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 | 2020 Ch. Canon - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 150,00 (€ 181,50) |
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Canon 2020 is een wereldwonder en een waar paradepaard. Dit is zo perfect als maar kan. Diep robijnrood schittert in het glas, vooraleer een breed, rijkelijk palet de bovenhand neemt na een neus van vitale tonaliteiten van viooltjes en pruimpjes, chocolade en rode kersjes. Canon koppelt met gemak intensiteit en fraîcheur met zijn lichtvoetig, calcaire accent. De cashmere van ultra verfijnde tannine drapeert de kern van stralend rijp fruit. Florale tonaliteiten sublimeren getoaste eiktoetsen tot in de complexe, minutenlange finale. We sommen deze verleider op als volgt: zacht, rijkelijk rijp en aromatisch speels. Complex en verbluffend ook in zuiverheid en fraîcheur. Verfijnd, lang en evenwichtig. 68% Merlot en 32% Cabernet Franc met een élevage van 18 maand op 50% nieuwe eik. Ronduit excellent! De scores spreken boekdelen. IN DE PERS 100 Wiliam Kelley - robertparker.com (April 2023) The brilliant 2020 Canon looks set to surpass both the 2019 and 2016 as this estate's finest wine since the post-war period, though like many of the best 2020s, it will require more patience than its 2019 counterpart. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with notions of exotic spices and iris, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with vibrant acids and beautifully polished, chalky tannins. Pure and precise, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish. This beautifully constructed wine communicates the essence of this superb limestone terroir, and it will be worth a special effort to track down and cellar. Drink 2030-2065. In the last few years, this sleeping giant has well and truly reawakened, and the 2020 vintage represents the finest Canon produced since the early 1960s. Extensive replanting between 1996 and 2003, overseen by Audebert's predecessor, John Kolasa, saw some 50% of the estate's 22 hectares replaced. The fact that these vines are now arriving at full maturity surely goes some way to accounting for Canon's contemporary renaissance. Now, the team is working on restructuring the rest, combining massal selections and clones. Viticulture is thoughtful, with cover crops across the estate, and the terroir itself is relatively homogeneous: solid limestone covered by some 0.25 to 0.7 meters of clay, with a more or less uniform exposition on Saint-Émilion's plateau. There's also one small parcel in the town itself and another by Berliquet. Today, the vineyard is planted with about 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and there are no plans to radically alter that. Winemaking privileges finesse over power, though a certain richness and texture can be taken for granted with a site like this, and maturation is in 50% new oak (mostly from Taransaud, Demptos, Sylvain and Quintessence). Today, the focus is on increasing precision and refinement, rather than revolution. And well it might be, for why change a winning team? 97 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Canon, bottled in May 2022, has an exquisite bouquet that stops you in your tracks. Breathtaking delineation and focus, taut and linear, yet with ample fruit, this unabashedly exudes its propitious terroir. The palate is delectably creamy on the entry with fine salinity, vibrant and tensile, with a very persistent finish. This Canon ranks amongst the finest overseen by the team in recent years. Chapeau. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2026-2055. 96-98 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Canon nailed it this year, the best since the benchmark 2015/2016 vintages. It has one of those bouquets that stops the clock thanks to its breathtaking delineation and focus, fragrant black cherries, bilberry, shucked oyster shell and crushed rock aromas. It is cool, calm and collected. The palate possesses exquisite definition, armed with simply crystalline red fruit matched with a perfect silver bead of acidity. There is tangible tension from the start and it fans out gloriously toward the pixelated finish. This brilliant Canon should offer 20–30 years of drinking pleasure, probably more. Chapeau! 2026 - 2055. 100 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Februari 2023) The 2020 Canon is a wine of mind-blowing purity and nuance. It has been nothing less than thrilling on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. Intensily saline and chalky, the 2020 possesses spellbinding finesse and nuance. Redtoned fruit, crushed rocks, white pepper, rose petal and mint all come alive in the glass, buttressed by clean saline notes that extend the mid-palate into the finish. There is simply nothing like great Canon. And the 2020 is unquestionably a great Canon. Drink 2030-2070. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Canon is a gorgeous, sophisticated wine. Silky and soaring, Canon is vertical in build, with a real sense of explosive energy that give the wine its shape. Rose petal, lavender, mint, spice and ripe red/purplish berry fruit all meld together effortlessly. The 2020 is an especially airy, understated Canon. I can't wait to see how it ages. 2035 - 2060. 100 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (Februari 2023) Stunning, grab-a-friend, insanely good wine. The structure and tannic grip manage to be both barely there and tightly controlling, giving form and space for the raspberry, blueberry and pomegrante fruits to crowd in the palate, followed by oyster shell salinity, pummice stone scrape and electic points of mandarin peel and lemon grass. Finished with pure no messing about juiciness. 50% new barrels, 3.53ph. Harvest 4 September to 23 September. 50% new oak, 40hl/ha yield. Thomas Duclos consultant, Nicolas Audebert director. 98-100 Jane Anson – decanter.com (Mei 2021) This is intense, structured and concentrated yet with an abundance of violet and peony notes that curl up through the tannins, combining halfway through the palate with blueberry, raspberry, tobacco, gunsmoke and sculpted, precise pulses of chalk minerality. There is just so much to talk about with this wine, but the overall impression is of dozens of carefully crafted elements that steal up on you. It's hard not to be convinced by its success - and as ever with Canon you are in no doubt as to how well it will age. Gorgeous. 50% new barrels. 3.53pH. Harvest 4 September to 23 September. 50% new oak. A yield of 40hl/ha. Could go up after tasting in bottle, a potential 100 points. 98-100. Drinking Window 2027 – 2050. 98-100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – robertparker.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Canon is a blend of 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Franc, aging for 18 months in French oak, 50% new. It weighs in with 14.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.53. Deep garnet-purple colored, it bursts from the glass with vivacious notes of Morello cherries, redcurrant jelly, wild blueberries and black raspberries, plus hints of powdered cinnamon, clove oil, star anise and dusty red soil. The medium to full-bodied palate is an exercise in grace, delivering exquisitely ripe, finely pixilated tannins and bold freshness to support the tight-knit black, red and blue fruit layers, finishing long with loads of exotic spices and mineral sparks. An exhilarating triumph! “To be honest, we didn’t manage anything. That terroir at Canon is insane,” said Technical Director Nicolas Audebert. “It is incredible how it is always the terroir that brings back that freshness. We harvested a little earlier this year. And during the heat, we tried to protect the berries, with techniques I was using in South America to protect the bunches. But in the end, it is the typicity of that limestone that comes through. It is the backbone of the wine. This terroir also comes in earlier—the grapes just motor through. If we had waited 10 more days, it would be completely different. The wine has no excess—this is very important for us. We are not being extreme one way or the other. We look for ripeness and freshness. With the limestone, the vine never stops. The roots take the freshness and can handle these extremes. It is worth remembering that Canon has a southwest exposure, giving that little bit of extra ripeness. Also, I need to mention our work effort. We worked right through August. You know, usually everyone in France takes their holidays in August. Now, our team takes their holidays in July. We cannot wait around in August. Picking date completely makes what you are.” 98-99 James Suckling – jamessuckling (April 2021) Wow. This is really exceptional with super density of fruit that remains clear and agile. Blackberries, currants, violets and spice, as well as some chalk and salt. It really goes on for minutes. Best of the trilogy? 96-98 Jeb Dunnuck – jebdunnuck.com (Mei 2021) The 2020 Château Canon is another brilliant wine in a long line of brilliant wines from this incredible team and consistent estate. Coming from the upper plateau (unquestionably one of the finest terroirs on the upper plateau) and 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Franc, it offers a perfumed, ethereal nose of red and blue fruits, violets, white flowers, and unsmoked tobacco. With riveting purity, full-bodied richness, flawless balance, and a great, great finish, it’s going to push the upper limits of my scale. The tannins here are incredible as well, and this beauty should drink well for 20-30 years. Hats off to technical director Nicolas Audebert and his team for another insanely good wine. 17,5/20 James Lawther MW – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2021) 68% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample. Refined and discreet. Delicately perfumed, berry-fruit aromas. Gentle attack then builds and persists, the tannins so fine as to be inconspicuous. No exaggeration but a depth and presence that reflects the potential. Drink 2028 – 2045. 96-98 Jeff Leve – winecellarinsider.com (Mei 2021) Aromatically, this is off the hook with flowers, black, red and blue fruits, licorice, black raspberry, forest leaf, wild cherries and crushed rocks. With polished silk and velvet textures, the wine balances weight, depth, energy and concentration. The layers of perfectly ripe, sweet, fresh, red and black fruits keep on coming. On the palate the wine is both concentrated and weightless, making this is far too easy to drink. The seamless finish delivers length and purity that goes on for more than 60 seconds. This is as good as the famous 2015, and by the time it is in bottle, it could be even better. The wine blends 68% Merlot with 32% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% ABV pH 3.53 98 Ella Lister – lefigaro.fr (April 2023) - «Extraordinaire de complexité» Le nez est d'un raffinement onirique, extraordinaire de complexité, où tournoient des arômes d'iris, poudrés, d'encens, de fruits rouges, de cacao frais... En bouche la texture crémeuse, limpide, fraîche, donne un sentiment de lévitation, comme si un voile de soie tournoyait dans les airs, avant une finale à la fois fraîche et pleine de gourmandise. Quelle fraîcheur et délicatesse étonnantes pour un millésime chaud. 98-99 lefigaro.fr (Mei 2021) 98-100 Yohan Castaing - anthocyanes.fr (Mei 2021) 98-99 Terre des Vins (Mei 2021) 97-98 Bettane & Desseauve (Mei 2021) CanonCanon is een Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé die zijn sporen verdiende in een ver verleden. De aankomst in 1996 van de broers Wertheimer werd een kantelmoment. De eigenaars van Chanel pasten Haute Couture toe: vandaag is een typische Canon extreem elegant, fijn en complex. De wijngaard werd gaandeweg uitgebreid van 20,5 tot 34 hectare (31 in productie), na de aankoop van Curé Bon la Madeleine (plateau, argilo-calcaire) en Matras (de zuid-zuidwestelijke helling en pied de côte ten Zuiden). John Kolasa en nu Nicolas Audebert zetten orde op zaken. Twintig jaar “volstond” om Canon er weer helemaal te doen “staan”. Canon is vandaag the talk of town (in Bordeaux en tot ver daarbuiten) zeker sinds de legendarische 2015, 2016 en 2018. Er werd 70% Merlot en 30% Cabernet Franc aangeplant op een densiteit tussen 6.500 en 7.200 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard was 30 jaar in 2018. De bodem bestaat uit kalk onder een dunne laag klei op het plateau en zandering klei op de helling. AudebertNicolas Audebert is een wijnmaker van formaat en een tovenaar. Hij bouwde zijn carrière uit bij Champagne Krug en Cheval des Andes in Argentinië voordat de gebroeders Wertheimer hem aanstelden als opvolger van John Kolasa sinds 2015 op Château Canon, de Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, en Château Rauzan Ségla, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé Margaux. Zijn “coup d’essai” werd een “coup de maître”: zijn magische Canon 2015 is nu al de legende ingegaan. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||