velvety attack segues into a concentrated mid-palate that's framed by rich, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, vibrant finish. A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, it's a true classic that's a touch less demonstrative out of the gates than the sensual 2019, but which in the fullness of time will prove every bit as good. Drink 2030-2065. The numbers speak for themselves: Until 2000, Pichon-Longueville Baron produced some 350,000 bottles per year, but since 2001, that figure has fallen to 160,000. Managing director Christian Seely's first decision on arriving at the property was to reduce production, focusing the grand vin on Cabernet Sauvignon growing on the deep gravel terraces opposite Château Latour that have always been the heart of this historic estate and which were the source of the great duo of 1989 and 1990 before being joined by other holdings after a series of acquisitions in the early 1990s. The results also speak for themselves in the form of a series of excellent vintages, and things improved further with the construction of a new barrel cellar in 2006, permitting better temperature control and more precision during élevage. In style, Pichon Baron these days has more in common stylistically with the depth and structure of Latour than it does with the perfumed sensuality of its sibling, Pichon Lalande, and in quality, it's clearly one of contemporary Bordeaux's greatest wines. 97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (April 2023) As I found before, the 2020 Pichon Baron takes a while to open in the glass. Finally, it offers enticing blackberry and boysenberry fruit, peony and iris flower, hints of graphite and black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, again, displaying outstanding symmetry and focus, fresh as a daisy with a strong and mineral-driven finish. Christian Seely and his team have overseen a splendid Pichon Baron for the ages. Blue-blooded Pauillac. 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Pichon Baron underwent an early picking with relatively low yields. A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, it has a very tight nose at first that demands 15–20 minute coaxing in the glass. It eventually reveals enticing blackberries, blueberries and hints of balsamic and undergrowth, all very precise; crushed rock scents surface with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine-grained tannins and touches of hoisin toward a dense but structured finish of unerring symmetry. Tasted from test tube sample and regular 75cl bottle. Drink: 2028-2050. 96-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Pichon Baron is utterly breathtaking, and also one of the very best young vintages I have tasted here. An exotic mélange of red cherry, mint, rose petal and blood orange comes alive in the glass. More than anything, though, the Pichon-Baron possesses remarkable energy and vibrancy that builds to an intense, beautifully focused finish. This is hands down one of the most impressive wines of 2020. Superb. Drink: 2035-2055. 96 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) Intense, concentrated, rippling with power while still delivering finesse. A muscular Pichon Baron, layered with liquorice and chocolate shavings. Unmistakably Pauillac, and hugely Cabernet dominant, with savoury spice notes of grilled cumin and the same muscular, saline-backed tannins that you find in Les Griffons, just here with more definition and depth. 70% new oak for 18 months, 48% of overall production. Harvest September 14 to 30. Yields on the old vines here just above 30hl/ha. Drinking Window 2029 – 2048. 97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Maart 2023) 95-97+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Pichon-Longueville Baron is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot aging for an estimated 18 months in French oak barrels, 70% new. The production of the grand vin represents 48% of the harvest this year. Opaque purple-black in color, it comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notions of blackberry pie, preserved plums and crème de cassis, plus suggestions of Chinese five spice, chocolate mint, graphite and cedar chest with a touch of violets. The medium-bodied palate is built like a brick house, featuring firm, ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the taut, muscular black fruits, finishing long and spicy. Drink 2027 – 2052. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) This young Bordeaux is totally seamless with fine, velvet-like tannins that are integrated and refined. Underlying freshness and verve. It’s full-bodied, linear and long with a compact palate. 18/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot. Cask sample. Deep crimson hue. Powerful and reserved, the nose dark and restrained with just a nip of vanilla oak and spice. Dense, firm and persistent on the palate, a massive tannic frame heightened by acidity. Powerful and brooding. Will definitely need time. 13.7%. Drink 2030 – 2050. 96 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «Un vin parfaitement équilibré» Un bouquet sombre et profond, pur et opulent, aux fruits mûrs, qui donne l’impression de s’enfoncer dans un tas de coussins moelleux. Avec une texture dense et finement granuleuse en bouche, c’est un vin parfaitement équilibré malgré son immense puissance. À mettre en cave, si vous pouvez résister à l’appel de sa délicieuse finale gourmande. 94-96 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 98 Jeff Leve - thewinecellarinsider.com (December 2023) 96-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 97-99 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 97-98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 96 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) Pichon BaronDit sierlijk Château werd in 1851 gebouwd door Raoul de Pichon Longueville. Sinds de overname in 1988 door Axa-Millésimes werd het domein volledig gerenoveerd. De wijngaard van 73 hectare is zuidelijk georiënteerd en grenst voor het grootste deel aan Château Latour. Hij is beplant met 65% Cabernet Sauvignon en 35% Merlot. Gentleman Christian Seely, de man uit Porto, nam de leiding van Pichon Baron in navolging van Jean Michel Cazes. Monsieur Matignon is de wijnmaker. Met fairplay rivaliseert Pichon Baron met zijn overbuur Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. De laatste jaren is de kwaliteit van de wijnen Pichon Baron opmerkelijk; ze zijn de status van Second Grand Cru Classé waard. De 1990, 2000, 2009 en 2010 zijn magistrale wijnen. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||