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 | 2022 Pofadder - Sadie Family Wines | € 54,38 (€ 65,80) |
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IN DE PERS 95 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Augustus 2023) The 2022 Pofadder is pure Cinsault from Swartland, 50% whole clusters with 20 to 28 days on the skins, raised in 40-year-old foudres. It has a pure bouquet with maraschino, blueberry, pressed flowers and a light musk-like scent. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with ultra fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity, gentle grip and an extraordinarily long and sensual finish. Cinsault doesn't get better than this, and I could understand why Sadie remarked, "The fruit was so great I didn't want to put it into the vat." 13,4% alcohol. Drink 2025-2048. No trip to the Cape would be complete without visiting Eben Sadie in Swartland. Before we tasted his 2022s, Sadie gave me a tour of his impressive new winery under construction. One thing that he or his sons, who are taking an increasing active role in the running, will be short of in the future is space. « The 2022 was a difficult vintage on paper, » Sadie explains. « All the rain fell to the South of Swartland, and so we had a hangover of drought. We didn’t have a good winter. Just after flowering, after fruit set, we reduced our crop by half, taking it down one bunch per shoot, and we thinned tje shoots right down to maintain a conservative canopy management. It’s one of the benefits of having a fixed team of 26 people. Also, we have had the lowest alcohol levels ever, bringing in the fruit below 13,5% potential alcohol. I’m fascinated by the 2022’s because they are way better than Thought they would be. It’s a radical and expensive vintage for us because we bottled very little. It’s been a revelation. It will be interesting to see if we can have the same levels of alcohol in a wetter year. We’ll do some trials to see if it is possible. » This is a brilliant range of 2022s under his Old Vine Series umbrella that includes one new cuvée, a pure Chenin Blanc from Swartland named Rotsbank that Sadie told me he had waited 14 years make. The 2022 Skurfberg might well constitute the vinous highlight of my trip, consistently ranking among his best wines. Maybe just the Kokerboom left me wanting more. The 2021 Columella, his blend of Rhône varieties now around two decades old is wonderful, less powerful than older vintages yet imbued with greater finesse and articulating its site with greater clarity. 94+ Anthony Mueller - robertparker.com (December 2023) Red-fruited and softly spicy, the 2022 Old Vine Series Pofadder offers ample floral expressions with crunchy red fruit aromas that display a pure and fresh expression of Cinsault. Medium to full-bodied and with 14% alcohol, the palate is fresh and mineral driven before a firm tannic grip clamps down, telling me it's much too young right now. With a fine acid backbone, this beauty will continue to shine with elegance and finesse for more than a decade. It's immensely pleasurable and has me craving duck breast. Only 5,000 bottles were produced from 50% whole-cluster Cinsault. Speaking with Eben Sadie, he believes it’s their best Cinsault since 2012. Drink 2025-2036. EBEN SADIE The 2022 Pofadder displays delicate red fruit of great purity and linear qualities; there are soft oriental spices and earthy aromas on the outer edges suggesting greater complexity in the future. The same fruit and deeper earthy aspects carry through to the mouthfeel and taste, which is a more serious style of Cinsaut. As with many 2022 wines, the tannins are also remarkably smooth with softer acidity. VINIFICATION | In the late 19th century, and much of the 20th, Cinsault was the workhorse red variety that played an undeclared role in some great red blends. It was an obvious candidate for inclusion in any historical edition of wine, although it poses many challenges in the vineyard as well as in the cellar, including the difficulty of keeping yields down and attaining perfect ripeness, plus its very oxidative character. Simply put: one has to tread very carefully with all aspects of the cultivation and the production of Cinsaut but it does come with great reward if all is in check. We basically fill the concrete tanks whole cluster to about 50% and then destem 50% to get some juice in the tank to have the initiation of fermentation.The fermentation is for about 30 days on the skins and then we press the grapes in an old basket press. AGEING | After pressing the wine is transferred into some 28 year old conical wooden casks that do not impart any wooden flavours and the age and the saturation of the wooden staves also make for a very slow reaction of the resultant wine with oxygen.The wine is left on the lees for 11 months and then racked to another concrete tank for an additional month to settle clean.Two weeks prior to bottling we add 60mg/Litre of sulphur and bottle the wine from the fine lees. NOTES | One of the most fascinating aspects of Cinsaut is the depth of texture and the load of tannin that this big berry grape holds, for as a norm one will expect this level of depth and texture and tannin on the smaller, berries varietals – but Cinsaut is a complete enigma in this regard.The wine may hold massive volumes of bright-red fruit and lifted aromatics; and upon smelling the wine the expectation is that it would be very soft on the pallet – but then firm tannins are met. Swartland Riebeeksrivier / Cinsault or Hermityk / 12 months ageing in old foudre / Iron rich slate formations and decompositions thereof. 28hl/ha / 13,5%vol / 1,5g/l / pH 3,29 / TA 5,8g/l / Total Sulphur 61mg/l Sadie Family WinesWinery of the Year - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2015 SadieThe Swartland Independent Producers veranderen Zuid Afrika als wijnland. Hun pionier is één van de beste wijnmakers ter wereld (en een ervaren surfer) genaamd Eben Sadie. Hij wordt vereerd als National Treasure en gamechanger. Hij ontgint wonderlijke terroirs, herstelt verwaarloosde bushvines en leidt de avant-garde in doordachte wijnbouw en vinificatie. Zijn Columella en Palladius zijn de eerste Afrikaanse Grands Vins. Daarnaast biedt zijn iconische “Ouwingerdreeks” kleine loten eigenzinnige bewaarwijnen uit specifieke climats. Appreciëer deze boeiende en betekenisvolle wijnen zolang de voorraad strekt. 2017 Winemakers' Winemaker Award, Institute of Masters of Wine Jane Masters MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine - Eben’s determined search to produce outstanding wines has put Swartland and South Africa on the map. I am delighted that the Master of Wine Winemakers have rewarded his dedication and talent – it’s truly well deserved. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||