2020 Ch. La Gaffelière - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 69,50 (€ 84,10) |
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Al meerdere eeuwen in handen van de familie de Mallet Roquefort. Zij maakten in 2020 een absolute, klassieke schoonheid. Het resultaat van wijze vinificatie is een palet van betoverende kersjes-aroma’s op een intense maar frisse achtergrond van krokante tannine. De finale is hoogst majestueux en het geheel excellent. Fraîcheur bezorgt dit onwezenlijke elegantie. Groots en speels tegelijk en misschien wel een legendarische La Gaffelière in wording! La Gaffelière is dan ook één van de hoogst scorende wijnen van het wijnjaar 2020. Voor Neal Martin is dit de beste Saint Emilion samen met Figeac en Canon, voor Pavie en Angélus. Lisa Perrotti-Brown voor Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate scoort 96-98. Het zou ons niet verwonderen moest dit de deur uitvliegen. Wees snel. IN DE PERS 96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (April 2023) The 2020 La Gaffelière was a knockout out of barrel and so expectations were high broaching the wine in bottle. It delivers a sumptuous yet beautifully-defined bouquet with pure black cherry and red plum aromas, an underlying mineralité that keeps it on its toes. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, quite saline, perhaps still a little closed post-bottling but with plenty of tension running from start to finish. It's a Saint-Émilion that says bugger off and come back (a lot) later. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 La Gaffelière has an intriguing, complex nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, cigar box, undergrowth and mint, quite mercurial in the glass as it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a beautiful seam of acidity and perhaps the most satin-like texture I have encountered on a young La Gaffelière. It sashays to a harmonious and precise finish and lingers with wonderful mineralité. This is a magnificent prospect. Drink 2028 – 2060. 96-98 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Juni 2021) The 2020 La Gaffelière is simply magnificent. Soaring, regal aromatics are immediately alluring. Deep and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2020 is vibrant and packed to the core. In 2020, the tannins are especially fine and silky for a Saint-Émilion that often shows a bit more tension in its youth. Bright red cherry, blood orange, mocha, spice, dried herbs and leather envelop the palate effortlessly. I imagine the 2020 will provide readers with many decades of exceptional drinking. It is another superb effort from a property that continues to impress. Drink 2032-2050. 95 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Februari 2023) Limestone dominance from the first moment, with saffron and oyster shell along with juicy and well-controlled blueberry and raspberry fruit, and white pepper spice. Cabernet Franc dominant in the aromatics of savoury tomato leaf, peony and heather, this is sleek, silky and excelllent quality. First vintage without the Grand Cru Classé on the label, as it withdrew from the ranking, and a clear loss to the classification. 42hl/ha yield. 95 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) An run of successful vintages at La Gaffeliere, and this again proves why it is an estate to watch, striking an expert balance between power and finesse. Offers a ton of cassis, blackberry, black cherry and damson fruits, licorice root and crushed stone, just gorgeously juicy and stretches out across the palate. Austere tannins at this point, plenty of limestone character, a little tight on the finish but with a velvet texture and promises to age with grace. A yield of 42hl/ha. Drink 2028-2044. 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) A worthy follow up to the excellent 2019, the 2020 La Gaffelière bursts with aromas of plums, sweet berries, licorice, mint and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and concentrated, with lively acids and vibrant fruit flavors, it's built around powdery, fine-grained tannins. Cabernet Franc represents fully 40% of the blend. As I wrote last year, this estate, in many respects Saint-Émilion's sleeping giant, is awakening. Drink 2026-2050. 96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) Deep purple-black colored, the 2020 La Gaffeliere gallops out of the glass with exuberant scents of crushed black plums, boysenberries and fresh blackberries, plus hints of eucalyptus, dark chocolate, crushed rocks and iron ore, with a waft of lavender. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with compelling energy, delivering layers of black and red berries with fantastic tension and finely grained tannins, finishing very long and wonderfully minerally. Drink 2026-2050. 97 James Suckling – jamessuckling (December 2023) 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) Blackberry and black-olive aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with layers of fine tannins that fill the mouth. Expansive finish. The tannins are very fine, but abundant. Really impressive. 16,5+/20 Jancis Robinson – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) Full bottle 1,365 g. Cask sample taken 6 April. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are kept for 12 hours in a cold room at 7 °C before passing through the optical sorter. Vinification by parcel in stainless-steel temperature-controlled tanks, filled by gravity without SO2. Alcoholic fermentation with both pumping over and punching down. Malolactic conversion in tanks (75%) and barrels (25%). Dark, deep crimson. Very interesting and distinctive on the nose – fresher than most. Luscious and sweet on the palate with a little hint of oak. I have to say that I much prefer the nose to the palate at this juncture. But my score is for that impressive aroma and the nudging but (just) not-too-insistent tannins. Drink 2027-2042. 95,5 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «Un nez hypnotique» Un nez hypnotique, complexe, fragile, de petits fruits bleus et noirs – de myrtille –, de fleurs sauvages, d'épices, avec une belle minéralité rocheuse. La bouche quant à elle est veloutée, juteuse, dotée d’une belle structure, contraste en densité après un nez si délicat, tandis que les tannins sont déjà bien fondus. Une belle réussite. 94-96 lefrigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 92-94 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 96-97 Sylvie Tonnaire - Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 96-98 Revue des Vins de France (Mei 2021) 17,5/20 Tjark Witzgall - Weinwisser (Mei 2021) 96-97 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) 95-96 Yves Beck – beckustator (Mei 2021) La GaffelièreDeze wijngaard van 38ha (waarvan 22ha beplant) tooit de zuidelijke helling van Saint Emilion, onder Ausone en nabij Pavie. Hij is aangeplant met 70% Merlot en 30% Cabernet Franc.La Gaffelière is al drie eeuwen in handen van de familie de Malet Roquefort. |