Gericht zoeken
 | 2021 Ch. Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan 1er GCC | € 490,00 (€ 592,90) |
|
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
IN DE PERS 97 Yohan Castaign - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Haut-Brion confirms its fine showing en primeur, cementing its status as one of the wines of the vintage. Its complex bouquet of dark berries and cassis mingled with notions of cigar wrapper and burning embers unfurls in the glass. Full-bodied, deep and velvety, it’s concentrated and layered with a multidimensional core of fruit, sweet tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Reflecting the timeless elegance of Haut-Brions from cooler years, the 2021 will delight Bordeaux purists. Drink 2030-2065. 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Haut-Brion has a very pure bouquet, quite complex with a mixture of blueberry and black cherry fruit, iris flower and violet, hints of sea spray in the background. This is more engaging than the 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, good fruit concentration considering the vintage, commandable salinity and a harmonious, sapid finish that is classic in style. I suspect this may well close down for a period of time before re-opening. Excellent. Drink 2030-2065. 95-97 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Haut-Brion has a more extravagant, charming bouquet compared directly with the La Mission at the moment, offering copious blackberry, black truffle, undergrowth and menthol scents. The palate is very well balanced, harmonious and poised, with fine-grained tannins and an almost pixelated finish. This Haut-Brion seems to have reveled in the cooler growing season, and at 13.8% alcohol, there is almost a degree less than recent vintages. Jean-Philippe Delmas has fashioned a contender for wine of the vintage. Drink 2030-2065. What I find fascinating is the diversification on approaches between Jean-Philippe Delmas at Domaine Clarence Dillon’s two estates, and that of Les Carmes Haut-Brion. It’s worth reading and juxtaposing both to see how their tenets are at times almost diametrically opposed. “We had little frost, so yields are normal for both La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion at 47 to 48hL/ha. We are not organic, and so in this kind of vintage with a lot of rain, almost every day in June, using conventional treatments means you did not lose a large part of the crop. The key is to spray at the right moment before the arrival of mildew. We did some green harvesting for the Merlot and bled the Merlot vats by 10%. For the 50% of Cabernet Sauvignon, we chaptalised by around 0.5%. The season did not favour one particular variety, but we did have beautiful vats of Cabernet Franc, 12% of the blend in the Haut-Brion. We started picking the white on 3 September and finished 13 September, the reds picked from 13 September until 8 October, almost a month to obtain the optimal ripeness for each parcel. Each plot is different, so you have to manage each one of them like its own estate. You had to be patient. For the whites, for the first time in many years, we started exactly when we wanted without any pressures.” 94 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) The 2021 Haut-Brion is an excellent wine. Despite its mid-weight structure, the 2021 possesses notable dynamic energy and layers of complexity that build with time in the glass. Scorched earth, leather, tobacco, incese, licorice and dried herbs are some of the many nites that open with aeration. The 2021 is a quiet, understated Haut-Brion, but all its signatures are present. Today, the it is not quite as showy as it was en primeur, but it is a fine effort nonetheless. Drink 2031-2061. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Haut-Brion is all class, all finesse. Naturally the overt intensity of recent vintages is replaced by a more understated style in 2021. Silky tannins caress a core of dark cherry/plum fruit. Hints of lavender, new leather, cloves and menthol gradually open. The trademark Haut-Brion aromatics are going to need a number of years in bottle to develop. The 2021 is hardly a blockbuster, and yet in many ways it is so primary. Drink 2031-2061. There’s a ton to like in the 2021s from Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. The reds show off the gracious side of the vintage to great effect, with lifted aromatics, silky textures and primary fruit at this early stage. It’s a terrific vintage for the whites as well, all of which are the same 55% Sémillon/45% Sauvignon Blanc blend. “Back in the 1990s, harvest dates were chosen for us by deteriorating conditions at the end of harvest. Rain and the risk of rot essentially dictated when fruit had to come in,” Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me. “In the 2000s, with climate change, we were forced to the other extreme, that is to say picking earlier and earlier to avoid losing acidity and bringing in overripe grapes. Two thousand twenty-one was a very rare vintage in which we could harvest when we wanted to, with no pressure whatsoever.” 96-98 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) A candidate for the title of wine of the vintage, the 2021 Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass with aromas of rich red and black fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, licorice, black truffles, loamy soil and burning embers. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's elegant and multidimensional, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ultra-refined tannins. Combining the classical proportions of the vintages of two decades ago with the viticultural and winemaking of today, it's a timeless classic in the making, but it's difficult to find an obvious analogy with an older vintage. When pressed, Jean-Philippe Delmas suggests a superior version of the 2014 vintage, and to me, a more concentrated, serious version of the 2012 vintage also comes to mind. What is clear, however, is that this is one of the real high points of 2021. The blend is 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc, and it attained 13.8% alcohol—a percentage point or so lower than in 2020 or 2019. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) A very structured young Haut-Brion with blackberry, blackcurrant, black-olive and mushroom character. Medium to full-bodied with a driving balance of firm and ripe tannins and gorgeous fruit. 50.3% merlot, 38% cabernet sauvignon and 11.7% cabernet franc. 95 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) A classical balance, reflecting a vintage that is fairly strict in its aromatic expression, exceptionally successful on this spot. Soft cassis bud, rose petal and rose stem, subdued power that gently builds over the palate. Unquestionably a different architecture to Haut-Brion than over the past few years, and there is a sculpted feel to the cassis and bilberry fruits, still with concentration and weight through the palate, expertly constructed. Feels like a window to the past, and is delicious. Harvest September 13 to October 8, with no Petit Verdot used this year. 73% new oak. 93-95 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Haut-Brion is a blend of 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a lot of swirling and convincing to coax out notions of redcurrant jelly, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant pastilles, and graphite, plus suggestions of cloves, crushed rocks, and underbrush. Medium-bodied, the palate is a little like sucking on stones at this stage, chock full of minerals with emerging black and red fruits, framed by ripe, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy. A very different style and expression of Haut-Brion than in recent years, and yet this is equally evocative and simply gorgeous. Drink 2027-2052. 18/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 50.3% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.7% Cabernet Franc. 48 hl/ha. Cask sample. Bright crimson-purple. Fragrant berry-fruit notes as the wine opens. Smooth and refined on attack, the mid palate full and generous swathing powerful but integrated tannins. Impressive length and drive. Quite a powerhouse for such a complicated year. Huge potential. 13.8%. Drink 2032 – 2055. Haut BrionHaut Brion is één van de oorspronkelijke Premiers Grands Crus Classés de 1855 en één van 's werelds meest vermaarde Châteaux. Ondanks een bewogen geschiedenis tijdens de Franse Revolutie, de phylloxéra en de bezetting, is de standvastigheid van Haut Brion op alle vlak opmerkelijk. De Amerikaanse financier Clarence Dillon kocht Haut Brion in 1935 en zijn achterkleinzoon, Prince Robert de Luxemburg, verzorgt vandaag de algemene leiding. Ook de wijnmakers houden van traditie: Jean-Philippe Delmas volgt zijn vader en grootvader op in deze rol. Op zuiver kwalitatief vlak is Haut Brion de meest consistente van alle Premiers. 1945, 1964, 1989, 2009 en 2010 haalden perfecte parkerscores. In oppervlakte is Haut Brion de kleinste Premier Grand Cru Classé. Voor de rode wijn gebruiken ze 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot en 15% Cabernet Franc. De witte wijn bestaat uit Sauvignon Blanc en Sémillon. De tweede wijnen zijn Clarence Haut Brion in rood en Clarté de Haut Brion in wit. De wijngaard is omgeven door de Bordelese agglomeratie. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||