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 | 2020 Ch. Montrose - Saint Estèphe GCC | € 168,00 (€ 203,28) |
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Van de grandioze attaque tot de fenomenale finale blijft Montrose bijzonder compleet met intense tannine, rijp fruit en fluwelen textuur. De milieu de bouche en finale is zo “amer et salin” dat de beklijvende lengte tot een hoger niveau wordt getild. Geen twijfel mogelijk: Montrose is één van de grootste wijnen van 2020. Dit proeven op Montrose was één van de belevenissen van het jaar. Het Château verstuurde geen stalen naar de thuisblijvende pers. Niet iedereen weet dus al hoe goed dit wel is. IN DE PERS 100 Wiliam Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) Surpassing the 2019 and rivaling the 2016 as this estate's finest vintage of the last few decades, the 2020 Montrose is a monument in the making. Wafting from the glass with aromas of violets, dark berries, licorice, loamy soil, black truffle and subtle spices, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a seamless, elegantly muscular profile, terrific purity and energy, beautifully powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. It checks in at 13.7% alcohol, the same as the superb 2009, but it is even deeper, more vibrant and more complex than the 2009. This will be worth a special effort to seek out and only confirms Montrose's status as one of the contemporary Médoc's leading estates and a de facto first growth. This large estate overlooking the Gironde in Saint-Estèphe produces some of Bordeaux's greatest and longest-lived wines, and the last 15 or so years have seen it benefit from sustained and intelligently directed investment. There's a brand new winery and cellars, of course, but there's a lot of work going on in the vineyards too. When Olivier and Martin Bouygues acquired Château Montrose from the Charmolüe family in 2006, the estate included fully 17 hectares of pre-clonal vines dating back to the early 20th century, and a massal selection program has since identified 80 viable individuals, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, for use when replanting (the same efforts are currently being lavished on Merlot, drawing on a block behind the château acquired from Phélan-Ségur). Now, cover crops are being trialed, and the soils are being cultivated more superficially to avoid disrupting the microbiome. Winemaking is rather classical, with maturation in some 60% new oak. 99 Neal Martin - vinous.com (February 2023) The 2020 Montrose was bottled in July 2022. The alcohol is 13.4%, a whole degree less than the previous year but with the same concentration (IPT is 80). It has a fabulous bouquet that delivers on all that promise from when I finally tasted the wine around a year earlier from barrel, a cornucopia of blackberry, bilberry, crushed stone, Indian ink and loamy/undergrowth scents. Very mercurial in the glass, it seems to shapeshift with every minute. The palate is medium-bodied with such a precise entry. This is far more detailed than either the 2019 or 2018, a symmetrical Montrose with unerring detail and mineralité, its silky texture belying the power underneath. This is unequivocally a brilliant wine and a benchmark in recent years. Contender for wine of the vintage. Drink 2025-2065. 99 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2023) This is up there with the best wines that I have tasted in the vintage. Beautifully balanced, classically refined but profound, delivering nuanced waves of cassis, blackberry puree, peony, pomegrante, mandarin peel, graphite, smoked sandalwood, incense. There is exceptional softness yet density to the tannins, such a confident structure overall and the build up on the tannins through the palate is so slow and careful that it is only at the end of play that you become aware of just how big a vintage it is. Clear ageing potential, easy to love, very easy to recommend. 12% press wine. Vincent Decup technical director. 40% of production in the 1st wine. 98 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) A serious wall of blueberry and blackberry compote, and a ton of savoury Cabernet sinew and freshness. This is a great Montrose, inky, broad-shouldered and structured. It needs time to aerate and open in the glass, then you see the precision, the heft, the chiselling of the fruits with a ton of graphite, cigar box and campfire smoke - huge persistency. This will need a long time and will reward patience. One of the few where a 1986, 2016 and 2010 comparison makes sense. A yield around 30hl/ha. 1% Petit Verdot, 3.86pH, IPT 80. 45% of the overall production. Drinking Window 2029 – 2050. 98+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown - thewineindependent.com (Maart 2023) A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2020 Montrose is deep garnet-purple in color. It slowly emerges from the glass with profound notions of creme de cassis, chocolate-covered cherries, licorice, and roses, followed by suggestions of cast-iron pan and fragrant soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers many tightly knit layers of mineral, black berries, and floral notes with a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and lively acidity, finishing on a lingering ferrous note. 18+/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Deep colour. Dark, intense and very pure but with an energy that makes it vibrant. Big tannic frame but tannins really finely honed. Long and persistent with plenty of drive on the finish. Long ageing potential. 13.4%. Drink 2030 – 2050. 100 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) Le bouquet possède l'élégance d'un danseur et la chaleur d’une étreinte maternelle. Il y a de la fraîcheur, de l’assurance, de la profondeur dans les arômes de quetsche, de noyau de cerise, de feuille de laurier et de pierres. La beauté dans un verre. Ce n’est pas un vin, c’est une statue. Sa forme, son message, la douce caresse du marbre vous transporte au musée Rodin. Ce vin est un baiser. 96-98 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 96-98 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 97-98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 98 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) MontroseHet fenomenale terroir van Montrose is gekend als “het Latour van Saint Estèphe”. De wijnen zijn grandioos en vertonen een typische “austérité”. Hun parcours is vlekkeloos: vooral 2003 was een fenomenale wijn, en 1990, 2009 en 2010 zijn hun perfecte parkerscores waard. Vandaag staan de gebroeders Bouygues aan het roer van deze Deuxième Grand Cru Classé. Zij zijn bekend van de gelijknamige bouwfirma, telefonie en mediahuis TF1. De nieuwe directeur, Hervé Berland (ex Mouton), zet de doelstellingen duidelijk uit: na een jarenlange renovatie verkeren wijngaard en Château in prima conditie. Kortom, we verwachten nog vele prachtwijnen van Montrose in de komende jaren! De wijngaard is één blok van 95 hectare op de oevers van de Gironde, aangelegd voor 1832. De naam “Mont-rose” verwijst naar de kleur van de boempjes en de heide die er vroeger stond. Het vormt met zijn Château, bijgebouwen en wijnbouwershuisjes bijna een klein dorp, waarvan de straatnamen verwijzen naar de namen van de voormalige eigenaars. Steek je neus op en je ademt onmiddellijk de zilte lucht van het maritiem klimaat die de wijngaard afkoelt in de zomer en vorst vermijdt in de winter. Bordeaux lijkt plots veraf… |