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 | 2022 Treinspoor - Sadie Family Wines | € 64,44 (€ 77,97) |
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IN DE PERS 97 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Augustus 2023) The 2022 Treinspoor is pure Swartland Tinta Barocca that includes 50% whole clusters, 20 to 28 days on the skins and matured in old foudres. The bouquet is a little plusher on the nose than the Pofadder, with crushed rose petals and fynbos - garrigue. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, perfectly balanced, and a touch of graphite. It's quite saline with a pinch of white pepper. All this is delivered at just 13,1% alcohol. Sadie reckons this grape variety is a long-term player, and I've no reason to disagree. Sublime. Drink 2025-2050. No trip to the Cape would be complete without visiting Eben Sadie in Swartland. Before we tasted his 2022s, Sadie gave me a tour of his impressive new winery under construction. One thing that he or his sons, who are taking an increasing active role in the running, will be short of in the future is space. « The 2022 was a difficult vintage on paper, » Sadie explains. « All the rain fell to the South of Swartland, and so we had a hangover of drought. We didn’t have a good winter. Just after flowering, after fruit set, we reduced our crop by half, taking it down one bunch per shoot, and we thinned tje shoots right down to maintain a conservative canopy management. It’s one of the benefits of having a fixed team of 26 people. Also, we have had the lowest alcohol levels ever, bringing in the fruit below 13,5% potential alcohol. I’m fascinated by the 2022’s because they are way better than Thought they would be. It’s a radical and expensive vintage for us because we bottled very little. It’s been a revelation. It will be interesting to see if we can have the same levels of alcohol in a wetter year. We’ll do some trials to see if it is possible. » This is a brilliant range of 2022s under his Old Vine Series umbrella that includes one new cuvée, a pure Chenin Blanc from Swartland named Rotsbank that Sadie told me he had waited 14 years make. The 2022 Skurfberg might well constitute the vinous highlight of my trip, consistently ranking among his best wines. Maybe just the Kokerboom left me wanting more. The 2021 Columella, his blend of Rhône varieties now around two decades old is wonderful, less powerful than older vintages yet imbued with greater finesse and articulating its site with greater clarity. 96 Anthony Mueller - robertparker.com (December 2023) Stately and refined on the nose, the 2022 Old Vine Series Treinspoor expresses dark red fruit with ripe black cherry and spiced plum essences. Medium-bodied and with 13% alcohol, the palate displays elegance and finesse, offering a balanced frame of fine-grained tannins with seductive mineral tension. For those who have never tried this bottling, many elements will be familiar and pleasurable, offering fantastic action with layers of complexity before ending with a long lingering finish that shines with bold tannins. 7,500 bottles were produced from 50% whole-cluster grapes. Drink 2024-2042. EBEN SADIE The 2022 Treinspoor is textbook in its display of darker blueberry, spicey and herbal aromas with graphite aromas. The tannins are present in volumes, but as is the case throughout the 2022 wines, they are incredibly smooth and rounded. The purity in this wine and the focused fruit purity makes for a very serious wine with many layers and textures. Please afford this wine time, for it comes with ownership. VINIFICATION | This vineyard is located next to the old railway line (treinspoor) and was named accordingly.The very fragile, thin skin of Tinta Barocca is prone to sunburn, but in this case the old bush vines have formed a great framework to keep the bunches sheltered from the intense Swartland sun.Tinta Barocca has the textural nature of the Nebbiolo grape and the aromatic orientation of Syrah - a great combination. It produces wines of great character and expression that are built to last.The grapes are fermented with 50% whole clusters and 50% being destemmed and the fermentation is left for about 25 – 30 days prior to being pressed in an old basket press. Only bucket overs are done in the fermentation for it is very easy to over-extract Tinta Barocca since the grapes hold an abundance of tannins. AGEING | After pressing the wine is transferred into 28-year-old conical wooden casks that do not impart any wooden flavours.The age and the saturation of the wooden staves also make for a very slow reaction between the wine and oxygen.After 11 months on the lees the wine is racked to another concrete tank for an additional month to settle clean and 2 weeks prior to bottling we add 65mg/Litre of sulphur and bottle the wine from the fine lees. NOTES | Tinta Barocca is a grape that carries the soil into the bottle, it is a great communicator of terroir.The grape has had a longstanding relationship with the Swartland and the spicy herbal aromatics and dark purple plum like fruit carries over into a very tight and compressed core of the wine.As mentioned before the tannins of Tinta Barocca have very much the same behaviour as those of Nebbiolo and proper ageing is required. Historically we have referenced that Tinta Barocca might be the most significant red variety of the historical plantings to transport the terroir and typicity of a site to bottle. Swartland - Malmesbury / Tinta Barrocca or Tinta Das Baroccas / 12 months old foudre / Alluvial Plain, Sandstone, Granite and Quartz Formations 30hl/ha / 13,25%vol / 2g/l / pH 3,65 / TA 5,9g/l / Total Sulphur 81mg/l Sadie Family WinesWinery of the Year - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2015 SadieThe Swartland Independent Producers veranderen Zuid Afrika als wijnland. Hun pionier is één van de beste wijnmakers ter wereld (en een ervaren surfer) genaamd Eben Sadie. Hij wordt vereerd als National Treasure en gamechanger. Hij ontgint wonderlijke terroirs, herstelt verwaarloosde bushvines en leidt de avant-garde in doordachte wijnbouw en vinificatie. Zijn Columella en Palladius zijn de eerste Afrikaanse Grands Vins. Daarnaast biedt zijn iconische “Ouwingerdreeks” kleine loten eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen uit specifieke climats. Appreciëer deze boeiende en betekenisvolle wijnen zolang de voorraad strekt. 2017 Winemakers' Winemaker Award, Institute of Masters of Wine Jane Masters MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine - Eben’s determined search to produce outstanding wines has put Swartland and South Africa on the map. I am delighted that the Master of Wine Winemakers have rewarded his dedication and talent – it’s truly well deserved. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||