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 | 2022 Ch. Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan 1er GCC | € 602,00 (€ 728,42) |
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Er is continuïteit en innovatie op Haut Brion. Er is continuïteit in familietradities en kwaliteit: Jean-Philippe Delmas leidt de wijnproductie zoals zijn vader en grootvader dat voor hem deden en Clarence Dillons achterkleinzoon Robert de Luxembourg heeft de algemene leiding. Haut Brion is een van de meest consistente grote wijnen van Bordeaux inzake kwaliteit. Sinds 1958 wordt de wijn gebotteld in de unieke en iconische Haut Brion-fles. Gelegen in de buitenwijken van de stad Bordeaux, zijn de 48 hectare rode druivensoorten beplant met 45% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc en 1% Petit Verdot. Ze bezitten ook La Mission Haut Brion. Innovatie blijft niet achter met grote investeringen in gebouwen, oenotoerisme en internationale expansie, alsook de lancering van Quintus in St Emilion. 2022 is het 99e opeenvolgende oogstjaar gemaakt door een Delmas (Jean-Philippe's grootvader begon in 2023 en zijn vader nam het over in 1961). Dit was ook de 2e vroegste oogst ooit (na 2003). De sécateurs knipten de eerste rode druiven op 29 augustus. 54% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. 32 hl/ha (48 vorig jaar!). 63% nieuwe eik. Alcohol 14,45%. Voor Jean-Philippe heeft deze wijn de frisheid van de 1988, de weelderigheid van de 1989 en de rijpe tannines van de 1990. IN DE PERS 95-97 Yohan Castaign – The Wine Advocate Issue 266 - robertparker.com (April 2023) The 2022 Haut-Brion shows considerable promise, revealing aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with notions of pencil lead, licorice, tobacco leaf, spices and incense. Full-bodied, broad and seamless, it's rich and muscular, with a deep, layered core of fruit framed by an ample endowment of tannin. This blend of 53.6% Merlot, 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, the result is a lip-smacking exemplification of controlled power. Analytically, the 2022 possesses a similar level of tannins to the 2010, and a similar pH to the 2009, yet it is more suave and polished than the 2010 at the same stage, and seemingly more dynamic than the 2009. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2023) The 2022 Haut-Brion, matured in 70% new oak, represents the 99th vintage under three generations of the Delmas family (see my recently published book for a remarkable photo of the first). It has slightly darker fruit than the La Mission at the moment. Incense and potpourri infuse the black plum and bilberry. There's a touch of brine in the background. It manifests more and more complexity as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and is blessed with unerring symmetry. It has a bewitching granular texture, complex and more focused than recent vintages, and comes across as almost pixelated on the finish. Quintessential Haut-Brion. Magnificent, but not necessarily the best wine that Delmas oversaw in this vintage. Drink 2030-2065. 97-99 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2023) The 2022 Haut-Brion comes across as a bit restrained, given the natural opulence of the year and the other wines in the Clarence Dillon portfolio. Deep and wonderfully layered, the 2022 possesses remarkable depth but also a bit less of the explosive energy that is such a Haut-Brion signature. I suspect that will come in time, as the 2022 starts to show quite a bit better with a little aeration. Violet, gravel, incense, leather, tobacco and scorched earth linger. Superb. Drink 2025-2062. 97-99+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2023) Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2022 Haut-Brion is a blend of 53.6% Merlot, 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc aging in 62.9% new oak. The nose is typically closed and broody, requiring a lot of shaking to wake up enticing notes of iron ore, red roses, lavender, mint tea, and forest floor, leading to a tantalizing core of plum preserves and blueberry pie. The medium to full-bodied palate is very tightly knit with vibrant black and blue fruit layers and red berry sparks, framed by very fine-grained tannins and a refreshing backbone, finishing long and minerally. A classic, breath-taking expression of Haut-Brion, I expect this to remain shy and restrained for the first 10 years so in bottle, and then watch it soar. 18/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2023) 53.6% Merlot, 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample. Hallmark Haut-Brion opulence of texture. Powerful tannic frame behind. Lovely depth of fruit. Dark- and red-fruit notes with a touch of liquorice as it opens. Complex, powerful and persistent with enough freshness to provide balance. Drink 2034– 2055. 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (April 2023) Currants and cedar with sandalwood and peaches. Fascinating aromas. Violets. Full-bodied with a crunchy and electric palate of primary fruit, with hints of tangerines and citrus. Great finish with structure and polish. 53.6% merlot, 35.4% cabernet sauvignon and 11% cabernet franc. Interesting to have such high merlot in the blend. 96 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Mei 2023) Stately, inky colour, this is impressively vivid and energetic despite the intensity of the construction. Fresh fig character, black chocoate, cinnammon, turmeric, creamy bilberry and blackberry fruits, with clove and sandalwood spice, and a slow build of texture and contrast from the slate tannins as they draw out the flavours. Harvest August 29-19 September. 3.9ph. Less Cabernet Sauvignon than usual due to tiny yields. Drink 2030-2050. 96-98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2023) Slightly better than its sibling La Mission Haut-Brion, the 2022 Château Haut-Brion has a full-bodied, concentrated, structured style that's going to demand bottle age. Cassis, graphite, scorched earth, and tobacco are just some of its nuances aromatically, and it shows the ripe, powerful style of the vintage. There are lots of tannins here, especially on the finish, and it's going to need 7-8 years in the cellar. 96 Georgina Hindle – decanter.com (Mei 2023) Milk chocolate and blackcurrants on the nose, fragrant ripe black cherries and some floral notes. Sleek, supple, suave, really confident and shiny. This keeps the tension more than La Mission at this point with a vein of freshness and intensity. It’s not out to charm but it’s out to impress. Excellent construction, clean depth and power, tense, strict and streamlined, a touch of creaminess and saltiness. You get waves of flavour intensity with ripe, concentrated fruit, soft acidity and a clean stone freshness. Tannins fill the mouth with edges of both minerality and toasted spices. Calm and controlled, impressive with focus. 3.8pH. A yield of 35hl/ha. 96-98 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (Mei 2023) - «Un frémissement vivifiant» Un bouquet subtil, presque timide pour le moment, avec au nez des fruits très purs, des roses et des notes plus profondes légèrement épicées. Dense et voluptueux en bouche, un vin ample et sculpté, avec un frémissement vivifiant, comme du poivre du Sichuan, et une caresse crayeuse dynamisante. 98-100 Jeff Leve – thewinecellarinsider.com (Mei 2023) Picture walking into a flower show with a basket of fresh berries and a lit Cuban cigar, and while that is not quite PC, it is the aromatic profile here. On the palate, the wine is fresh, bright, vibrant, lifted and floral. The wine is elevated, refined, soft, and silky with a refreshing, silky edge to the fruits in the finish. The wine is pure elegance There is nothing between you and the fruits. There is intensity, length, and a striking sense of purity. The wine lingers seamlessly for 60 seconds, or longer. The wine blends 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. 14.45% ABV, 3.83 pH. Harvesting took place August 29 - September 15. Yields were 35 hectoliters per hectare, with 50% of the harvest placed into the Grand Vin. This is not only in competition for wine of the vintage, it is one of the best vintages of Haut Brion ever produced. If you are an Haut-Brion fan with the disposable income, you cannot own enough of this future legend. Drink 2030-2062. 98-99 Alexandre Ma – alexandrema.com (Mei 2023) 98 Jean Marc Quarin – Quarin.fr (Mei 2023) 98-99 Terre des Vins (Mei 2023) IN DE WOORDEN VAN HAUT BRION La couleur est profonde et très belle. Le nez est envoûtant. L’agitation confirme cette impression de fruité parfait. L’été chaud ne paraît pas : la vigne a répondu aux excès du climat de 2022 et les fruits sont mûrs, précisément mûrs. L’agitation du verre donne l’envie, bien sûr, d’aller plus loin. L’attaque est large, serrée, envoûtante, précise. Puis le vin déroule sa trame, rebondi, s’allonge généreusement. Tramé et généreux à la fois. C’est enchanteur et tout en devenir : passionnant! Haut BrionHaut Brion is één van de oorspronkelijke Premiers Grands Crus Classés de 1855 en één van 's werelds meest vermaarde Châteaux. Ondanks een bewogen geschiedenis tijdens de Franse Revolutie, de phylloxéra en de bezetting, is de standvastigheid van Haut Brion op alle vlak opmerkelijk. De Amerikaanse financier Clarence Dillon kocht Haut Brion in 1935 en zijn achterkleinzoon, Prince Robert de Luxemburg, verzorgt vandaag de algemene leiding. Ook de wijnmakers houden van traditie: Jean-Philippe Delmas volgt zijn vader en grootvader op in deze rol. Op zuiver kwalitatief vlak is Haut Brion de meest consistente van alle Premiers. 1945, 1964, 1989, 2009 en 2010 haalden perfecte parkerscores. In oppervlakte is Haut Brion de kleinste Premier Grand Cru Classé. Voor de rode wijn gebruiken ze 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot en 15% Cabernet Franc. De witte wijn bestaat uit Sauvignon Blanc en Sémillon. De tweede wijnen zijn Clarence Haut Brion in rood en Clarté de Haut Brion in wit. De wijngaard is omgeven door de Bordelese agglomeratie. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||