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 | 2021 Palladius - Sadie Family Wines | € 108,80 (€ 131,65) |
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IN DE PERS 99 Anthony Mueller - robertparkercom (December 2023) Toeing the line to triple digits, the 2021 Palladius is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Sémillon, Colombard, Verdellho and Palomino. Instantly impressive in the glass, the wine is bold with waxy aromas that sway with seductive notes of lemon pastry cream, dusty melon and citrus blossoms. Medium-bodied and with 13.7% alcohol, the palate is succulent and bright with fantastic acid and displays a kiss of phenolic bitterness that beams with focus and precision. Subtle notes of beeswax and lees drive the finish with immense complexity and considerable weight. The aftertaste summersaults with complexity, offering fresh and bright citrus notes with notions of dusty flowers. It will remain food friendly for decades. It's devastatingly beautiful and cerebral. 12,400 bottles were produced after the grapes were whole-bunch pressed and rested in concrete and amphora. Drink 2025-2045. 96 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Augustus 2023) The 2021 Palladius is aged in concrete eggs and amphora for 12 months plus 12 months in old foudre. Sadie said he is most proud of this vintage over the last decade. It has a well-defined lanolin, yellow fruit, melted candle wax and fern nose. The palate is supremely well-balanced, with a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the concentration. An underlying touch of bitter lemon and ginger surfaces towards the harmonious and persistent finish. Superb energy here. Drink 2025-2050. No trip to the Cape would be complete without visiting Eben Sadie in Swartland. Before we tasted his 2022s, Sadie gave me a tour of his impressive new winery under construction. One thing that he or his sons, who are taking an increasing active role in the running, will be short of in the future is space. « The 2022 was a difficult vintage on paper, » Sadie explains. « All the rain fell to the South of Swartland, and so we had a hangover of drought. We didn’t have a good winter. Just after flowering, after fruit set, we reduced our crop by half, taking it down one bunch per shoot, and we thinned tje shoots right down to maintain a conservative canopy management. It’s one of the benefits of having a fixed team of 26 people. Also, we have had the lowest alcohol levels ever, bringing in the fruit below 13,5% potential alcohol. I’m fascinated by the 2022’s because they are way better than Thought they would be. It’s a radical and expensive vintage for us because we bottled very little. It’s been a revelation. It will be interesting to see if we can have the same levels of alcohol in a wetter year. We’ll do some trials to see if it is possible. » This is a brilliant range of 2022s under his Old Vine Series umbrella that includes one new cuvée, a pure Chenin Blanc from Swartland named Rotsbank that Sadie told me he had waited 14 years make. The 2022 Skurfberg might well constitute the vinous highlight of my trip, consistently ranking among his best wines. Maybe just the Kokerboom left me wanting more. The 2021 Columella, his blend of Rhône varieties now around two decades old is wonderful, less powerful than older vintages yet imbued with greater finesse and articulating its site with greater clarity. EBEN SADIE The 2021 Palladius displays early picked stone fruit aromas with some citrus aromas in the background. Still, the minerality and salty qualities on the palate suggest that the wine will be slender for a while but will fill up over time in the bottle. Complex earthy aromas with lanolin layers make up the deeper aspects of aromatics. The palate of the wine is substantial, and the tannins and the acidity seem coiled up super tight. The current taste of the wine shows every intention of this vintage to be a longstanding wine with a big-player mentality. Tasting through the lineup this year, this wine is just a standout. As always, it is suggested to age this wine for a minimum of 4- 6 years. VINIFICATION | The grapes are picked across a great many vineyards and taken into our cold room on arrival at the cellar.The next day the grapes are sorted and the whole bunches go into the press.The pressing lasts 2 - 3 hours and in that period a margin of settling of the juice takes place in the collecting tank.The turbid juice is then transferred to concrete eggs of 725 litres and 400 – 1200 litre clay amphoras for the next stage of natural fermentation. The fermentation temperatures in the clay amphorae and the concrete eggs are very constant and we only control the ambient temperature at around 18 degrees throughout the season. Each wine basically ferments in its own time – in some cases it may take up to 18 months - and every vineyard is fermented in the same vessel every year. AGEING | The Palladius matures in these vessels for 12 months and is then racked off into big old foudres for an additional 12 months ageing prior to bottling.After two years the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. NOTES | Over the past 5 years Palladius has been the wine that grew the most in quality and refinement and much of this has to do with the addition of more vineyards and the improvement of their viticulture. Currently of all our wines, the Palladius, with 17 vineyards, obviously represents the biggest canvas of the Swartland. Paardeberg (14ha), Piketberg (1 vineyard), St Helena Bay (2 vineyards) 29hl/ha / 13,75%vol / 2,1g/l / pH 3,43 / TA 5,7g/l / Total Sulphur 85mg/l Sadie Family WinesWinery of the Year - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2015 SadieThe Swartland Independent Producers veranderen Zuid Afrika als wijnland. Hun pionier is één van de beste wijnmakers ter wereld (en een ervaren surfer) genaamd Eben Sadie. Hij wordt vereerd als National Treasure en gamechanger. Hij ontgint wonderlijke terroirs, herstelt verwaarloosde bushvines en leidt de avant-garde in doordachte wijnbouw en vinificatie. Zijn Columella en Palladius zijn de eerste Afrikaanse Grands Vins. Daarnaast biedt zijn iconische “Ouwingerdreeks” kleine loten eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen uit specifieke climats. Appreciëer deze boeiende en betekenisvolle wijnen zolang de voorraad strekt. 2017 Winemakers' Winemaker Award, Institute of Masters of Wine Jane Masters MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine - Eben’s determined search to produce outstanding wines has put Swartland and South Africa on the map. I am delighted that the Master of Wine Winemakers have rewarded his dedication and talent – it’s truly well deserved. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||