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 | 2024 Ch. Les Carmes Haut Brion - Pessac Léognan | € 70,40 (€ 85,18) |
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IN DE PERS 93-96 Yohan Castaign – robertparker.com (April 2025) One of the most impressive wines of the vintage, the 2024 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a striking effort that sets itself apart with seamless integration, even at this early stage, and a strong sense of identity. Poised, precise and unmistakably singular, it opens in the glass with a perfumed bouquet of iris, violet, dark berries, cherries, vine smoke and gentian. Medium to full-bodied, supple and notably fleshy for the vintage, it’s layered and textural, with a sappy, enveloping core of pure, vibrant fruit framed by finely grained, velvety tannins, culminating in a long, precise and gently stemmy finish. This is one of the rare wines of the vintage where sappiness is expressed with such finesse and charm, thanks in no small part to meticulous vineyard work and severe sorting in the winery. The blend is composed of 48% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot, and it's maturing in a combination of 70% new oak, 19% foudres and 11% amphorae. 94-96 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2025) The 2024 Les Carmes Haut-Brion contains more Cabernet Franc at 48% of the blend. Picked between September 17 and 27 using 52% whole bunch, this is aged in 70% new barrels, 19% new foudres and 11% amphora. This has impressive fruit concentration on the nose with redcurrant and blackberry fruit, hints of cassis ans a dab of dark chocolate. Fine delineation. After time, there is something that nods to the Northern Rhône without losing typicité. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh with fine tannins, a subtle pepperiness imparted by the whole bunches and a tingle of pain d’épices towards the finish. Very harmonious and very delicious, this should provide 20 to 25 years of drinking pleasure. 13,2% abv. Drink 2031-2060. Guillaume Pouthier has rejuvenated this urban estate located just a five-minute drive from the First Growth bearing the same surname. As usual, he went into detail about the growing season and voiced strong opinions about what factors underlie quality. “Hydric deficit is vital,” he explains. “We need to manage the supply of water to the vine by optimising cover crops and leaves until harvest. Selection is also important, because the flowering was spun out over three weeks while véraison was over three to four weeks. So, we had to cut off any very late-ripening bunches. Some bunches had berries containing just six to nine degrees of potential alcohol, so the bain densimètrique was crucial. We were down 40% of volume after deselection. The quality of the tannins was very important. The lack of sunlight means transpiration is very different. You have less alcohol and higher acid, and you need to work on the structure to create creamier tannins.’ 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2025) Seamless and silky in the glass, with superb balance, the 2024 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is one of the wines of the vintage. All the elements are so well balanced, always a sign of a superior vintage at this address. Floral notes, spice, leather and mocha run through a core of layered, beautifully persistent dark red fruit. Harvest took place between September 17 and 25, during one of the rare windows with little rain. As always, Les Carmes is done with a high percentage of stems (52%), specifically 100% for the Cabernet Franc, 50% for the Merlot and 20% for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging is 70% new oak barrels, 19% 18HL foudre and 11% amphora. New oak is already very nicely integrated, another sign of a superb vintage. The 2024 is a brilliant effort by the team led by Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier. Drink 2034-2054. 97-98 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2025) This is always an idiosyncratic wine. This year it’s stunning, with a unique floral aspect and excellent depth of pure blue fruit, mulberries, dried herbs and white pepper. So juicy and mouthwatering on the palate, with a medium to full body and fine tannins. There is a crystalized mouthfeel, but the tannins are fresh and well knit. This is already delicious, which indicates its superb balance. 48% cabernet franc, 29% cabernet sauvignon and 23% merlot. 94-97 Le Figaro (Mei 2025) «Comme une élégante robe de satin virevoltant dans une valse» Profond et voluptueux, doté d’un fruit sombre et juteux, le nez évoque une confiture mijotant doucement dans la cuisine de grand-mère. Une richesse accueillante, relevée d’un parfum entêtant de fleurs pleinement épanouies, soulignée d’une fraîcheur inattendue de sève et de pomme de pin. Comme une élégante robe de satin virevoltant dans une valse, la matière se déploie en bouche avec grâce et dynamisme. Épanouie, aérienne, puis gagnant en intensité, elle attire tous les regards. La finale, subtilement amère sur le grué de cacao, saline et salivante, incite à y revenir encore et encore. Un style plus fin et élancé que dans d’autres millésimes, avec une acidité vive, mais une profondeur intacte. 98-99 Yves Beck – beckustator.com 96 Decanter.com 96-97 Alexandre Ma 96-98 Colin Hay – the drinks business 95 Jean-Marc Quarin – quarin.fr 95-97 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com 94 Jane Anson – janeanson.com 94-97 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com 94-96 Jef Leve 19,5/20 Weinwisse Les Carmes Haut BrionSinds 2012 maakt Les Carmes Haut Brion schitterende wijnen, met 2016 en 2018 als voorlopige benchmarks. Een anecdote: het is de enige Grand Cru Classé met een postcode in Bordeaux stad: 33000. Hij werd in december 2010 gekocht door de immobiliënmakelaar Patrice Pichet voor la Patrimoniale Foncière Pichet. Deze initiële aankoop van 7,6 hectare was de duurste transactie ooit in de geschiedenis van Bordeaux. Ondertussen is 25,5 hectare in bezit en sinds 2015 gebruiken ze nieuwe installaties gebouwd door designer Philippe Starck en architect Luc Arsène-Henry. De encépagement is atypisch voor Pessac Léognan: 41% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc en de rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Régisseur Guillaume Pouthier kwam over van bij Chapoutier en Stéphane Derenoncourt en Simon Blanchard zijn consulenten. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||