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 | 2022 Mev. Kirsten - Sadie Family Wines | € 107,67 (€ 130,28) |
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IN DE PERS 97 Anthony Mueller - robertparker.com (December 2023) Full, fresh and lively in the glass, the 2022 Old Vine Series Mev Kirsten bursts with incredible freshness wrapped in finesse and seductive notes of dusty citrus blossoms. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel offers considerable weight, a delightful nutty essence and a kiss of phenolic bitterness that gradually glides to a soft, leesy expression. The Mev Kirsten has a certain gravitas that weighs on the palate and hangs through the long, lingering, food-friendly finish. It’s mind-bogglingly delicious and has my head spinning for more. Only 4,500 bottles were produced from whole-bunch-pressed, old-vine Chenin Blanc that rested in old foudre. Drink 2023-2038. 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Augustus 2023) The 2022 Mev. Kirsten is pure Swartland Chenin Blanc, whole bunch pressed into old foudres. It has a lovely touch of citrus lemon, orange blossom and just a hint of blackcurrant leaf, very mineral-driven with a bit of walnut coming through with aeration. The palate is ripe and the most tropical and exotic of Sadie's wines, with guava and passion fruit notes, lightly spiced with a very persistent finish. Utterly seductive. Drink 2025-2048. No trip to the Cape would be complete without visiting Eben Sadie in Swartland. Before we tasted his 2022s, Sadie gave me a tour of his impressive new winery under construction. One thing that he or his sons, who are taking an increasing active role in the running, will be short of in the future is space. « The 2022 was a difficult vintage on paper, » Sadie explains. « All the rain fell to the South of Swartland, and so we had a hangover of drought. We didn’t have a good winter. Just after flowering, after fruit set, we reduced our crop by half, taking it down one bunch per shoot, and we thinned tje shoots right down to maintain a conservative canopy management. It’s one of the benefits of having a fixed team of 26 people. Also, we have had the lowest alcohol levels ever, bringing in the fruit below 13,5% potential alcohol. I’m fascinated by the 2022’s because they are way better than Thought they would be. It’s a radical and expensive vintage for us because we bottled very little. It’s been a revelation. It will be interesting to see if we can have the same levels of alcohol in a wetter year. We’ll do some trials to see if it is possible. » This is a brilliant range of 2022s under his Old Vine Series umbrella that includes one new cuvée, a pure Chenon Blanc from Swartland named Rotsbank that Sadie told me he had waited 14 years make. The 2022 Skurfberg might well constitute the vinous highlight of my trip, consistently ranking among his best wines. Maybe just the Kokerboom left me wanting more. The 2021 Columella, his blend of Rhône varieties now around two decades old is wonderful, less powerful than older vintages yet imbued with greater finesse and articulating its site with greater clarity. EBEN SADIE The 2022 Mev. Kirsten displays tropical fruit aromas that migrate more to fresh apricot and ripe peaches and pears, so generally, stonefruit aromatics. Firm tannins and a grippy acidity uphold these slightly riper and larger fruit aromas. The wine’s structure and the fruit’s volume are incredibly concentrated without being sweet in any way or form. It is truly an incredible vineyard. Decantation helps but can never replace the actual effect of time. VINIFICATION | We have been vinifying this vineyard since 2006 and during the last number of years we have invested much in improving it in terms of soil health and interplanting.An interesting fact is that the younger vines in this vineyard ripen about two weeks prior to the old vines, so we pick them first and they are still vinified separately. We do whole bunch pressing into old 500 litre casks for the young vines and into an old foudre for the old vines. In time the younger fraction will also be included in the final blend. Settling is for about 12 hours during the two pressings and the turbid juice is transferred the next morning.We allow for a slightly longer settling time for the Mev. Kirsten vineyard as the fermentation can be quite reduced if too many impurities enter into the fermentation stage. AGEING | The wine is left in casks and foudre on the fermentation lees for the entire first 12 months and we bottle from the lees.Two weeks prior to bottling we transfer the wine to a blending tank and add around 50 mg/litre of sulphur for protection during bottling.The wine normally settles to perfect clarity and can then be bottled unfiltered. NOTES | The vineyard is in very good standing currently and this year we will do the last interplanting of about 100 vines that we will root and re-graft next year. Over the past 15 years the wine has gained elegance carried by immense texture, density and power. Of all the singular sites we currently work with, this site is the only one that has the capacity to produce a wine of such volume and weight without any excessive notions.The texture and length of the wine just call everything to perfect discipline.We urge clients to give this wine the benefit of time in the bottle. Stellenbosch Jonkershoek Valley / Chenin Blanc or Steen / 12 months ageing foudre & amphora / Decomposed granite on an alluvial base. 25hl/ha / 13,6%vol / 2,4g/l / pH 3,37 / TA 5,8g/l / Total Sulphur 85mg/l Sadie Family WinesWinery of the Year - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2015 SadieThe Swartland Independent Producers veranderen Zuid Afrika als wijnland. Hun pionier is één van de beste wijnmakers ter wereld (en een ervaren surfer) genaamd Eben Sadie. Hij wordt vereerd als National Treasure en gamechanger. Hij ontgint wonderlijke terroirs, herstelt verwaarloosde bushvines en leidt de avant-garde in doordachte wijnbouw en vinificatie. Zijn Columella en Palladius zijn de eerste Afrikaanse Grands Vins. Daarnaast biedt zijn iconische “Ouwingerdreeks” kleine loten eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen uit specifieke climats. Appreciëer deze boeiende en betekenisvolle wijnen zolang de voorraad strekt. 2017 Winemakers' Winemaker Award, Institute of Masters of Wine Jane Masters MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine - Eben’s determined search to produce outstanding wines has put Swartland and South Africa on the map. I am delighted that the Master of Wine Winemakers have rewarded his dedication and talent – it’s truly well deserved. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||